Stanley

We used to do this a lot, mostly after drinking, and usually in pickup trucks.

The gas tank's coming out for a clean-up so I checked the expansion/evap tank, the hoses were kinked or otherwise bad except a big new braided one the PO put out some bucks for but didn't bother to clamp. Anyway I want to keep the evap tank but upgrade the tank venting. Don't like the lil line going to the flow valve - if it's working it needs some vac before it pulls air. It's not venting - there's a big difference (watching clear fuel filter) when the gas cap's on or off. Have 73 with early SU's and K&N's. Can I just hook up the lil tank per stock (good references in these forums) except take the top air intake line (with a small filter) somewhere else? Where would be a good place to run it ? Don't want fumes venting in the engine bay if possible.

My 73 didn't have a shroud, maybe it was removed. Somehow the freeway is more likely to be a parking lot on really hot days. I put the carbon fiber shroud from MSA. It interfered with the pulley for the ex-smog pump pulley so I modified it with a rasp. Then it was a little weak so I built it up with more carbon fiber so it's nice and solid. Still overheating - turned out to be a small eroded area on the head + bad head gasket. I take some hot weather drives, 99 deg F. at 4:30 AM in Blythe - so I went the whole route: shroud, new head and steel comp gasket, the shroud, oil cooler, flush engine, big aluminum radiator, BRE type air dam, remove plastic air vent intake for more cool air. Up the mountain last month at 85 mph, 105 degrees, temp at 185 the whole way - cool runnings.

Well, now I'm not sure. By the way, if anyone's planning some bodywork, but doesn't have much experience, better practice on a junker first. I used to work in a body shop, didn't learn much cause it was a lousy body shop. Learned one thing though - it's easy to mess up a car if you're not good at it. I agree the first step in a great paint job is the hammer & dolly, especially if it's like glossy black with tons of clear. Saw a black 57 chevy like a mirror - no distortions...

Saw a 240z at the MSA show 2 years ago that looked very much like the orange Z in jackboxxx's reply. The owner told me it was Monza Sunset, metalflake I think. Very nice. Maybe the one in the photo was sprayed more than one color. When you see the color you love, you'll know. Last year a kid who just got her license hit my fender, the shop couldn't match the orange so I got to pick a color. Wanted close to stock but a bit custom. Orange-brown metalflake - no regrets, and the engine bay still looks right.

So, set it with the gauge, check with the meter. Only, never seem to get it on the tip on the cam, always a little on side or the other which is why I use the dwell meter. Obviously I'm not a "natural born mechanic" or it would usually land on the tip (and my screwdriver would stay centered on screws). Could loosen the plugs, and turn the engine from the pulley but then I'd have to torque them again to check with the meter, and repeat if it was still off. Good thing this chore is only every year or two - at least it's set ok for now.

Takes me forever (maybe 10 trial and error attempts) to get the dwell within a couple degrees of where I want it - about 35 to 40 - say 38 deg. Using a meter. To get it right I have to move the point set an invisable (to me) amount. I use a screwdriver against the pin in the oval hole. Is there a better way? maybe a homemade tool, or some old mechanic's trick?

73 Z, 136000 mi. Leaked a little til I put teflon tape on the oil pan plug and torqued the pan bolts. Also tightened the trans cooler line clamps, and torqued trans pan bolts. Saw some oil by a front cover bolt that didn't drip to the ground though- need to torque those.

FSM says clean the carb suction piston & chamber every six months. Had Z for 6 years and finally did it - way less work than I thought it would be. Lots of goop in there. Faster response now. Also adjusted the carbs. Wish I had a meter to put in the tailpipe like at the dyno. FSM says after initial setting, move the idle adjusting nuts 1/8 turn up or down til the idle is best - couldn't tell any difference. Runs OK though. That's the good. The bad: set the fasteners for the K&N's on the lip at the rear of the hood, forgot to get them when I went for a test drive - a chrome acorn rolled down to the end and disappeared forever into the body. Never do that.

The dire deed is done. "Transistor fuel pump" by Jidosha Kiki., Ltd. is outa there. Did I really say 3 minutes? Good thing too, that lower hose to the tank was garbage, ready to let go in about 5 places. Wiggled it slightly and it broke. The upper one, now hooked to tank, was ok, replaced I guess, why didn't they change the lower one? Says on there to change the filter every 12000 miles. Check that hose, people.

3 weeks ago at S.I.R. in Tucson was my first legal race, so I'm no expert. To me it's all about testing the car (subtract reaction time), going fast and having fun. Also, there's a community. My first run reaction was worse than yours, the second was near perfect (beginners luck) and the last one I red-lighted. I've got a 240 with JATCO 3-speed too. Brakes on, stomp on the gas when the 2nd staging light comes on, let off the brakes when the third yellow light comes on. Shift at exactly the right time, whenever that is. There's some practice trees on the internet. There's some in-depth articles about reaction time, but they're mainly for pro racers. See you out there.

my z blew out an Enterprise (don't get those) 2 weeks ago on the I-10. After checking the reviews got a set of Falken ZE-912's for about $412 out the door at America's. They're 195/65/14's. They're sticky, no more 2-wheel drift on that s-curve on ramp. Now I want to autocross for some reason. Car sits about 3/8" lower - noticeable first time. Speedo's optimistic - there's a calculator link in these forums. Gas milage probably worse, 0-60 and 1/4 mile et's probably better, top end probably worse unless your cam comes on at top end but I've never gone over 110 anyway. I like em. Maybe no good if you drive a lot - some report problems after 10 thou...

Replaced the original exaust in the 73 automatic last summer; wanted to see the diff, so timed about six zero to 60 runs with a stopwatch, best time was 9.43. Put a 2 1/4" pipe and turbo muffler, ran a 8.34 first time next day. That's about 12% faster. BTW, did a dyno run last month - I was shifting too late.

Found the fuses, one with blue/white wires and one with red/white. Fuses looked ok, check them later. Should be able to check continuity - might need the ignition on if it goes through a relay. Spent a half hour under the car staring at the pump and all the hoses til it dawned on me that bypassing it is a three-minute job, even for me. Will do that tomorrow when I get some new clamps. Did notice a hose next to the filler hose, a vent I guess, that was krinked where it went on top of the tank, probably no big deal. Thanks, zKars.

No money for pump or mechanic right now, so guess I'll do what my dad suggests: take the old elect. one off, clean it out, shine up the contacts etc and try it again. Saw a diagram of a setup with a switch but should probably ask advice from Mallory, when I get paid. Guess the Civics will win til it's sorted out.

Had a miss at 4500 rpm 2 weeks ago at S.I.R. dragstrip. Repeated it (with backfire) at 4500 in 2nd, flat-out from stop a few times around here. Car (mostly stock 73 240z, automatic, early SU's, euro dist, clean balance tube, best run 15.68 sec) runs strong otherwise, never misses at 4500 or higher when cruising. After checking other posts here and elsewhere, figure I might get a Mallory comp70 LP to replace the one by the tank (which doesn't seem to work - no sound by broomstick method). Yes, checking ignition, filters, will switch to NGK, etc., but might still need help with g-force on gas in small stock fuel lines. Would like to hook it up with a switch to use for drag racing only, mechanical one seems fine for everyday (hard) driving, but afraid to race until it's fixed. I'm not great with wiring, relays, etc, but my mechanic is. Anybody have ideas/ experience for this? Stan - 39 forever

Im new member Stanley. Got 73 z automatic for cheap about 4 yrs ago. It made some bad clunking noises. The seats & suspension were shot. Fixed all that. Euro dist made it run good. Blown head gasket was good thing - new head gave me a bunch of low end torque. Have the good SU's. Still plenty to work on - lots to learn. Hope to get it like Mr. K would like....