Stanley

Sounds dangerous unless the cars are slow enough that there's little chance of them getting out of control. Maybe that's what they want. Had a three-way stoplight race last summer, me in the Z against a Harley and a Ford Focus with loud pipes. Wasn't planned, we were in front row at the light, looked at each other, and all decided to go. Harley won, not by much, I tied with the Focus, but he had a carload. Way safer than what you're describing, since we didn't get over 60 MPH before slowing for the next light. Speed limit was 50.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/25857-rating-factory-240z-fuel-vent-hoses.html Some more reading.

Hope "throw it together as fast as possible" shows like this don't foster an attitude that workmanship doesn't matter. Seems like it would make a real race mechanic throw a wrench through the TV. Like seeing a swap that hasn't been done before, though. Since I've got a Chevy six (230) truck, I'd like to see the big six, 292, turbo'd and swapped in a (played) Z. They were for dump trucks, school buses, pulling trailers, etc. Plenty in junkyards for cheap. It was discussed on HybridZ, don't think anybody's done it yet. Wouldn't be much of a sports car, but maybe a drag car with huge slicks and drive train to take advantage of all that torque.

Had a stinky exhaust, no stink now (the '81 head designed to lower emissions might be helping). Also advance timing as far as possible with little or no ping, clean and lube the chokes, fresh points (dwell per FSM), cap, condenser, and rotor, clean and gap plugs. Maybe new needles and nozzles for good atomization of the gas. Did all that stuff, probably helps. If it's a smoker you might need rings, but it's a Datsun so probably not.

Suppose it was a non-stock ignition, MSD or CDI for example? Don't know how those are powered, but would those 16 GA wires still be OK?

Spoiler Alert: this is the ending. Drive safe - prevent forest fires!

Noticed my fuel pressure fluctuates a lot (up to 1.5 psi) when driving with a full tank. When it's half full it fluctuates a little, and when it's 1/4 full or less it's almost rock steady at 3.9 psi. Seem like the tank's not venting enough. Cleaned and tested the flow valve a while back, think it's OK but not sure. Not using a vented gas cap. Was able to blow through the line from the flow valve to the tank or wherever it goes, but it might be partly blocked with corrosion or something. Not using a return line, maybe it would work as a tank vent, unless there's something else I'm not seeing. Don't want to cause a gas smell. According to ZTherapy video, fuel pressure affects the A/F mix.

Didn't know the curves had names - my commentary would be limited to criticism of other driver, I expect. And even if it wasn't crowded I wouldn't go really fast, since I don't know the road. I play FSX, and love flying 10 feet above the ground, in the super-twisty Little Grand Canyon for example, never knowing which way it's going to turn next. In the real world it's heavier. Didn't understand that when I was a teenager, until some kids chased a ball onto the road where I was doing a hundred in a crappy ford station wagon. Hit the brakes, did a 360, didn't hit anybody, but it cooled my wheels a little. There's safer places to street race than Mulholland Drive.

Went up (North to South) Mulholland couple of years ago in the Z. Traffic was light but had to let a slow BMW roadster get way ahead, and play catch-up, to have any fun with the curves. Too much traffic to go very fast. Lots of twisty roads in the Hollywood hills but I drive slow when I have a job there, too much traffic. Kanan Dume Road, west of Malibu, is another nice one. Heard there's a 280Z in the movie.

I got a special AC pulley, selling it for $475. Put that on there and make 450 HP easy.

It's not easy to get the hose clamped to the hard line without a lift, so maybe use marine grade USCG fire-rated hose, with a liner to prevent ethanol from wrecking it. Expensive but you don't need much. Might only need to do it once.

Before having the rusty tank cleaned, I bought a length of 3/16" steel cable and tried to run that through the line. Only got it about halfway. Blocked off the end by the tank (partially) and filled the line with alcohol and blocked it completely, let it sit a while, then tried the cable again. Got a little further. Repeated that. Put one end of the line in the drill and spun it while working it back and forth, put more alcohol and repeated that. Finally got it clear. Hardest part is at the tank end where it turns and hooks to the rubber hose that connects to the tank. Might help to clear that end working from the tank end. Compressed air might help, didn't have that, though.

Drove out there yesterday to pick up an order. They said no show this year (so not to interfere with the San Diego show) but they'll have something in April. Hope they do the dyno sessions, time to check my tune again.

Maybe leak in exhaust manifold connections, or rusty header.

Stopped by Ace hardware and got some tapered rubber plugs, two for the 5/8" ID hose barbs, and two for the 3/4" hose barbs. Hope I won't need the corkscrew to remove them. Hate to say it, but also got a packet of Dorman caps just so I can drive until the my silicon caps from M-C get here. Will also get a stainless steel BSPT plug for the water outlet. If I looped it I'd still need to cap the 3/4" end on the tee where the manifold heater line used to hook up. Might solder a metal cap on that one, since it's no longer connected to anything. Didn't see how bad that cap (and the other caps) was until I uploaded that shot and checked it out on the computer. Probably saved me a call to the tow truck. Weather is warming up, so fixing the heater is moving down on the "to do" list.

Just checked Dorman website. They call them vacuum plugs and also heater bypass plugs. When you click on the heater bypass plugs it also calls them vacuum plugs.

Less than 6 months ago put these Dorman caps on the heater tee and head (to heater) coolant outlet. They're already shot. Guess I'll use some tapered rubber plugs with a silicon rubber cap from M-C (clamped over the plugs) instead, until I get the heater hooked up.

Wondering about that saucer-shaped thing on the side - a regulator?

Remember reading a post from someone with a Mallory 4070LP, makes 4 psi and has a nice bracket, as an alternative. I'm sticking with just the mechanical FP, seems like less to go wrong, although it's getting hard to find the stock type. Wonder why Nissan used the two different types of electric FP's? Isn't the electric FP for carbureted Nissan pickups from the 80's about the same? Maybe just put a metal can filter between the tank and the FP?

I always check the easiest things first. Vacuum leak (big or small whooshing sound from hoses and connections), plug condition and gap, points (and cap and rotor) condition, ignition timing and dwell. If all OK check air cleaner and carb mixture setting and balance. If that's all perfect you need a better advisor. When my truck was doing that it had a leaky vacuum hose.

Another problem with the stamped steel FP's, the hose barbs look like they're non-removable. So if you want to use AN fittings or tee in a hose with AN fittings for a fuel pressure gauge, you're out of luck. Couple months ago, saw an article online about Carter fuel pumps. It said Federal-Mogul, that previously owned Carter, had sold it because F-M is dumping all it's factories in countries with high wages (they said it differently, to sound better). Supposedly, the new owners of the Carter (USA) factory were keeping the employees and continuing to produce fuel pumps. So I went to my local independent auto parts store, told them I needed the old style pump, and they ordered a Carter M60107. When it showed up it was stamped steel type, in a Federal-Mogul box that said made in Japan. The parts man said I can bring in the old one to be rebuilt, though. Have an old Nikki so might do that. Also might email Carter about this topic if I can find their contact information.

Thanks, just ordered the Aisin at Rock Auto.

Time for a new WP. Parts at Nissan Gardena says it NLA. MSA says theirs are cast iron. Rather have aluminum. Any recommendations or bad ones to watch out for?

Thanks, here's a shot of the switch insides before cleaning it.

Just have mechanical fuel pump for now. Removed the electric one at the tank and put a filter there instead. The fuel rail is welded steel tube connected with a short length of fuel hose to a hose barb on the fuel pump. Right under the glass filter see where I capped the return line. Doesn't look great. The other hose from the mechanical fuel pump goes to a fuel pressure gauge under the glove box. Seems to me your idea is OK but I'm not the expert.