Stanley

So don't go to sleep in math class, street racers.

I really gotta go to work.

Sometimes if a problem has unknown variables or is complex and you need a quick solution you can ballpark it with boundry conditions. Suppose your rear wheels were off the ground then you might notice faster revving with a lighter driveshaft. This corresponds to a burnout with a strong motor, street tires & a wet or greasy track. You might get a better burnout (disregarding the question of how much burnout is good - once bet a new Mustang GT in the 1/8 due to his excessive burnout, he creamed me in the quarter) with the lighter shaft. Once you're going, weight & rotational enertia of the driveshaft won't make much difference compared to the weight of the car. On the plus side, the MSA comes with heavy-duty u-joints. Let em argue- makes a good discussion. One thing that's kept the engineers that know it from making a lot of wrong decisions (and caused the ones who don't know it a lot of wrong decisions) is those three little words - "I don't know". Maybe I should get one - can't do much of a burnout with the automatic, ha ha.

Sounds like your car's telling you something. And...JB Weld stands up fine to hot pressurized coolant.... but don't.

Right - Don't outdrive the headlights.

10 to the 60, 60 to 91, 91/Artesia to 405, 405 back to 10, 10 to PCH (1). Went to Glendale last week (for a new used hood for the old chevy) over 7 freeways,what a nightmare, even late morning/early afternoon. Anything Eastbound is bad except very early morning, 10:30 am to 1 pm & after 9:00 pm. Might want to check out Neptune's Nest at LA/Ventura county line, barbacue oyster place central coast somewhere, all you can eat barbacue at Big Sur, etc., etc...

Please try the 60, off the 10 after Palm springs, over the hill and down to Riverside. That part of the 10 is boring. The uphill part of the 60 westbound is 2 to 4 lanes undivided and can be a bit slow here and there, but downhill it turns into 4 lanes divided. Where traffic is light you can safely hit a hundred down the mountain - perfect road for a Z. Once I found the 60 never took the 10 again.

Maybe fusible link?

Sort of hate to add any more items; guess I'm not the only one whose car is a rolling parts store and repair shop. How much is too much? Last trip the car was running rich - it was nice to have a fresh set of plugs for the drive back. I also take a timing light & dwell/tach meter, and flow meter in case I feel like doing a tuneup. Jumper cables, mostly for the other guy, so far. It would be nice to have a gallon of race gas (to make up for the extra weight, haha), since it can be a hassle to find. I better get some fuses.

I had the overrider. There was a very minor fender bender, the overrider rotated around it's attachment to the bumper and embedded itself into my hood. Maybe it would help in some situations but without it I would have had just a dented bumper - the hood would still be OK and I would have saved a bunch of pounding, bondo, 4 spray cans of high-build primer etc. Hate the overrider.

Top it off with gas on the AZ side just before crossing the river so you can go farther before you have to get the crappier and way more expensive CA gas. I like to change the oil before a trip, or at least pop in a new filter. Prefer the deli at Albertson's in Blythe to any fast food place, but there's a good Mexican place across the street from sizzler. I'd do at least part of the trip on CA highway 1, it's a sport car road with good food along the way and the 5 is so boring (and nothing but fast "food"). Check online for speed trap locations. Don't try to drive LA freeways after 3 pm.

Hope no Z's (that weren't already wrecked) were harmed building this car. Looks cool to me but I expect anyone that knows much about Ferraris would have a good laugh. Don't think I'd have the nerve to drive it on the street with those fakey emblems. With the time and money spent you could build a very fast or nice Z.

If it says Canada it should be made in Canada. Yes I've got a nice small torque wrench made in china but that's not the point. Tried to get an electric alarm clock made in USA because the last 3 were made in China and all crapped out within a year. No luck. Guess we don't know how to make a clock anymore. Japan makes some good stuff, engineering equip. etc., so I checked the Japanese brands, but all made in China. Concerned about cheap-looking Japanese (brand) or US (brand) fuel pumps for the Datsun with their "global sourceing", so I'm getting one still made in USA (I hope).

Have you tried prayer? If that doesn't work I would definately try cursing, or hitting things. BTW, my 63 chev has only 6 wires, 12 if you count the plug wires.

Maybe totally waterproof would cause condensation in damp weather. Just got my 2nd BD4000 from black dragon. The other lasted four years of full time use. Well, lasted 3 but I used it 4. A real P.O.S. when it was done. Breathable is good, OK? It kept the rain off fine when it was new. Previously had a cheap one from msa that was done in less than a year. Gotta have one though, I guess. Birds, trees and sunshine are nice, but they don't care about your car.

If it's rusty at all, you can hit it with a little ospho. Otherwise maybe wash and wax til paint time. Black Dragon has some good car covers, but the cheepie ones are done in a year. Clear over old paint? If you clear coat now it's more work sanding when you decide to paint. Clear coat is great over great paint and perfect body - otherwise it just shows all the defects. Worth it but way more work. My car has a lot of almost invisable dents that would be noticable it it was clear coated.

The pipe is just my temporary bumper. Wonder why they made the brackets like that.

Hope this helps. The wire attached to the bottom of the pump is the ground. It's about a foot long and attaches to metal. The one in the middle is the power wire. Took it (the power wire) off the pump to clean the connection which was a mistake, it's sorta not removeable. Stock pump on my 73. Looks better since the photo with black epoxy paint. Not hooked up yet.

Nice, careful work. But I love my cracked dash - it's one reason someone in my financial ****uation can afford a great sports car.

As a spectator (this might sound selfish) to me it's all for the spectators. Sure participants feel different, but I just want to see the cars. Don't give a damn who wins what, just want to see something cool, or different, or classic. Maybe a shocker, like that 510 with the big rotary engine, or something I've never seen before like a Z432 or a nissan Cherry. And of course the Z's. Always pick up a few ideas for the engine bay or something.The only real gripe I've ever had about a carshow is the price of sandwiches

Got a real Nissan 180 deg Thermostat at The dealership in Tucson about 2 years ago. Looked more well-made than the chain-store type, flows better according to some. One of the few parts they still had for a 240, about $17.

Sorry, clicked on the translation for last year issue #141 that had a Z on the cover, thought it was for new issue 153. Guess it's not translated yet.

http://geibunsha.co.jp/mag/nh/en/pdf/NostalgicHero141_en.pdf One more thing, you can subscribe or download an English translation (featured cars articles only) from this site. They also have translations of some other issues. I was trying to subscribe to N.H. at their site but at $32.69 per issue (fast air), 21.32 (slow air) or 13.52 (2 to 3 months by sea) said hell with it, just pick it up at Asahiya for 17.75 or order from them. Not as much of an adventure but way easier.

Oct. issue of Nostalgic Hero features S30's. Also Gloria, Cedric, Cherry. Hundreds of little hi-def photos so a magnifying glass is handy. Need a 2.4L kit for your S20? Check the ads. Love sound of S20's? There's a DVD included with the 2012 JCCA TS Cup, music for your ears, plus car shows, etc. $17.75 at http://asahiyausa.com/shop/index.php/contacts/ Didn't see a ISBN number but they said just sent an email to order it.

Right, no AT - should have worn my glasses. The AT vac line if you had it would be Tee'd off the master vac connection. BTW make sure there's no vac or exaust leaks. My air galley tubes that go into the exaust manifold were rusted out and made fumes til I had them cut off inside and welded shut.