Znut73

ok what are the main things that need to be hooked up? I was thinking the same thing beandip thanks for the confermation. Maybe i took something off that needs to be there does anyone know? I think i experinced my first anyourism because this car is making me:sick:

OK I got it to finaly idel but it is still way to high and it does not want to seem to kick down even when i stab the throtle the only way it drops is if i putthe car in gear and hold the clutch (just before the tires want to move) i have even messed with the idel screw on the Carb itself and nothing.one more thing it starts to backfire through the carbs every so offten and some times it doesn't want to fire other times it fires on the first try.when it backfires through the carbs gas pops out. Does anybody have a clue on what to do if so thanks.

ok (engine F54) (Carbs Webber Red Line DGV5)(timing is set at the spec from the manual) the only thing different is i did not hoke up the smog stuff could this afect it any?

ok Finally got the new motor to start now the problem is that after it starts it wont idel it revs high and then starts to die give a little gas (not much) and up goes the RPM's real high.(not good) and then gas pops through the carbs(down drafts:sick: ) then it just slowly dies out does anybody know what can be causing this thanks for your time Zclub

WoW that sucks so basickly through all that propaganda we classic Z owners will have to start smoging are cars in Cali. IMO that really sucks i wish they would make up there minds.Just MO though:angry:

yes the removel of smog would be fo performance i have the weber carbs they were already on the car when i bought it i was recently at the speed shop and was told that the removel of the smog on the motor would be a great help in performance it is a 73 head (E88) if that helps was i told wrong at the speed shop would leaving the smog on be the best? let me know (and i think it does look a little cleaner with out all that stuff on there)

wondering what all i can take off dont realy know where all the smog stuf is i have an E88 head and it looks like there is alot of smog on it does anyone know what can be pulled off and where it all would be located thanks for the help

Thanks Jeff by the way do you still have that header?

Thanks 2many anothe question do you have to buy new ones or can you clean the old ones with a die and install

would you have to purchace anything else with this cam swap?and what would be the shipping to 95939 CA.

got a new block(F54) my question is can i use L24headbolts on the 82L28 or do i need to purchace difrent ones for that year and are the torking specs diferent if so does anybody know them. Thanks

Thanks alot Jeff orderd one its on its way just excited to get my car back your right the smart thing to do is to wait and do it right Another question head bolts wich ones do i use if the block is an L28 F54 and the car is a 240z does it matter are they interchangeable? thanks again Jeff for the help

That beats the price they told me in Chico how do i get one of those catalogs and will it hurt the motor if ran with the old tentioner and guides

Well it hurt the motor at all if the timing cahin guides and tentioner are a little scared or worn? What will happen if i run it like this priced a timing chain kit 195.00 ouch

Thanks alot that was the prob i did remove the clutch from the gear box and did not bleed when hoked back up there must of been presure in the lines because when i pressed it to the floor(clutch pedal) it tore that boot around the slave all to hell and thats were it was poring out the fluid. Anyway thanks alot for the help do you think that i need a new slave?

is this cam a rough ideal cam (lopey) and what is the power range on it sounds like a great deal

what would you have to do to get the increase power with this intake looking to start to modify my Z

is this intake better than stock and can you still run the weber setup with this type if so interested

yes i put new block in but the gear box stayed in the car had know idea that you were supposed to bleed the lines (dumb move) maybe that has something to with it and it is the (slave) thats leaking just learned what thats called from searching the fourms here how do you go about bleeding the lines thanks for the help

Put new block in lined up the clutch bolted every thing down while the car was off it was still able top roll while in gear checked to see if it was in gear and it was. Steped on the clutch and it made a sound (clunck) then went through the gears as soon as i let the clutch peadel out it was rock hard would not go down after i step on it with a little more presure it made the same noise (clunck) and then clutch fluid starts poring out were the line goes in and the boot that goes around it is tore to hell and now the peadel is sloppy like its not even hooked up does anyone know what this is i need help

Great Jeff thanks i get my F54 on monday and that was one of my concerns another is the timeing how do you go about that does any one know the specs.