Stanley

Here's a link to a video about photo matching with SU: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hSyw6bobpc&index=35&list=PL190C90DCE62242C9 Like you said, it's probably easier to do simple model from scratch. Also, looks like I was relying on old information when I said you can't do 3D printing with SU. However, SU model needs to be converted to STL file. http://blog.sketchup.com/sketchupdate/stls-3d-printing-and-out-sketchup-two-clicks I should study this stuff too.

OK, it is the angle of the picture you're using. Tracing walls on a floor plan and pulling them into 3D is easy, but making a SU drawing from a perspective view or photo is a more advanced technique. SU has a video about how to do it, but it might be better to learn some easier stuff first.

You need to have a closed polygon in one 2D plane to pull it up. Won't work if there's any gaps in the polygon, or any lines that don't quite connect. Sometimes I draw something I think is in one plane, but when I look at it from another direction it's out of plane (warped). There's some Z cars in the SU 3D warehouse.

SketchUp is an excellent program, but it uses surfaces. For 3D printing you need a solid modeling program. I messed around with ViaCad 2D/3D for a while, and recently bought ViaCad Pro, on sale for about $175. It will do 3D printing, supposedly. Haven't done much with it. Sketchup seems to be more brilliantly thought-out.There are a lot of other programs out there, but I haven't tried any. To do a 3D model in SU, of framing for a house, for example, I take a 2D floor plan, import it to SU, dimension it, and pull it out until the dimensions are correct. Then trace the walls over it. Then you can pull it up into 3D.

With fan shroud, aluminum radiator, new water pump and fan clutch, it shouldn't be overheating, at least due to problems with the cooling system. Are you getting a good flow of coolant through the radiator? It's easy to check. Remove radiator cap and let the car idle. The thermostat should open at 160F to 180F. After it opens you should see a strong flow of water. If not, test the thermostat. Nissan thermostat is best. If the thermostat is OK, might need to flush the engine. Are you losing coolant? Do you have a coolant recovery system?

The main problem changing the fluid is about half of it will be in the pan and the rest will stay in the torque converter. However it's easy to get it all out: 1. jack it up, pull the pan (carefully so the fluid doesn't spill), and remove the fluid, clean or replace the screen and clean the pan, and adjust the bands if they haven't been done recently. Adjusting the bands is way easier than it sounds, but you need a small torque wrench, since it's supposed to be torqued "exactly" what it says in Haynes/Chilton. 2. Replace the pan and pull the "out" cooler line off the radiator and direct it into a container. Run the engine about 20 seconds and it will pump the fluid out of the torque converter into the container. 3. Hook the cooler lines back up, and put a little less trans fluid than book says. Then start the car and let it idle in drive or reverse for about 30 seconds until the torque converter fills up. You can't drive until it fills up. Then put a little more fluid to get it the right level on the stick. While you're at it, check the little hose from the hard vacuum line that connects to the trans modulator. Mine was old and fell off frequently, resulting in crappy trans performance. Put a new vac hose, now it's fine. I run synthetic ATF (145 K miles on the car) and the trans feels great. Edit: Use jackstands or preferably ramps for safety !

You could see if there's gas in the float bowls first; if so that would rule out some stuff. If the car won't start, the usual method of pulling a hose off a float bowl banjo bolt and directing it into a plastic bottle to check the flow with the engine running (procedure in the FSM) won't work, but the method suggested above should be OK. If you have SU carbs, there's a vent on the float bowl lid. It's easy to see if there's gas in the float bowls: get the little plastic straw from a can of carb cleaner or WD40 and poke it through the vent so it rests lightly on top of the float. If there's gas you can push the float down about 1/2 inch, otherwise you can't since the float would be bottomed out. If you have the flattop carbs maybe they have something similar, don't know. I think they have a built-in sight glass to see fuel level. I'd think cranking the engine would run the fuel pump enough to start it, but maybe not. Might need to siphon some gas into the float bowls to start if they both went dry.

I haven't seen any other CAD models with as much detail, but I guess all automakers do the whole car in CAD/CAM nowadays. Drawing something that looks like a car is nothing like building a car with CAD, like this. I'd also like having a CAD section on this site. According to the last post in "S30 in 3D" the links have expired, although The 40 minute video on YouTube is still there. I just read through all ten pages; the main thing I learned is how much I don't know. But the model is pretty far along. Looks like the hardest parts are already done. Motorman7's engine looks good. The dimensioned 2D drawings in post #141 are very helpful. Also, FSM has a lot of drawings that could be dropped into 2D cad, pulled out to a convenient reference like wheelbase and traced. I say let's finish it up ! Not much experience in 3D, except SketchUp. I bought the new CAD for detailing structural steel connections, but this seems like way more fun.

Thanks, couldn't remember S30 in 3D. I think my new CAD imports solidworks, will see if it works when the DVD gets here. Not a student, so can't get Solidworks educational, full version not in my budget. I use free 2D version of Solid Edge for drafting, but the full version with 3D is like 5 thou. SketchUp 3D Warehouse also has a bunch of Z cars, not sure if they have engines and can be edited. As I recall, someone posted they were working on the engine, in the s30 in 3D thread. To do the headers, would need an engine bay with frame, steering and brakes stuff, and engine with SU's, first. Don't think it ever got that far along.

Sorry, not a real answer (low-tech me), but why not just find the minimum idle setting (by trial and error) that your AC system needs to work at idle, and set it at that ? Then if you don't plan to use AC for a while, it's easy enough lower the idle screws the same on both carbs, 1/4 to 1/8 turn or whatever.

The one by a member in Russia. Has a nifty super-detailed model. Spent an hour looking here and on google, can't find it anywhere. Bought me a new CAD, Viacad pro, got 30% off for BF. Probably not good enough to open the model he posted, but worth a try. Want to try to CAD some freaky headers, mostly as a learning experience.

I counted each of the 1.5 coils at top and bottom as one coil. Micrometer is harbor freight digital. It's ok, but last digit is iffy and it needs to be zeroed after each measurement. I'll check O.D. and wire dia. of #23's with good Japanese mic in next few days. It's .033 in. not .33 in wire dia. I think wire dia. for the reds is listed in SU literature.

Ordered a set of red springs (and yellow set) from APT last week, and installed them today. Had them side by side with the ones in the carbs and took some measurements (with a cheapy micrometer I keep in the car) and a 3 oz. fishing sinker. I'm calling the original ones #23's, but I don't really know. They look identical to each other, and seem to be in good shape. ----Unloaded L,----Coil O.D.-- No. coils-- wire dia.,--L w/ 3 oz. wt. #23's---3.95 in.,-- .95 in.,--- 30,-------0.33 in.,------- 2" red's-- 6 in.,---- .95 in.,---- 35,-------0.035 in.,------ 3.875 in. The difference in wire dia. probably due to crappy micrometer. Length with the 3 oz. sinker on it is only good to about 1/8". So took it out for a short test ride. They worked. No other changes. Now I can stomp on the gas without it leaning out and popping through the carb. Surprisingly (well, maybe not, if you think about it) my idle rpm dropped a couple hundred revs. So I set it back where it was, without adjusting the mix. Probably still need to change or modify the SM's, but seems like a big step in the right direction.

I might have asked to get a motorcycle first, then go for the Z when that gets rejected. But I think your parents are right to be concerned about safety. Some days it seems like all the crazies and drunks are out on the road. I was T-boned by a red-light runner, years ago. Ever since then, I tend to look both ways going through an intersection, even though I have a green light. When you're stopped at a red light and it turns green, be careful. Frequently someone can't make it through on the yellow, and runs it. Sometimes it's impossible to see a red light runner due to a vehicle in the next lane. I've always tried to leave plenty of room between me and the car ahead, but after getting rear-ended twice last year I've changed my driving. Now I leave even more room ahead, so if I have to slow down I don't have to brake as hard, and the car behind me has more time to react. Also, if someone behind me is following too close, I speed up or change lanes to get away from them. Playing games like "need for speed" is good training, in my opinion. You will learn how to handle a wild skid, for example, and if you crash it's just a video game.

Did the white paper towel test at the tailpipe, when first starting the car for the day. It immediately got the black spatters that show overly rich mix. Took a short drive to the grocery store, about 4 blocks away. When I got back, I did the paper test again at idle, it was perfectly clean, not a single spatter. Normal, or something that needs to be tuned out ? I don't use the choke when starting. Using SM needles; had to set the mix fairly rich to get it to run at low RPM's. Guess that's because the SM's (like other British needles) are .099 at station 1 whereas N-27's etc. are .095. That makes them lean at idle (stations 1 & 2 according to SU publications). So when you adjust the mix for idle they get extra rich at mid range and top end. But on my car, they lean out if too much throttle is applied, too fast. I can't set them any leaner or it fouls the plugs. Mix adjustment is tricky. Top end miss is gone with the SM's, and I'm getting some nice low end dig at part throttle, but I feel like I've still got a lot of tuning to do. If I polish down the idle sector, then the idle settings will change and top end might get too lean again. Stock displacement 240Z, K&N's, velocity stacks and 2.25" exhaust, non-stock JDM head, so maybe that's why stock N-27's were way too lean. According to official SU literature, just putting K&N's often requires a needle change. Rambling here, but recently read a (translated) thread on a Japanese site about drilling out the nozzles to use British needles. Read similar on Australian sites. good idea?

First time I've seen extractors like that on a LHD Z car. Looks and sounds great. Guess the hood wouldn't close.

Suggest shifting crisply to prolong life of the clutch. It seems like it's easier on components to depress and release the clutch slowly when shifting, but it wears the clutch out faster, especially if it's already worn. Probably doesn't need to be said, but keeping the gas pedal down before releasing the clutch, as in "launch" or "getting scratch in second" is horrible for a worn out clutch. I wore out a couple of clutches in my Chevy truck before I changed my driving habits (don't ride the clutch), and went with an extra heavy duty clutch.

A lot of manuals on that site, and painless download. The C210 manual there is for Skyline with L24 engine with single downdraft carb, maybe AU only. Didn't see any head designation numbers. Nothing on the L20et C211 engine with Y70 head, which is on various other cars besides Skylines. I see they have the L20/L24 engine manual which is for 240z, among others. No publication date on it, strangely. I have 1972 L20/L24 manual which looks the same, have to check carefully, though; the 72 manual might be updated.

Anyone have a link? English preferred but whatever. My Z has C211 top end; wondering about some things. This link from last year is no good: http://japaneseclassicimports.com/jci/c211-skyline-1979-update-factory-service-manual/

Found this on a Japan site: scroll down for the table https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.oppama-garage.jp/nissan_model_fairladyz_1.html&prev=search

Here's a link from September: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52317-1972-fsm/page-1 The very first file uploaded is section EF which has the tune-up procedure for SU's starting on page EF-21. The whole section is about 50 pages so easy to put it on a thumb drive and take it to the printer. Then you can have it sitting on the fender while you do the tune-up. By the way, the FSM lists maximum fuel pressure to be about 4.3 psi. If it's much over that, the pressure could overpower the needle valves, causing fuel to overflow from the float bowl vents. It might be a good idea to monitor the vents (by running hoses from the vents to a vented catch can, or some other method) so you'll know if they overflow. I don't think it's a fuel pressure problem, unless it tested low (under 3.2 psi). Don't want to argue with a Porsche mechanic, though. He should know. My stock mechanical fuel pump puts out 3.9 to 4.0 psi (with no return line, and filter by tank only).

Here's another one that I can't figure. A few months ago I tried to look up an architect as a favor for someone. IIRC it was on "whitepages". I didn't sign in there or give (knowingly) them any of my information. Also, I was not signed in to my yahoo email at that time. A day or two later I emailed my cousin asking for my other cousin's phone number. Then I got an email from "whitepages" saying they found Clarissa (my cousin, not the architect). Damn them.

If you don't have a PCV valve, the lower breather tube has to go somewhere. I've got one (a little strainer with a clear plastic bowl) between the breather tube and the PCV valve. It picks up about a tablespoon of oil per year. Don't want oil gunking up my PCV valve. Also have some clear fuel-resistant hoses going from the vents on the SU bowls to a catch can (vented plastic Sriracha bottle), so I'll know if they overflow. So far so good, but I can see how they might on a steep hill. So far they overflowed about one teaspoon in two years. It evaporated in the catch can. My floats are intentionally set a little high. Also have the coolant overflow from the recirculating tank going to a vented Sriracha bottle. So far nothing in it. Haven't gone up the mountain in summer since installing it, though. Catch cans required for race tracks as far as I know.

After cleaning the domes a few months ago, while setting the carbs, before starting the engine, I noticed the pistons could be raised with very little finger pressure, and realized I hadn't put any oil in the dampers. Put what I thought was the right amount in each (kind of hard to see the level) but one went up easier. I put some more oil in that one, and it was harder to lift. A few drops more and it seemed to take the same pressure to lift as the other carb. So I got the idea that oil level, as well as viscosity, affects how the pistons rise in response to vacuum (in front of the throttle plates) So, is that correct, or am I missing something ? Also, is matching finger pressure an acceptable way to set relative damper oil level ? Depending on the light, it can be hard to see if the oil level lines up with the grooves on the damper stalk.

Maybe it's better not to think of it as looking from the top of the engine, since that would be backwards. An ordinary nut or bolt (tightens) when it's turned clockwise; the mix nuts are the same. Something wrong with the tune-up sequence. It's an iterative process. Don't get them balanced and then change the mix nut settings and think you're done. The Ztherapy video example shows how to do it, but for me it was easier to follow the tune-up procedure in the FSM. The Porsche mechanic had it running perfect, right? If it was running good but you want to practice the tune-up, you could do this: 1. turn idle screw on each carb all the way in and write down the number turns (to nearest 1/8 turn) for each. Then put them back where they were. 2. turn mix nuts all the way up and write down number of turns for each to nearest 1/8 turn. Put them back exactly where they were. If your tune-up makes it worse just put everything back where it was. Once they're balanced I tend to make small adjustments based on performance, plug color, etc. without re-balancing. But it's easy to get it messed up, and forget the current setting if I don't write them down.