Stanley

Got this one. Some cracked plastic as you can see, though.

Maybe they say not to over-tighten it because they can be hard to get off. And the crappier ones have really thin metal so if you use an oil filter wrench it will twist up like a churro and spill oil all over the place.

17.1 sec in the quarter mile? Sometimes it's the driver not the car. Read Car and Driver's review from back in day, they ran the 1/4 in about 15.65 if I remember. About 1.5 sec faster, so they would have beat the 17.1 sec car by at least 10 lengths. They did say they revved it up to 6000 rpm before releasing the clutch.

Zero pressure = zero flow. The oil pressure gauge is after the filter so a clogged filter will reduce flow (and gauge oil pressure). That's why the filter has a bypass - so you still have some lubrication if the filter is clogged. And that's why your oil pressure at idle goes up when you change the oil and put a new filter (if you waited to long to change it). My stock gauge shows a little over 1/4 when idling cold, a little under 1/4 idling hot, and a little over 1/2 for normal driving.

Can't hurt to try a new oil filter.

Good to know. I know a mechanic that can remove or replace a Z dash in about 5 minutes, but I figure it would take me about 5 days.

Heard Mallory was ok because they are assembled by older children. Seriously, if their stuff is going downhill it's bad news. A lot of professional racers have used nothing but Mallory for many years.

Found a nice SW 2 5/8" vacuum gauge that matches the stock gauges almost perfect. Since the clock doesn't work that would be the place for it. I like the stock lighting and dimmer knob. Any chance of using the stock light or modding the Stewart-Warner light to match the other gauges? Also, is it possible to get at the clock by removing the glove box liner and not the dash? I read the link from zhome.com about gauges - the photo of the back of the stock gauge makes keeping the stock gauge light seem unlikely, not sure though.

The MSA Shroud fit my stock 240z radiator, except I couldn't get the AC pulley off and had to file a small area at the bottom. When I put the MSA aluminum 3-row (looks just like the champion brand, including the brackets and holes) had to drill a new hole (or enlarge the existing hole) in the angle brackets on each side to make the shroud fit right. No big deal, took about 10 minutes to measure it up and drill. Also beefed up the shroud with some extra fiberglass on the inside.

Z_lis my 73 had exhaust leaks from the rusty air galley, that goes from the well-named smog pump to the exhaust manifold, in three places - all where they couldn't be seen. Cut the air galley off inside the manifold and welded it. Better but still had another leak that went away when I had a new tailpipe and muffler installed.

But it was doing the same thing with the other carbs, right? When you swapped the carbs you'd have to swap the linkage too I guess, so that rules out the linkage or the butterflies up to some weird trick. Most auto parts stores should be able to get you a set of points in a day or two if they don't have it - at least you could rule that out. Is the gas tank full? Have you tried it with the gas cap off ? I got nothing. That video is weird. Whoever figures it out should at least win a cheeseburger or something.

Here's how I would do mine if I hadn't bought the cloth braid one: Get 5' x 3/4" length of this (about $35 at Summit)Hi-Miler Blue Heater Hose | Goodyear® Engineered Products Got some of that 1/2" hose for a coolant bypass experiment. Then get the 3/4 to 5/8' rubber insert reducer (about $3.50 at Summit or the auto parts store). You'd have enough hose left over to do the 3/4" ID water hose on the right side of the engine. It's not fuel-rated (nitrile) but it's EPDM rated for 300F so should be ok. It's just moving some funky fumes, not pressurized fuel. But the Gates hose would be cheaper - probably just as good except 250F not 300.

Widely spaced dual downdraft carbs? Wonder what that is.

Here's what I saw:Gates 18083 Heater Hose : Amazon.com : Automotive 5/8 x 3/4 x 36" (it's rubber not silicon) Here's link to silicon stuff: Silicone Heater Hose, 0.625" ID, 0.940 OD, 0.160 Wall, Blue Color-Flex Technologies

Pretty sure Black Dragon has those in cloth braided hose - they just sent me a new catalog but I can't find it. I'm a little disappointed in the way my stock repro braided hoses look after five years. The ones at the car shows always look so damn perfect. Couple weeks ago I spent way to much time online looking at hoses for a project. Remember seeing a silicon reducer hose somewhere (what is it, 3/4 to 5/8"?) and thinking it would make a perfect PCV hose, sort of expensive but no more than the braided one. Silicon would be good since it can take heat - the hose is close to the exhaust manifold. You could make one out of two pieces of hose and a reducer coupling or hose splicer, cheaper than buying a reducer hose. Goodyear also makes a nice-looking EPDM heater hose in various sizes good for 275F or so, I bought 6' of it from Summit for my hook-up.

Pontiac LeMans, 68 and 92

Just be sure you have quality tires. A year ago, almost to the day, I was coming back from Arizona on the I-10, about 5 miles West of Palm Springs. Had some cheapie "Enterprise" tires. One blew out - no inflator bottle in the universe could have fixed that thing. On the side of the freeway, trucks flying by 90 mph every 5 seconds. Glad I had a spare.

What's the fuel pressure? Maybe the regulator crapped out. SU's like 3.5 psi. Maybe your other carbs like less? Too much FP could overpower the float valves, flooding it out until you get to 4000 rpm, maybe ok then. Just a shot in the dark...

I've nothing nice to say about car #1 - the more I study the pictures the queasier I feel. Way overpriced at 5 thou. Would never have the nerve to take it in to my mechanic with the engine bay looking like that. That car's gross man... #2 & 3 look like they have at least twice as much in the cars as they are asking. Both look like the mods were done with attention to detail. Goes to show you can't get back what you spent on a modded car. Would like to drive them both. Don't have a clue how to tune the twin cam, but that motor looks good. Bet it sounds nice. Don't love the 2+2's body kit, though. The blue and red stocker's posted both look great, especially the red one, wow.

Installing a new FP gauge. Anyone know if the Japanese Mechanical fuel pump has BSPT threads? Pulled the outlet off an old Nikki pump - a 1/8" NPT seems to fit ok but it's a bad place for a leak. My next pump might be a Carter. Can get BSPT if it needs it. Also, my hose to the gauge has steel crimped fittings with yellow plating. I read bad things about steel/brass corrosion (the new tee is brass). Need to put a 90 deg. elbow between the tee and the hose fitting. Would aluminum be better than brass (to separate the brass from the steel)? The hose is 3000 psi nitrile with polyester braid, steel braid, and polyester braid cover. Overkill I know, but I hope the tech crew at the strip will ok it. Easy to cap if they don't. Finally, The hose guys said use Teflon tape. Is the white tape from pep boys PTFE ? Does it matter?

The only advantage I see to this is you might have more header options. Saw some pictures (RHD) posted of this intake with headers similar to the wild looking competition ones on S20's (but I couldn't find them this morning so maybe I don't remember correctly). Sidedraft carbs would interfere with those headers. But the brake stuff would probably interfere on a LHD car, since the primaries (especially the rear ones) take up most of the left side of the engine bay. Saw those headers for sale in a Japanese magazine - mucho yen though.

Just noticed it might fit better after the exhaust manifold is on. If not, you could get your money back for the chrome water tube and buy about 3 foot of 1/2" heater hose to clamp to the valve, and a 1/2" hose splicer with hose barbs on both ends to clamp to the reducer hose of the other side of the engine. Should only cost about $10 for everything, and just as good except for the bling. Running without the valve may contribute to overheating.

At least the sunroof gives you another place to put decals. Fight that rust! The Ospho Solution..(rust removal) - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

That looks exactly the same as the 240/260Z Engine side water tube. Here's a link:Motorsport! Engine Side Water Tube, 70-74 240Z-260Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Motorsport Auto part number 16-7155. $19.32. Got one myself to replace the rusty one. Doesn't go under the dash though. Black Dragon has heater valves for the Z's - don't know if they'd work.

Here's some engine bays. Would have picked another one, but that last car won best engine bay.