81na ZX

That engine is HUGE! long and its taller than the firewall

Autometer Street Rod Gauges: http://hp.autometer.com/products/street_rod/old_tyme_black/old_tyme_black.html Westach makes a bunch of gauges that are, um, interesting looking

I personally REALLY like the R series. What makes them different from the A or B is a deeper lip. Thoes are R style 16-85 -6 offset in the front and 16-90 -13 offset in the back R 15-85 -6 and R 15-95 -19 will also fit. On a ZG Ofcourse they don't have any sizing for a plain-jane s30, only the 240ZG and s130 They suggest : R 14-80 -6 Fronts and R 14-85 -13 rears for a s130 DISCLAMER: Picture courtesy R.S. Watanabe

How big are the pieces? Usually bits of metal are bearings. Could also hypothetically be pieces of valves.

A R200 will take just about what ever you can throw at it. a R180 is a bit weaker. Once you go R200, your biggest problem is the axles - most notably the U-joints in them. You'll need to convert to the later CV axles. But, a 280's R200 is just about as close to a bolt-on you can get.

well if they are F8(classic 8 spoke), they could be +25, +30, or +35. If they are F8F (8 spoke, FWD offset), +27, +35, or +40. The offset should be cast, usually on the back side of the center - unless its a multi-piece/modular wheel. a +25 16x7 would be a 4.5" offset

A Z, or ANY datsun/nissan never came with a rotary from the factory. After they were "developed" by Wankel, NSU sold the rights to one manufacturer per continent - GM, Mazda, NSU. The designs were farily unfinished, thats why the GM rotary never made it into production. They only cars to ever have rotaries factory installed in them were Mazda's and NSU's. ofcourse I don't think NSU's were ever sold outside Germany. I think there were a couple NSU's copied by Soviet companies though, but they are really not a factor to any of us. Rotaries do inject oil into the combustion chamber. They have little pumps on the front cover. Inject at a rate of something like 1000:1. You could remove the pump, as on 12a's and earlier they are run by vac, so if you go to Weber's, they don't have the port Then you just add oil to the gas tank. Rebuilding is really easy, there are very, very few parts. Gaskets and 3 apex seals/rotor.

You mean like these: I had no idea the FWD DET was so common :stupid: Learn someting new every day.

Was this a question about swapping into Z's or into Silvias????? 240sx (silvia/180sx) - a RB will fit And really easy too, you just buy a clip, unbolt the frame crossmember with the engine mounts and bolt it into the 240sx chassis. It just bolts right in But you have to ask yourself why? What do you gain over a SR20DET swap? SR20: cheaper, easy, nice power capability (4-500 on stock internals) good weight distro. RB: $$$, not as easy, very nose heavy, crazy HP potential. RWD vs. FWD SR's? Different mount points. And the RWD SR has a clutch fan, FWD doesn't. A friend of mine has a USDM Pulsar w/ a sr20det and AWD swapped into it, the RWD sr will not fit that chassis like the FWD won't fit the S13/14/15/S30/130 chassi. Anyway, before they got rice-popular, RWD SR's were cheap and pleantyful and FWD sr20DET's are rare!

The bigger problem is the Bores. the RB30 uses ~87mm bore, the RB20 is a 79mm bore... Thats 8mm to make up either way. And the 20 has tiny valves. A 25 head on a 30 block would be much much better. Anyway - any RB engine will mount into a S30/S130/z31 chassis with the 200zr mounts. HOWEVER, custom mounts would place the engine lower and farther to the rear. AND either way, you almost certnally need a custom plenum, as the stock one that crosses the valve cover is high. If you put the engine REALLY low and cut hood structure, you can leave the stock plenum on. The RB26 has a front opening Plenum so that doesn't apply. Any RB engine will need a new oil pan and sump unless its a RB20 out of the z31, but you don't want that engine, less than 200hp stock But the 200zr sump and pan will bolt onto any other RB block (as stated above)

a roots type is an impeller which takes the place of your manifold. Belt driven (obviously), directly shoving air into the engine. No room for an I/C, quite innefficent, but compact. GM uses them on the 3800s, Mazda on the miller-cycle Millenia, Jackson racing SC are roots type.

OK, so I'm a noobie at all this wheel crap. My other cars either had lots of wheels that fit easy (DSM) or no wheels besides Panasports (4x3.75 Lotus and 4x110 early RX-7). So I have no ideas about this whole backspacing to offset thing. Reading descriptions doesn't help - I mean I get the ideas but, never can find any real numbers to compair :stupid: SO.... Short and simple, what will it take to fit on a 240sx wheel on my 81? What size spacers?

The first Mazda turbo was the 1984 JDM RX-7 GSL-SE. Here we got the fuel injected 13B, there they got the fuel injected turbo 12AT. I don't know of any turbos before then, as their cars were 90% carbed back then. As for turbos being fragile.... I have 110k on my stock turbo'd talon and it runs fine. the turbo is stil in great condition. Some of the old turbos might have been more problematic due to poor design. Modern turbos are well lubricated with engine oil from large passages and water cooled, with proper care they last forever. even with improper care, they still last as long as most the rest of the engine. Proper care means not turning the car off right after you get on it - letting the turbo cool off. Cutting it hot bakes the oil in the lines, leaving coke deposits clogging flow. However with modern water cooling, the turbo stays cool enough for the oil to drain out. And innefficent supers... Roots type are totally innefficent, something like 20% losses. Centerfugals are much better, cause they are the compressor half of a turbo. Example - on a Top Fuel drag car pushing out 6000hp, almost 1000hp is lost in blower use