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Sorry, for the delayed response. I've been away on vacation. Yes, Conlanp, you can come get it. I'll try to send you a private message to work out the details.

Hello classic z community! It's been a long time since I've posted here. I'm grateful for all the great advice I've gotten from this site. I hope everyone has been doing well. Now, onto the interesting part. The great news: I have an N42 head that needs a new home, and I don't want any money for it. The catch: the N42 head is attached to a P30 block that has a bad bearing. the N42 should be just fine and in working condition. The bottom end will need some work on the bearings to be useful. I hope someone can use it. I'd prefer to give it to someone who can/will take the whole thing so I can clean out my garage. once upon a time I started to take the head off the block, but got busy and that project was never completed. the engine was in my 1971 240z, but I don't believe it was the original engine. the engine is in Davis, CA. Thanks!

Thanks Unkle, Jim, and Zed Head!

Thanks. I'll try that. Can the car be driven with the tumblers separate from the contacts?

Hi there, I've been having a multitude of issues with my 71 240Z lately. The issues have included: Lack of spark when starting (starter motor turning) Not even turning over when starting Engine cutting out immediately after starting Engine cutting out/dying as I'm driving down the street and most recently buzzing when the driver door is opened (although no key is in the ignition - However inserting the key stopped the buzzing) I noticed that the parking brake light would sometimes be illuminated when the brake was engaged and sometimes not. A little jiggling of the key would cause the light to come on... hence my suspicion that the switch may be worn. A couple questions, and I apologize for not doing a thorough search before hand. 1. Could some (or all) of the aforementioned issues be due to a worn ignition switch? 2. Are there electrical connections in the tumbler portion of the switch, or are all electrical connections in the rear? (I realize this is easy enough for me to go see, but I thought it wouldnt hurt to ask.) 3. Most Importantly - Any other advice as to how I could determine if I should replace the whole switch or just the rear portion. Or is there more troubleshooting I could do? Thanks for your time, Ty

I'm having this sqeeaking issue as well. I tried removing yhe wheel and squirting some kroil in the obvious areas. The squeak went away for a few turns of the wheel, but came back just as annoying as before. Any recommendations for type of lube? Thanks!

i saw this on Craigslist Sacramento http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/178612606.html Just thought I'd pass along the info.

Marty, The Summit oil pressure switch has instructions for an optional bypass button which allows you to turn on the pump with zero oil pressure. I find that if the car hasn't been driven in awhile, it is helpful to "prime" the float bowls by using the bypass button to start the fuel pump for a few seconds before I try to start the car. Also, I would guess that you can wire any switch to have this bypass feature. my 2 cents, Ty

David, Those custom door panels sound cool. good luck. Please post pics so I can drool over them. I thought about making custom kickpanel enclosures for my 5.25" speakers, but for now I'm just using homemade speaker boxes in the hatch area.

I used a Summit low pressure cutoff switch as my safety switch when i converted to an electric fuel pump. the model number was SUM-G1438. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-G1438 They have a pdf that you can download that has the wiring diagram for the switch and fuel pump. You'll also need a relay for this to work, but the pdf covers that too.

i think there are a couple of options. One is to replace the points with an aftermarket kit such as manufactured by Pertronix. Another option is to use a later model z car ignition. The key words to search for that would be "E12-80". I'm a newbie to cars so i can't comment on the technical aspects, but searching for Pertronix and E12-80 ought to get you headed in the right direction.

Well done! That is really nice looking. It looks infinitely better than my homemade creation of an adapter. Good luck with the production, Arne.

I've seen advertisements for Crystal Guard or 5 Star Shine type products that claim to eliminate the need for waxing. they are also supposed to make washing easier/quicker. Search Google for those names and you should be able to find their websites. i haven't tried any of these types of products personally, so i can't speak to how well they work or not. But i figure you may be able to get similar results for your truck for less than $600. good luck and if you do get the either the dealer option or "aftermarket" paint protection, please report back your results. -Ty

looking at the pictures in the link, and the VIN, i'd say that is a 1970 model, not a 71.

I believe you need AutoCAD to open a .DWG file. i printed the CAD file to a pdf file so you can see what it looks like (assuming you have Acrobat reader). I'm not skilled enough in AutoCAD to figure out how to convert the DWG into a JPG or BMP. I could however, print the CAD file and scan it as a jpg if you want. AutoCAD Datsun 240Z.pdf

cool. thanks.

Arne, my apologies for being smug. I respect that you didn't want to repost information. -Ty

I've spent a good couple hours searching the various z car websites reading about the wiring and the diode over the past couple weeks and could only find minimal information about where to actually put the diode. So i just searched this site again, and I found the following post which has the exact information i was looking for. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5957&highlight=zx+alternator The specific information i was looking for is: "Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from flowing. " Good luck with producing these adapters.

Arne, where does the diode go in the plug n play adapter? i'm currently trying to do this wiring conversion, too. Thanks, Ty

I blocked my thermostat to intake manifold outlet with a pipe plug from McMaster-Carr. The threads were BSPT. As for the lower radiator intake hose, i also would like to know the best way to block that hole.

Tahnks for the confirmation that the egr hole is threaded. And thanks for the opinions that JB weld can't take the heat. Anyone have an idea of what size the threads might be? i stuck the largest bolts i could find in my garage in there, and they were all too small. I think 14mm was the largest one i had. I'm using the 280 exhaust manifold to go with teh 280 engine that is in the car. The 240 exhaust manifold didn't have the right shape exhaust ports (and is also smaller). Thanks, Ty

I have a related question about the egr tube. I put an l28 block and exhaust manifold in my 240 and i need to plug the hole for the egr. I felt inside the hole for threads, but couldn't feel any. Since the manifold is in the car already, i can't look into the hole very well. Are there threads so that a bolt can plug the hole? If so, what size? If not, any other suggestions? I have some JB weld at my disposal. thanks

see the following post for some suggestions: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7366&highlight=engine+removal good luck!

240zwinter, I sent you a pm about a pertronix setup. -Ty

i have one from a 71 4speed. Will that work? I'm not sure when i could get to the post office to mail it though. Have you tried the local pick n pull? -Ty