desertmonkey

So which is best for the stock domed SU's a Holley electric pump that puts out a max 7 constant that is designed for carbed cars or a HD mechanical in the front only? I vote mechanical once the tank is spotless and all the lines are opened.

That makes sense because it has no taiper but I will get a new mechanical pump that should work from a 240z. They all bolt on the same and have equal length arms and surely are better quality than elgippo local parts. Next job is pulling the driveline and trans. Rear main seal and clutch and new U joints. We had a local shop spentd 9 hours doing a rear pinion and mount. The filler plug was not about to come out easily but they got it done. These 2+2 models are a pain for parts.

So what if I get a pump for the front from Zstore for $67 and run off just mechanical? You might be right about the spring.

So maybe the spring was a gift from a prduction line worker at the plant. I have the round top Su's but the fuel pump on the front from O Rileys seems lame. Why not put the Holley and plate off the front? I'll get new lines and a filler neck hose from a boat repair facility. The 7 psi pump should feed the carbs. I will vent the tank by drilling a small hole in the cap. We will post some before and after shots on Photobucket

:finger:Pulled the tank on our 260Z in 3 hours it was not very dirty inside which is good. The sending unit also was good and since I drained 5 gallons it was right on reading a quarter tank. But this makes no sense inside rattling around was a coil spring 4 inches long and about a inch and a quarter diamenter clean as a pin.........What is it for and do I need it? I will put 3 gallons of white vinegar inside and caps all the lines into the vents etc. The new Holley pump should fix the issues because I suspect that the old pump was spitting and did not get it up to the front pump. Do I need that spring or maybe it has been in there for decades?

anybody know if that mechanical pump up front is enough to feed both carbs? Took the old electric off ran a filter to the tank and may add another before the pump. At first I noticed both filters at the carbs were just getting trickles of fuel I vented the tank differently and now they seem to be filling. Also since she is getting fed I have 19 inches of steady vacuum at 775 rpm idle. All the lines are hose except the main underneath so no perculation in Arizona.

well took the electric pump out jumped into the mechanical and no change on hard accel. Filters in front at both carbs still not filling up. Maybe cleaning the tank and installing the Holley pump will do the trick. We are removing trim and exterior panels and sanding her now.

I have narrowed down my issues with my adopted 260z to fuel starvation. Sediment in the tank sloosching around gets caught in the pickup. My options are either dumb some Berrymans inside and pray or roll up my sleeves and pull the tank. I plan to pull the electric pump off and blow out the lines and run multiple filters to see if the mechanical pump will draw the fuel to the carbs. Either way I will get a Holley pump because the filler pipe has a leak at the base so the tank will have to come out anyway. Is there an easy way to get the tank out I looked at the hoses connecting it and it is like a octopus in the rear. Why am I doing this well because my timing settings are dead on and she loses power at 3000 rpm and you can see fuel trickle to the carbs.:bulb:

This car is starting first time no throttle applied on fumes because only a trickle is getting to the carbs. Tomorrow the tank comes down for cleaning and to look at a leak from the filler pipe. I will install the Holley pump and toss the pulsing pump and redo all the lines. That should have her back on the road soon.

if anyone is still viewing my posting I hooked up the timing light ans she was at 20 degrees so I pulled the vacuum line and moved the dizzy back. She is at 7 degrees BTDC with 18 inches of steady vacuum and no bacfiring on accel. However the fuel bowls are getting trickles into them and not filling. We are pulling the tank for cleaning and repairing the filler neck leak and installing the Holley pump without the mechanical. She gets paint Nissan red

I have a theory: the car starts but I see no fuel in the filters at the carbs. I pulled the pump off the engine a worked it manually......nothing. Crud is still in the tank and that is deminishing the flow through the rear pump and so on downstream. When I get my timing light if the setting is close I will know that she has fuel starvation and the tank will come out for thorough cleaning. When she had a consistent fuel flow in the past she sailed uphill and on the highway. I can still paint the car while the tank is out and replace all the lines and filters.

My repaired timing cover is bone dry,the leaks came from the fuel pump and inspection plate for the chain. Guess since I have smooth accel on light throttle and she backfires on hard accel my timing is still off. I can pull the oil pump and reposition the dizzy to try to improve the timing. She starts fine now but I'll replace the starter and cables for good measure and if this all works she get sanded down and ready for paint.

I just got our 260Z 2+2 running that we got from a junkyard however I need a timing cover and headers. Right now she sputters and backfires on accel trying to get up the driveway. I suspect the timing is retarded but the brake booster seems weak and that is rebuilt for a 280Z 10 inch diameter. When we fired her up she was at 1400 rpm with steady 17 inches of vacuum I got her down to 1000 than 800 and the vacuum fluctuates between 14 anf 15 slightly at idle. Could my timing be off a tooth or two causing this?

This is a 1974 stock 260Z with twin SU's and she is now getting good fuel to the bowls and starts easily and idles relatively smooth. I will sort out the cover leak and get one on line I hope. The domes were low on ATF and I may be very close on the timing mark. Perhaps the pickup for the electronic ignition is a little off also but we a close. Perhaps tonight or tomorrow but at least we can move her around easier in the drivewy. Anyone have a front timing cover and a set of headers?

Our Z has a leaking front cover I need another, cleared restriction in fuel system she starts up, brake pedal spongy and rpm go up when applied, hold steady 17 inches of vacuum drops to 14 when braking, fair acceleration up to 3000 than flat, the engine temp is good and so is the oil pressure, does not deisel on shut down,occassional she backfires on hard accel. How close am I???????????????????? Sounds like maybe I am a tooth off on the distributor so advance is lagging and I need a timing cover anybody.

Well if I prime the mechanical pump she fires right up and runs off the gas can smoothly. She is up on ramps so I shall pull the pump and hoses off the rear and blow everything out. So with gas in the front I can reconnect the lines and since she is at 800 rpm the rear pump will be on and we will see what happens. Thanks to everyone

Here are some photos of the garage queen. http://photobucket.com/desertmonkey

I primed the pump she fired right up and held 20 inches of steady vacuum at 1000 rpm and ran until she reached midpoint on the temp gauge. I still have to sort out a fuel issue because she starts dropping rpm. There were no visible leaks and she idled smooth with a clean exhaust. We did not try accelerating because we wanted her to maintain idle first. We will load photos and video later on Photobucket. We are closer

OK I have some pics on an SD card so how do I get them posted you you can see our speckled trout? I am new at this

I tried 3in1 oil , 10w 30, ATF and 20w and the only issue I've had is the well runs dry quickly and so I have to keep adding with the eyedroper. I have taken these round domed carbs apart several times and they still slurp the oil down. Does timing cause something like that?

I pulled the pump and valve cover just to make certain that the eccentric was not loose. I remounted the pump flush with a new gasket without a spacer. There is 4 gallons in the tank but nothing at the pump. With a charged battery she cranks strong and on starting fluid no bacfire and clean at the tailpipe. For now once she gets running I just want to be sure there are no leaks and she holds a steady idle and vacuum. I will try posting some pics today but she ain't pretty outside.

With a fully charged battery it looks like all we need is fuel. There is gas in the tank but not much so with a small can and some hose hooked directly to the mechanical pump we will try to start her. If that works I go to the tank and pull the lines and blow them out. So much for Friday the 13th

I took my air hose and shot some into the fuel line back to the tank and also going to the carbs. Think my starter windings are heating up so I will get another but for now the battery is getting recharged. I will post some pics later of the crank, distributor and rotor and wire positioning.

I have a very loud distinct clicking sound and after several attempts it will crank I found that the main terminal from the battery is loose at the solenoid and the plastic front is brittle so I will replace the starter and cables.

Our reassembled 260z engine was finally started and pegged at 1400 rpm. Got her down to 1000 and she sputtered and quit. Now she is starved for fuel. I pulled the line going into the mechanical pump and it was bone dry. I had to call a time out because it was getting to me. One other thing the vacuum at 1400 was 15 inches and steady so I must be close. Someone tell me where is #1 located on the cap for proper firing order? Are there pictures on the web that show it?