Stanley

I read a science fiction story when I was a kid, maybe it was by Asimov. Anyway it was a future world when robots did everything. Somehow, the robots started getting cranky and sick. A smart robot mechanic noticed the robots had a lot of unnecessary parts. So he removed those unecessary part and suddenly the robots were much happier and did their work better.

1/8" NPT works OK for the vac holes but it's not exact so use some teflon tape. BPT (British Pipe Thread?) is the real deal - how do I know? The Search feature on the home page. My 73 is slightly different I think. You have an automatic I'm guessing from that steel vac tube on the back. Most people get rid of all that junk from the cars I've seen. Some of those holes aren't vacs, leave them open or put a stainless metric bolt for looks. That cast iron thing has to stay unless you do something else to support the fast idle screw, I don't like it - got the rest shined up. The flying saucer thing on top of it can go. Maybe that junk is worth some money? Those carbs look sweet but now the balance tube sticks out like a sore thumb. Fortunately the balance tube comes right off (seal the gaskets when you put it back). A half hour work with a soft wire brush, then a bunch of aluminum polish and buffing ....

Not a Datsun, and the quality's a little crappy, but this is how to win at Pike's Peak. http://www.fastdrive.org/vids/media/1215/Rhys_Millen_Smashes_Pikes_Peak_Record/

One way to see if there's gas in the float bowls: pull the hose (if it has a stock air cleaner) off the float bowl vent. Get a little straw from the wd-40 or carb cleaner spray can and stick it down the vent hole. It should rest lightly on top of the float. When you push it it goes down 1/2" or so - you can easily tell if there's gas.

Just a steel fuel filter, about the size of a frozen orange juice can, with a 5/16 I think hose barb each end. About $6 or so. Probably made for a big V-8 but who cares, just so it's free-flowing enough. One of those big filters like a mallory competition would be cool but they're like $45 or so. If there's a stock electric pump back there it's got a removable filter too, in the body of the pump, the filters are available from msa, got one a few months ago.

Captain O. mentioned checking (cleaning) the filter on the rear fuel pump. Did you do that? It's by the frame at the right rear wheel well. Use a channel lock to take off the filter. Doing donuts could stir up nearly 40 years of gunk & debris in the gas tank, clogging up the works. You can put a clear filter before the pump to diagnose a dirty tank - replace it with a metal filter later for safety. If a few donuts blew out the clutch it was time for a new one anyway.

Plugs OK and torqued to 11-15 ft-lb? My truck was doing that in the N. Cal mountains. Tightened up the plugs and fixed it.

Why no new distributors? MSA had them last year I think. You might be able to (haven't tried) order one from Japan. Saw a Star Road ad in Oct. issue of Nostalgic Hero magazine for a new Z dist., 30,450 yen or $389.89. http:/www.starroad.co.jp. Go to their site to check it out and click on Contact to send an email. Google toolbar translator helps. Or call them at 03-5668-5675, fax 03-5668-5676.

More to the question than meets the eye. It made me reconsider my current lil project - a minor carb tune with new nozzles, float valves, float adjustment, and needle mod. Was going to do the first three all at once. Really screwed up before by not considering the test 'n tune order. Pulled the rear pump which was clogged - didn't put a filter back there. Ran better a few days, then wouldn't run until I ran a steel cable PITA through the steel lines that clogged up. Then I put the filter - then I cleaned the tank when it clogged the new filter in a week. I like to know the theory, then test it on the street. Speed is science. Mostly, one step at a time to diagnose. Guess I'm lazy, or in a hurry, so I sometimes I don't follow the rule. Need to keep a notebook, too, which I don't. On the other hand, if you do everything to tune a system at once, more gets done, you don't just stop when it's fixed and maybe miss something else that might fail next. But if you're tuning two systems, say carbs and timeing, definately on step at a time. Anyway, good timing. I'm gonna go step by step on these carbs, thank you. And get a notebook...

585 fsm Fig EF-47.pdf Here's a couple of shots from the 1972 L20A, L24 Nissan (engine) Service Manual. The first one clearly shows the fuel level to be 23 mm down from the bottom of the lid, not from the top of the bowl or the gasket. The second shows the dist. 14 to 15 mm from the bottom of the lid to the metal tang on the float, slightly different than the top of the float but maybe it doesn't make much difference. I talked to Bruce on the phone, he like other respectable sources agree the level in the nozzle being the same is what matters. The only problem is it's hard to see whats going on in the nozzle. Read about checking it from above but seems like there should be an easier way than removing the chamber, checking the level if possible, removeing the float cover and adjusting the float, putting the covers back on a getting fuel pressure up, repeat, repeat, etc. BTW the 72 fsm shows various 3 and 4 screw models in the photos and drawings - no mention of any difference in front/rear float lids. You could pull the nozzle out, hold it level and mark it, but when you pull it some gas runs out changing the measurement. My plan is to use the sight glass and mark the nozzle at a equal mix nut position, 2 1/2 turns down for example. Hope that works. 583 FSM fig EF-46.pdf

I know this has been covered many times. I've done the search, watched the ZT video. Yes the front float is meant to sit lower. Thread #38660, response by Bcalvosa, 5/23/2010 seems to explain why the best (although I read a conflicting theory based on the gas sloping during acceleration), that is because the engine is tilted and different float levels equal same levels at the nozzle (relative to that carb). Bcalvosa states the gas level to be 25 mm front, 21 mm rear, measured down from the tip of the bowl including the gasket. Most other sources say 25mm front, 23 mm rear. Which is right? I've got to install some new float valves & nozzles, then a local race mechanic is going to mod my needles. I want my settings & mix to be exactly spot on before I take it in so he won't have to mess with that; don't care if I have to spend a whole day getting it right. I think the mix needs to be set so the mix nuts are set the exactly the same, otherwise the needles won't be at the same level in the nozzle at any speed, which might matter esp at top end. Love those Hondas, but can't let them win.

How bout one of these, heh heh....DSCF0948.pdf

With 110 K now, unless you plan on putting a rod through the block you might have to wait a while. I know a Datsun pickup that just got a rebuild - after 250K miles. Done any mods yet? I like some swaps, but there's a lot of potential in the L series motor, and I love to hear it wind. I'm a po boy, so it would be hipocritical to dis a swap I could never afford, but there's pleasure to getting the most out of your rig by tuneing. I bet my Z could beat it's previous self by at least 15 lengths in the quarter mile, and it's still pretty much stock, stock 81 JDM head & cam, though. A fresh valve job, carb & ignition tune, better exaust system? Not a lot of money, plenty of speed. If you've got the bucks, and/or the skills, and just have to swap, I'd put something Nissan, just my opinion.

Watch out for curbs. Dinged mine slightly the 2nd day I had it. It was so perfect looking, too. Gonna get one of those Japanese band-aid decals for it, maybe.

Good advice above from those with experience. Not a restorer, body man or anything, but I've got a old chevy 6 truck that runs great but has horrible rust. Had to rebuild the door frames & sills with fiberglass & SS mesh. I'd get a gallon or two of phosphoric acid, a paint brush, goggles & rubber gloves. Spent a few hours or days, hit a the rust you can reach with a wire brush, paint it all twice with the ospho, then say the hell with it. Swap out the filters, fluids, plugs and rubber hoses, and just drive. $925 is pretty good for a car that runs.

Maybe a Datsun is engineering project enough.

Here's a couple more. Mr. clean was there.DSCF0970.pdf along with some DSCF0948.pdf510's. And Mary (Diane Kray-Wesley) was there, by Skyline alley.... DSCF0926.pdf

Cruised down to LB for the JCCS. Hot day - cool cars.DSCF0965.pdf Saw a bad roadster and a Z432. DSCF0914.pdf DSCF0915.pdf

One more lil comment: yes I street race, and do WOT test runs with a stop watch, but only when it's safe (divided road, 3 or 4 lanes ahead with no cars and no side streets for 1/8 mile or more), never when it would endanger or frighten another driver. Watch the other cars but also yourself, if you're tired or had a beer don't fiddle with the radio or look for a map. Red light runners and drunk drivers can happen any time, any place.

With some minor tuneing of engine, brakes & suspension, any Z should be able to take off like a rocket, turn & stop on a dime. All good for safety. On the other hand, you're about a foot lower than everything else on the road, so maybe they can't see you. Defensive driving every second. Since getting broadsided about 15 years ago (in a ford turino station wagon-tank, thanks!) I look both ways whenever I go through an intersection. WOT a lot so watch for police. When it's bumper to bumper at 90 mph on the freeway, I'm glad as hell I've got a car that responds.

DSCF0868.pdf Some rally shots.DSCF0867.pdf

DSCF0873.pdf ISBN978-4-87514-893-7 Try later with the cover. Wonder if those headers work with LHD?

Sorry, but I checked online, found plenty of places to order it but nothing in english. Only one used copy of vol 1 (Skylines) for about $75. Got my copy from Asahiya Bookstore in Torrance, (310) 375-3303. Could probably order from them. $26 is better. Or order from Japan if you read Japanese. I decifered the katakana on the cover as Fairlady Z. Bought a katakana workbook to go with it. Katakana is used for foreign words like english, there are tons of it in the car mags; to me it's the easiest Japanese writing to read. The pictures are so cool it doesn't matter.

If you don't want to spend hours checking out a big glossy mag from Japan filled with amazing Z cars, engines, Z parts catalogs etc., don't plunk down $26 for this issue. S30-31, S130, Z31 & Z32's but mostly early Z's. Just got paid, checked the car mags at the local book store next to Marukai and there it was, wow. Published by Kotsu Times Sha Co., LTD. 130 pages. Don't know how long it will be in the mag rack, so .....

Hate to dis a distributor but in my opinion if you've got that 73 dual point, I'd trash it. When I bought my car it had that stupid thing. Didn't want to put the single points because I thought it wasn't stock so it wouldn't work. Wrong. Finally put the euro dist. and what a difference. Suddenly it would fire right up, even on a cold day. Car goes faster too, I think.