Stanley

Hell yes they're worth it IMHO. I'm running these with my SU's. Motorsport! Air Horn, 70-72 240Z S.U. Carburetors - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts They fit perfect in the K&N's. I noticed an improvement throughout my rpm range and don't think I imagined it. Had them before my first dyno run though. They're worth it just for the sound they make when you're revving it with the hood up. Oh yeah, certain race mechanics I know object to calling them air horns - they prefer the term velocity stacks.

Uncertainly not.

Not sure but I think my problem with disappearing oil was partly due to pushing the plunger down and pulling it up too fast - makes the oil slosh out. I think you're supposed to let the plunger sink on it's own, and lift it out super slow. In my case the disappearing oil syndrome seems to have more or less gone away on it's own, which makes me suspect my original observation. Still, it's a fact that you need to top off the oil from time to time. There's the Heisenburg (spelling?) theory about that, measurement affecting item being measured. Maybe it applies to SU carbs.

Japanese Classic Car Show / JCCS 2013 Just 10 more days....

Wondering about that left headlight.

Congratulations, I guess. Check out the search feature - there's a lot of good stuff on this site about starting a car that's been sitting a long time. Stuff like draining the tank, changing the old filters and hoses. Maybe it's better it didn't start right off. Don't want to go for a drive if the brakes don't work, or there's no oil, for example. I'm thinking the guy lied about some stuff, or maybe he didn't remember. Could have been twenty years instead of two. Alcohol's a hell of a drug. Stealing old batteries seems like a hard way to make a living. Those wires don't look too good. Maybe you could find a junked z somewhere and scrounge some wiring harnesses off that. You can download the factory service manual (FSM) and some wiring diagrams. Someone posted some color-coded wiring diagrams recently. You could get a mechanical fuel pump at autozone or somewhere and hook that up - might be easier. Gotta start somewhere....

Here's the one I have.Kicker Car Audio DX100 2 DX Series 2 Channel 100 Watts RMS Amplifier 08DX100 2 13034041123 | eBay They're made by Stillwater Designs, see Kicker.com. This model, DX100.2 has 40 watts per channel, it is superseded by a new one that has 60 watts/channel. They have line-level inputs for the speaker wires. Took me a while to find one, most of the amps for cars are way bigger. If you google small auto booster amps you'll see a bunch of different brands, and some jump starters. No idea which ones are best.

Can't find Castrol HD 30 wt for the last few months at Autozone, Pep Boys, or O'Reilly. They used to always have it. Anyone know what happened? Been using that in the summer for a while, figured it's good for long high speed trips where it's 110-115 F in the shade all day. I put 10W-30 in the winter but it's still hot.

There's a small booster amp (I got one at Pep Boys, didn't hook it up yet) that has 40 watts total IIRC, 4 channels with internal crossovers for the treble and bass, it's designed so you can hook the radio's audio frequency (speaker) wires to the inputs, should work with the stock radio according to the instructions (but maybe not as well as with radio frequency inputs). Only problem is the sensitivity and selectivity of the stock radio are kind of weak. Should be able to reduce distortion by turning the volume down on the radio and turning it up on the amp. I'm guessing I'll still have to keep messing with the tuner knob since the radio drifts off station - or maybe it's just that the push buttons don't always come back to the same place. Or both. 40 watts total must be better than the 3 watts or whatever the stock radio has. For some reason my big Sony blaster, that I sometimes run in the car off an inverter plugged into the lighter socket, picks up at least twice as many stations as the Hitachi. I doubt if a booster amp will cure that. Good experiment anyway.

Way off topic but the photo of your car shows what looks like a carbon fiber bumper - but MSA told me the ones they have don't fit on the 73's. Or did you just paint the steel one? Also wondering how the overrider bar is connected if the bumper is CF.

You mean on the floor behind the driver's seat? Anyway I noticed the heat under the mat on the driver side in front - got some insulating material with foil on both sides, at PEP Boys, cut it to fit under the seat and under the floor mat, seem to make a difference - can't feel the heat there anymore. Maybe I should remove it in the winter unless I get the heater working - it would only take a minute. The stuff comes in a roll about $20, enough for five Datsuns.

Motorsport! D.O.T. Approved H-4 Type Headlamp Kit, 70-83 Z&ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Says 71-72 but looks the same as the one on my '73 240 except no filthy cloth braid. The 1" pipe and the pcv valve are in the same places and same sizes (pretty sure) so why wouldn't it fit ? Might want to check where the emissions stuff was removed from the balance tube to make sure everything that was connected (not just bolted) to it is plugged with the right size and thread (BSPT) plugs so there's no vac leaks.

Transformer.

Might be time to give it a rest. I'd just sit back with a cold beer and some chips, and try again tomorrow.

Because of the tilt of the engine, and the front float bowl being in front of the nozzle while the rear bowl is rear of the nozzle, the level in the front bowl needs to be lower than in the rear bowl by 2 mm. This puts the fuel at the same level in at the top of the nozzles. That's why the ears on the front are longer by 2 mm. The FSM for 72 SU's just says 23 mm down from the underside of the lid. So 23 mm rear carb, 25 mm front carb for equal level at the nozzles. I guess you could go 21 mm rear, 23 front - I had trouble with the rear carb overflowing out the vent when I tried that, but can't say for sure it's wrong.

Wonder if there's a free or inexpensive viewer for the CAD's you're using so someone with little or no experience can zoom in, spin it around, etc. There may be free trial versions of those CAD's but by the time you learn the basics the trial period is up. Sketchup has a viewer, if I email someone a SU model I also send a link for the free viewer. Wish SU could look like this. BTW I measured the angle of the engine relative to the horizontal plane on the body at the L-shaped area under the doors at about one degree with a digital angle meter.

Thank you, I'll follow those leads as soon as I can. Swamped with work right now, hasn't happened for a couple years so can't complain.

The little cylinder filters, one inside of each banjo bolt, get them with longnose pliers and get them a good blast of carb cleaner. Also if your car has an electric fuel pump on the frame between the gas tank and the right rear wheel well, get a new filter for it from black dragon, wear some safety goggles, use a channelocks to unscrew the bottom of the pump (when the tank is about empty) and pop the new one in there. Doubt if it's really the problem but good to do anyway. Mine looked like no one ever changed it. Did ZTherapy do a complete rebuild including float valves, needles and nozzles, or did they just rebuild the carb bodies?

Anyone? I know the C211's (1980 to early 81?) Skylines aren't that popular or numerous, but I've seen some recently in magazines from car shows in Japan. Saw a thread about one from AUS one recently but nothing about engine. Can't find anything online about building the Y70's, other than Ozconnection's build thread which I studied. The insane midrange torque is great for an AT since it's only got 3 gears. How to keep that and get more top end? Feel like I might be sorry if I ditch this cam but I don't know.

Good point. Pike's hillclimb has some downhill sections though, along with flat and uphill sections. I've watched a lot of videos of that race. Seems like every year at least one car plummets off the road. Hope to drive it someday, why I was asking. Would like to be there for the race, just to watch. It's a hell of a race.

Keeping the speed down seemed to help me once, in the old chevy truck, heading South from Oregon on the coastal route. That's a long downgrade with curves. Smelled the brakes, felt them starting to fade. the truck tops out about 75 with the 230 and a 4 point something rear end. Got it stopped on a truck run-off and saw them glowing red. After they cooled off I took it real slow - 2nd gear with frequent stops, no proble When I got back did a full brake job on it. Another time in the truck, had a job in the Hollywood hills. Very steep narrow road with tight curves. Felt the brakes about gone at the top of a hill. Got out, tightened up the adjustment, brakes ok again. Wonder how a z with stock brakes will do on Pike's peak for example? Is it safe to go as fast as traffic, driving ability, and the road will allow, or is it necessary to use take it slow, use engine braking, or stop every 5 minutes or so for a cool-down? What brake mods would you need to really stand on the gas on the way down? How would a rally driver in a Z take that downhill if their brakes were stock, for the best time?

Have a fairly low mileage Y70 head/cam assembly on my 240z. It's all stock pretty sure. Stock cam. Don't know much about it but have some info from searches. Came stock on C211's Skylines, Cedric's and who knows what else. Changed the performance quite a bit - torque is strong from 3000 to 4600 rpm. Had it dyno'd, the torque is a straight line rather than a curve but it quits pulling at 5000 rpm. Read somewhere that's what the stock cam does. No plans to ever race it except once a year at the dragstrip. Got a pretty good ET last time, it's quicker than with the previous stock head, but top speed would be lower I expect. Plans for the bottom end are bore the 240 a little, or possibly go to destroked 280. Can't spend a lot. It's real good on the freeway as is, quick from 65 mph to 90 which is what you need. Know a mechanic who's recommending a cam. Wondering how the Y70 would do with the stock cam and a little head work. Or what cam and/or head work to keep that flat torque line but get a little more top end. Also what headers would be good with the Y70? I'm no expert but seems like longer, smaller primaries would be good for midrange torque. The z has an AT. Any information or links would be much appreciated. It will be a while until I can afford anything so please respond even if it's a year from now.

Was the Subaru a race car? Is that rich a mix what you want at high rpm? Also wondering about the big drop in AFR right at 3400 rpm.

Thanks guys, ordered them from Courtesy Nissan. Also got some points sets. They don't have the caps and rotors anymore. Got my euro distributor new from MSA back in 2006. It was $200. Haven't seen it in their online catalog for some time. Did see one advertised in a Japanese car mag recently, had a picture of a distributor and the words S-30 and euro in English, the rest in Japanese. Guess they're available there. It made a huge difference in my car, but then I'm comparing it to a worn out emissions-spec dual-point for the 73 AT's.