desertmonkey

lower right lip broke off and so did lower lip on distributer flange. I used a flat washer and rubber o ring andit worked and the other is JB welded it broke off cleanly. i was having issues with the distributor not staying in the drive slots. Today I will see how well the JB did and file off the excess. I will make a gasket with thicker paper and snug down the distributor after I reposition the oil pump because the rotor is pointing past #1 s I cannot get enough total advance. I still need the cover

where i'm at there is no chance of finding a cover and e bay also drew a blank

How about a 510 or 210 front cover or better yet anyone have a cover top sell I have JB welded this one and have my doubts?

Can a 240 or 280Z front timing cover work on a 74 260Z?

with the engine off the brake pedal feels normal not mushy but I will bleed it again through the master cylinder. I will also pull the booster and readjust the travel and switch yokes.

Tomorrow early I will pull the booster off and change the position on the rod. Before I reconnect the vac line I will test the pedal to see if there is any air in the system. I will let you know hopefully I will still see the NFL games.

I have replaced a non working clock with a Vacuum gage and we show steady 19 inches at idle at 750 rpm with no backfire on accel and 8 degrees initial timing. I do hve a UniSync and ColorTune and will rest the carbs. I still have to do a HOT valve adjust and I should get up to 20 inches of vacuum. This happens only when the pedal is applied. If I gunned the engine the Vacuum drops and returns to a steady 19. I do see some smoke on hard accel from the exhaust and I have installed Motorcraft plugs gapped at .040. So once the final adjustments are made with fluids changed out I should have a smooth performing set of SU's. I even took all the venting system out and replaced my fuel tank with marine hoses and a vented cap and have only one mechanical pump. We ran her completely out of fuel and put in 5 gallons and she fired up like a fuel injected car. This week she gets extensive road testing and based on the way she sounds with a mild cam after the brakes are straightened out I will have a screamer.

installed a 280zx brake booster on a 260z and now the idles goes up slowly when pedal is pushed...could that be because pedal travel is too much? The part is a CaeDone reman.

:sick:I think it is seatbelt interlock and I found wires cut along the seat mounts on the floor and I saw switches attached to the rails. I will wire them in and see what happens.

:pirate:Can I just pull the relay and bridge the connectors? O take it apart and clean it?

:mad:There are times when our 260Z starts right up like she is fuel injected and times when you turn the key and the solenoid clicks and nothing else. I also hear a click at times from a relay on the right front kick panel. I have a reman Hitachi starter and a new switch at the rear of the key cylinder. Any ideas what could be causing this? I have the shop manual and the only thing that looks like it is a interlock device and we have a 4 speed.

I will have to take the air filters off to use the Unisync so I will check the movement ofthe piston and watch the oil. I will let you know what happens

Thanks I will take the domes off tomorrow on at a time and double check the mechanisms and clean all the surfaces and give them a thin film of silicone. Once I get them together I will static adjust them and add the oil to the dampners. I will work with the Unisync and get the flow checked. I will go with Marvel Mystery Oil.

If the domes are screwed down tight and the pistons on the caps are snug in the well where would the oil go? I have a book on SU carbs so maybe if I get a kit to reuild them and do one at a time it may cure the oil issue. That could be the entire performance problem we have had all along cold or warm.

LOLNot a laughing matter folks I have a 260Z that slurps carb dampner oil I add everday. I have tried ATF, Marvel 3in1 and motor oils. At times she will idle smooth and steady and then she will shudder and pop from the exhaust Maybe I will pull the plugs and take a look even though I just did that a day or so ago. Are there supposed to be O ring seals on the caps of these carbs or just flush to the domes? They both seem to respond to adjustments and have power. Back to square one.

:stupid:flipped a reman zx booster upside down in our 260Z 2+2 and there is a lot of pedal travel plus the vacuum drops and the idle will surge when applied. Will adjusting pedal correct this and keep the idle steady?

is there a good source for buying a bag of (shrivet pins) the ribbed pin that fits in the slots of the edges along the inside of the body. They secure the various panels.:ermm:

Thanks to those who viewed my pics and also those who gave suggestions. I am turning my focus to the body and paint work. There are still some small things that need attention so I hope that I have better days ahead.

pics are on Photobucket in Perplexed but the car was red originally when we bought her she was dark cherry metallic. We sanded the body and tried to rattle can the primer. So now we wheeled some areas down to bare metal and she looks like a speckled trout. Perhaps I must wet sand by hand and than shoot the primer with a gravity gun and my compressor.

;)After sanding some areas of the body I am considering trying this aircraft paint stripper than sanding by hand the spots that I miss. I would wipe the body down and blow dry it afterwards. I got some body filling to do and than on with the primer. Any suggestions? Maybe a trip to the local library also? I haven't painted a car in 40 plus years.

The Z starts perfectly and is getting fuel to both carbs but the engine has a chirp in the top end. The exhaust valves on both ends are quiet so it seems to be in the center. I noticed that the cam lobes are scuffed quite a bit. It happens as the engine gets warmer and I did a cold adjust before hand. The oil is very dirty and also dilutted plus the back end of the spray bar is missing. I guess I will readjust as many as I can and hope for the best......................Any takers

The machineshop left the towers on and only took off 015 so I did not need shims. When I pulled the valve cover i found the oiler tube broken off for the last two cylinders and laying upright on the right of the head. I am doing a cold valve adjustment and making a sling using a universal tailpipe kit to shore up the tube on both ends. will post pics when completed.

Reinstalled the tank using thick rubber filler hose and capped all the other tubes it is vented by a hole in the gas cap. Looks like the fuel is being drawn up to the pump and to both carbs. I now have a very loud screech in the cam near 4 and 5. Since machining the head I may have valves that are tight and that would explain a slightly jumpy vac gauge with 18 inches. No fuel leaks so I can put the inside trim panels back and carpet and look at the valve adjustment. Almost ready for sanding and primer.

Wrestled the fuel tank back in with some new inlet hosing and fitted it to the plastic piece from the top. Not much margin for error slight kink coming up from the tank. I capped all the tubes except the outlet and drilled a hole in the cap for venting. Both fuel bowls are getting fuel but she seems rough. I think my reman brake booster is the culprit. Mushy pedal and engine rpm goes up when it is pressed. We will attach the wires to the sender and start sanding and filling the body. Maybe a Holley is still in the future but for now the body work.

Fuel tank is cleaned and blown dry and exterior was primed and painted so that is ready to reinstall today. The local marine store had the filler hoses and caps for the other tubes on the tank. Should have everything back in place later and with gas she should start. Now we will see if the single mechanical pump does the job.