newtonhubcap

Oh, forgot to mention that my daughter has and continues to thank me for taking her to the car show. In fact, she asked if we could go next year! Hearing that from her makes me a happy Z-dad!

Ok, I thought I should give a qiuick update on the heater faceplate replating. Back on July 13, 14 my daughter and I went to the Iola Car Show and Swap weekend. A co-worker of mine goes every year so we camp with him and his group. Anyway, while beating the rows of swap dealers I saw a Chrome Tech vendor and a bit surprised. So, I went to the booth and I asked if Robert was around and guess who I was acutally talking with, Robert. Needless to say we got to meet face to face and he apoligized for the delay but it has been so blasted hot here he has been only doing the plating when we have cold fronts push through. No problems I understand, so today I was with my Supervisor inspecting some clay for our dike project and guess who calls, yep, Robert. He said the face plate is finished and he really was glad I had a second faceplate to reference back to for the painting but the face plate is done but not in hands yet. Anyway he is sending pictures of the face plate for me to look at before we finalize the project. So, I would expect to have the plate back in hand sometime late next week. I will get pictures up and answer any questions anyone has. Stay tune!

Congrats, I have a 60 gallon but swapped the air pump out to a radius 3 clyinder air pump with a continuous run feature on it. The radius air pumps cool better since each cylinder is bathed in air flow instead of one hiding behind the other. The continous run feature allows the pump to run steady while air demands are high which prevent the air pump from stopping and starting repititive thus putting heavy loads on your capacitators. Mine is set to run 120psi on continous but shuts down on the pressure regulator at 135 psi. I can run non-stop with my pot-blaster with no problems but the key to blasting is matching your nozzle air flow to you pump air flow. Enjoy the ability to run real air tools!

I had the same problem with a 240 back in early 80's after putting new tires on. I ended up replacing the rack bushings. Would raise the front and check the rack for excessive play.

Just a quick note, the face plate is still in Rob's hands but since then I have sent another face plate to him to use as a reference how to repaint the face plate. I was going to do it myself but he convinced me to go ahead and let him do the detail work. No final estimate yet but he did say the face plate was done in regards to the vaccum plating. As soon as I get it back I will put up picture(s) and let the gallery decide on the quality.

Guess, it really was a no brainer in addition to the cost difference. I do plan to send the tail light trims but have not started stripping them. Maybe get them started this weekend. If I can get the remaining trumpeter swan nest survey done early to day I should be able to ship the face plate out. When I get it will put picture of it out. Also, I found a second vaccum plater that may do this. Will contact them and see. Enjoy the weekend when you all get to it.

Have you ever had a day when you are convience you know what direction your going to go and then all a sudden you have the ability to go right or left. Well, I just hit the Y-intersection. I found and a guy here in Madison Wi. who does vacuum plating chrome on numerous restoration dashes. He has been doing for twenty years and for $50 (estimate) to replate the face plate versuses ~$400 for the mirra chrome (pint kit), I have to rethink my direction. I would love to spray the mirra chrome but if it doesn't work then its a $400 flop which I doubt will be the case. I did talk talk with Gerry at ALSA and he said the mirra chrome is great but it is really the technique that makes or breaks the finish outcome. With the speed clear sprayed it should be pretty durable. Talking with Rob at www.chrometechusa.com/, he said the vacuum plating will last another 30 yrs if you treat it right. Needless to say the restore will go but whether I spray mirra chrome or go with vacuum plating that is now my dilema.

Got to admit I am excited spray the mirrachrome. I follow the european touring car circuit. Numeous audi bidy chrome parts are sprayed with this. Even a couple of F1 use this.

Well, this has been an ongoing process for the past month and a half attempting to prep one of the two heater face plates I have for the 240's I have. Originally some of the chrome was flaking and the black paint was worn through in places so I made that bold jump to "strip it" to the base plastic. The face plate has been in muric-acid for the the duration, only removed to scrub off the loosened material with 00 steel wool. I have attached a couple of photos showing what the face plates looked like and what the strip plate looks like. Now I just have to get a pint of Mirrachrome, and then do the black paint and then detail the letters and hopefully I will have a fully retro-new face plate.

Jeif G78, give me a buzz when and if you get it done. Am in no real hurry since just getting into my (2) 1971. Thanks Newtonhubcap (Wayne)

cygnusx1, the seals you bought are those from Datsunsocal ? Just confirming!

I know this is a year old thread but did anyone actually come up with a final product that "works"?

Just want to say thanks to everyone for their input. After reading all replies, I decided to pull the trigger. So, on our return trip (spring break) from Oklahoma, my daughter and I made the run to Sioux Falls SD to get the motor. When we got there E. had the motor hanging on the hoist so all we had to do was back up to it and slide it in and shake hands. Within in 30 minutes we were back on the road heading to Wisconsin. Overall, I feel it was well worth the 900 mile day trip to get a fairly low (44,000 miles) clean-complete motor for free! A big Thank you to E. for the motor.

What did I do today (actually yesterday)? My daughter and I drove from Fairland OK. to Sioux Falls SD and then on to home (Wisconsin) to pick up a complete L28 engine. Was a great 900 mile day but we safely at touched down safely at home. The engine has 44,000 on and the price was right, free.

Good morning all, I am on my way to Oklahoma tommorrow and on my return trip I have the opportunity to pick up a complete 77 L28 engine with 44,000 miles on it for "free" in Sioux Falls. I tried searching advantages of the F54 over the N42 block. All I know is the F54 net HP was 145 ponies compared to the 135 ponies of the N42. The F54 also has the siamese cylinders where the P30 and N42 blocks were not and had coolant flow between cylinders. My intent is not to build a radical powerhouse but would like to build a block that will be stout when you stomp on it for autocrossing and Z-speed fun and have compression in the 9.0-9.5:1 range. I have two E31 heads but would keep my eyes open for a P90 head and use flat-top pistons. My question for this great group of knowledge is should I hold off and keep seeking for a F54 block or will the N42 hold up to the build? Thanks to everyone for their input in advance. Newtonhubcap

First, really glad to hear you are fine. Second, WOW! Again, really glad you are fine and sorry see a Z in that condition.

What I did today is nothing earth shattering but I did work on the yellow Z today rather the red Z. Finally got around to removing the aluminum body trim bumpers. Now, I just have to weld the holes up!

Today, I knocked the last 3 pistons out of the number match block for one fo the 240z I have. Now, will run a ball hone through it and see what the odds are for salvaging the block now the pistons are out. I know this is a bit off but this is what my daughter and I did yesterday. Brief story, 2 month ago her and I were involved in rescuing 2 black bear cubs in a timber sale that had been abondin by the sow with an approaching winter storm in the dark. Needless to say 2 month later these 1.5 lb cubs are now 10.3 and 12.2 lbs. Our goal was to introduce these cubs to a sorrogate sow yesterday. Attached is my daughter on the right and friend who helped out. All in a days work for me. :ermm:

Wow,would agree that the car destine to be a donor car. With patience you should be able to track down a more sound foundation to start with. I got lucky, I was routed to a guy in Texas which turned out to have 2 1971 fully intact no rust cars (1 from AZ, and other car from CA). Was able to pick both cars up for $5000. My only challenge was getting them back to Wisconsin which I did. For now, the Texan Twins are tucked away in two garages waiting for snow to melt. Take your time because when you least expect it, you will find a gem!

Yes, about 3-4 months back when they first came out with these they were $70/pair. In a very short time they have doubled gouge their price. I understand the American market, screw people over while you can. I hope another source becomes available soon. For now, I won't stand to be robbed. My 2 early Z's will remain sideline till I find another source.

Guys, thanks for your thoughts and recommendations. Like I figured there are other options to doing all this "restore". Mike, never thought about having the rims in a sense "re-milled" using cnc. Good write on it. Rainman, good to see others see the problem with polishing and powder-coating adhereing to polished surfaces. Guess, I was hoping someone would say done that and worked great but guess I will be having that discussion with my poweder-coater! Thanks again for wealth of knowledge! Newtonhubcap

Thanks guys! The 3rd post is what I was looking for.

Morrning all, I have 4 sets of aluminum rims (snow-flake, and era correct 5-slot) I am getting ready to pull down from rafters and clean and prep to restore. I did some searching onsite and did not come up with any discussion of refinishing the rims but to seal them in a clear powder-coating coating? Will take the rims in to be hot -tank washed to remove all road grime and grease, sand, then polish rims, then seal in a clear powder-coat finish? My question, am I off my rocker for using powder coatings or go with the available products like dupli-color or Eastwood? Enjoy your weekend! Newtonhubcap

I hope someone here can help me. I am almost certain I saw a thread on making one's own fuel line insulators. I can not relocate that thread. If someone knows of that thread if you could direct me in that direction I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance. Newtonhubcap!