desertmonkey

lower right lip broke off and so did lower lip on distributer flange. I used a flat washer and rubber o ring andit worked and the other is JB welded it broke off cleanly. i was having issues with the distributor not staying in the drive slots. Today I will see how well the JB did and file off the excess. I will make a gasket with thicker paper and snug down the distributor after I reposition the oil pump because the rotor is pointing past #1 s I cannot get enough total advance. I still need the cover

where i'm at there is no chance of finding a cover and e bay also drew a blank

How about a 510 or 210 front cover or better yet anyone have a cover top sell I have JB welded this one and have my doubts?

Can a 240 or 280Z front timing cover work on a 74 260Z?

with the engine off the brake pedal feels normal not mushy but I will bleed it again through the master cylinder. I will also pull the booster and readjust the travel and switch yokes.

Tomorrow early I will pull the booster off and change the position on the rod. Before I reconnect the vac line I will test the pedal to see if there is any air in the system. I will let you know hopefully I will still see the NFL games.

I have replaced a non working clock with a Vacuum gage and we show steady 19 inches at idle at 750 rpm with no backfire on accel and 8 degrees initial timing. I do hve a UniSync and ColorTune and will rest the carbs. I still have to do a HOT valve adjust and I should get up to 20 inches of vacuum. This happens only when the pedal is applied. If I gunned the engine the Vacuum drops and returns to a steady 19. I do see some smoke on hard accel from the exhaust and I have installed Motorcraft plugs gapped at .040. So once the final adjustments are made with fluids changed out I should have a smooth performing set of SU's. I even took all the venting system out and replaced my fuel tank with marine hoses and a vented cap and have only one mechanical pump. We ran her completely out of fuel and put in 5 gallons and she fired up like a fuel injected car. This week she gets extensive road testing and based on the way she sounds with a mild cam after the brakes are straightened out I will have a screamer.

installed a 280zx brake booster on a 260z and now the idles goes up slowly when pedal is pushed...could that be because pedal travel is too much? The part is a CaeDone reman.

:sick:I think it is seatbelt interlock and I found wires cut along the seat mounts on the floor and I saw switches attached to the rails. I will wire them in and see what happens.

:pirate:Can I just pull the relay and bridge the connectors? O take it apart and clean it?

:mad:There are times when our 260Z starts right up like she is fuel injected and times when you turn the key and the solenoid clicks and nothing else. I also hear a click at times from a relay on the right front kick panel. I have a reman Hitachi starter and a new switch at the rear of the key cylinder. Any ideas what could be causing this? I have the shop manual and the only thing that looks like it is a interlock device and we have a 4 speed.

I will have to take the air filters off to use the Unisync so I will check the movement ofthe piston and watch the oil. I will let you know what happens

Thanks I will take the domes off tomorrow on at a time and double check the mechanisms and clean all the surfaces and give them a thin film of silicone. Once I get them together I will static adjust them and add the oil to the dampners. I will work with the Unisync and get the flow checked. I will go with Marvel Mystery Oil.

If the domes are screwed down tight and the pistons on the caps are snug in the well where would the oil go? I have a book on SU carbs so maybe if I get a kit to reuild them and do one at a time it may cure the oil issue. That could be the entire performance problem we have had all along cold or warm.

LOLNot a laughing matter folks I have a 260Z that slurps carb dampner oil I add everday. I have tried ATF, Marvel 3in1 and motor oils. At times she will idle smooth and steady and then she will shudder and pop from the exhaust Maybe I will pull the plugs and take a look even though I just did that a day or so ago. Are there supposed to be O ring seals on the caps of these carbs or just flush to the domes? They both seem to respond to adjustments and have power. Back to square one.