9teen7t240z

Montezuma, I wish that you had posted your recommendation just a few hours earlier. I met with Les earlier today, but we were meeting on a different matter and we had little time to talk about reproduction targets. Having said that, I did mention an earlier post requesting gaskets/rubber replacements for the air cleaner assemblies, and...lo and behold....Les had a solution. He already has a nice fix that he uses on his air cleaner assemblies and even took the time to show me how it works. MUCH more practical than having these reproduced, as it is both cost-effective and has the looks and functionality of the original parts. I'll have to go back through the thread to see whyo requested this, but I'd recommend that anyone who wants to replace their aging air cleaner box gaskets may want to give Les a call. Mike

John, Good suggestion. I had already planned to contact a number of suppliers regarding their "want lists", but thought this might be a better forum since many Z enthusiasts have probably stopped requesting certain items as they have been NLA for so long. But, I'll be the OC later this afternoon and may as well drop by MSA while I'm there. When I was restoring my Z, the front turn signal lenses and assemblies couldn't be found anywhere. Has some one since began reproducing these, or, are they still scarce as hen's teeth? Also, seems that front valances (all 3 pieces) were all but impossible to find.....especially at anything that resembled a good price. Does anyone know if these are currently being reproduced? Thanks again for everyone's input.

While reading the various posts, it seems that one or more of the members are either working on or already completed the headlight lens covers. I've also heard from one member who is working on the stainless steel trim pieces, for either the Gnose or the stock Z, or both. Consequently, I'm getting the impression that either the headlight lenses and trim pieces are available now, or will be soon. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I really don't want to "re-invent the wheel" if someone has already invested time and money into reproducing these parts. Kurby's suggestion about window rollers might be a no-brainer. Especially, if these same rollers were used throughout the S30 line. Threshold plates have already been noted as a possible target. The suggestion from Stanley on turn signal switches could be viable......am wondering just how many different switches were used from 1970-1978? Does anyone know the answer to that one? Mike

Eurodat.....thanks for the info. If you are already working on Euro lens reproductions for the S30's, and intend to make them available for purchase by the Z community, I'll scratch those from my list. The intent behind the thread is to find targets that nobody else is currently reproducing......I think that the market is too small to have multiple suppliers for most of the parts. Mike......the series 1 fuse box cover/ashtray is a great recommendation, as I had to pay for a small fortune to buy a nice used one off ebay. And that was 8 years ago.....I might not find one at all today. Do you know whether anyone is currently reproducing the entire series 1 console assembly (console, choke plate cover, fuse box cover, etc.)? It seems to me that if you put a new fuse box cover onto an older console, years of fading on the old console could make for some undesirable contrast with the new component parts. Just thinking aloud. Phil, thanks sooooo much for the photos:) This will make the project much easier to visualize. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.......please keep your thoughts coming!

So since these headlight covers were originally an aftermarket item, I guess proper fit and appearance would be the objective? There would be no need to conform to original design? Also, am guessing that I'd need to find the respective covers, the frames, and the respective headlight buckets in order to give the engineers something to work with. Would you happen to have any close-up pics of the frames (trim), Phil?

Am loving these "low tech" suggestions! While they lack glamour, they are parts that eventually everyone could use......and should be very easy to reproduce without having to meet massive production commitments. Keep them coming, guys (and ladies).....

Phil, sounds appetizing. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a difference between the G-nose covers and the ones that were used for the stock S30's? And, if so, I assume the trim pieces were different as well? Finally, were the trim pieces for either or both made of stainless steel or aluminum? Any help that you can provide would be appreciated. (I always liked the look of the headlight covers but decided to go stock with my restoration). Mike

Hey, Phil.......your suggestion sounds interesting too. Shouldn't require alot of engineering or expensive tooling to repop those. Might be difficult to find a useable example to use as a proto-type, though. (Unless you're volunteering one???)

Those are all excellent suggestions, grretc. I had already considered attempting the reproduction of complete tail light assemblies for the 240z's. The Euro/Jdm could probably dovetail off of that, as I suspect the primary difference in the two would be the lenses. As for door panels for 240z's.....I thought that they were already being reproduced. Maybe I'm thinking of the panel skins. One would think that it would much easier to reproduce the actual panels than it is to correctly repop the skins. Another good suggestion. I'm always amazed that nobody has put together a complete nut/bolt set for the Z as of yet. Nothing is more frustrating than having to attach your new parts to your nicely painted body with old, tired, rusty hardware. That's another great suggestion. Anyone else???

Happy New Year, CZCC, I hope that I am not about to open Pandora's Box with this thread, but here we go anyway:) I'd like to get everyone's input/thoughts/recommendations on S30 parts that are no longer available that might generate sufficient demand to explore having them reproduced. As many of you know, I am currently doing restorative services (mostly chrome plating) through a facility in Southeast Asia. This month, my partner will be going overseas to begin an exploratory mission to source factories that may be able to reproduce parts at an affordable cost. Obviously, we won't be able to source prospects for the full spectrum of NLA parts, so we are most interested in those that are in high demand. In the past month alone, I've read threads suggesting things such as fuel bowl floats for SU carbs, aluminum door sill plates, and bumpers, and gear shift knobs. I know that there are many more parts that are impossible to find that may be suitable for reproduction. My thinking is that, after getting your input/requests, then I can start a poll in order to prioritize pieces to be targeted for reproduction. I appreciate everyones feedback here, and, once again, Happy New Year! Mike R.

Hmmmmm.......and all I thought one ever really needed for a long trip in their Z was their Hagerty Roadside Assistance card and an Ipod loaded with tunes from the '70's (for when I get tired listening to my original AM Radio)

If I'm not mistaken, I believe that these sills were originally made using an anodized aluminum coating. In order to get a high quality shine, it is necessary to first remove the anodized coating. That can be done by intensive buffing with alot of elbow grease, or can be done chemically using any number of "home remedies" such as bathing in Drano, etc. Carl's idea of boiling in lemon juice may work as well for removing the coating. After which, you would buff and polish to achieve the level of shine that you desire. (I'd try the lemon juice first, as it is more environmentally friendly and can be re-used to marinate your trout or salmon) .....just kidding....don't recommend re-using it. If you don't want to hassle with it, I do offer a service for chrome plating and polishing of aluminum and stainless steel parts. It can be a viable and cost-effective solution, but it is not very quick as I have the parts refurbished by a facility in southeast Asia. As a rough estimate, I would guess the cost of polishing your sills to be around $30. each, but would need to allow 4-6 weeks for the turnaround time. If you want more information on that service, feel free to send me a PM. To Carl's point, I think that I'll check with my SEA sources to check on the feasability of having these sills reproduced there. Good luck with your project! Mike

Wade, I've about come to the conclusion that you're right. I can't find any way to separate them. Guess I'll use the breaker plate assembly from the donor dizzy.....at least it has much more fluid movement for the vacuum advance mechanism. Looks like I'm also going to have to disassemble the rest of the distributor and remove the shaft in order to get anything inside the body to clean the debris out. And I thought that this was going to be an easy job....

Thanks alot, Zedhead and Wade, Have downloaded the FSM from xenon's and have checked the manual on the distributor. It did show how to remove the braker assembly, which I had already done. But, unfortunately, it didn't tell how to separate the breaker plate from the breaker spring. I will check out the assembly for the wire spring clip that you mentioned, Zedhead. Thank you, too, Wade. I checked some of the sites you listed and it does appear that they have these reman dizzys in stock. Think I'll proceed with the mission at hand, and simultaneously order a reman unit. That way, with a little luck, I'll end up with a functioning spare when all is said and done.

Thanks alot, Zedhead and Wade, Have downloaded the FSM from xenon's and have checked the manual on the distributor. It did show how to remove the braker assembly, which I had already done. But, unfortunately, it didn't tell how to separate the breaker plate from the breaker spring. I will check out the assembly for the wire spring clip that you mentioned, Zedhead. Thank you, too, Wade. I checked some of the sites you listed and it does appear that they have these reman dizzys in stock. Think I'll proceed with the mission at hand, and simultaneously order a reman unit. That way, with a little luck, I'll end up with a functioning spare when all is said and done.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on how to separate the movable contact breaker plate from the stationary one? Also, while on the subject, I can see a fairly large amount of grime accumulation on the inside of the body of the distributor. Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to clean that? Finally, any thoughts/recommendations on the type of lubricant that I should use on the bearings, and other movable parts? Thanks for any and all recommendations.

Hi, Wade, Yes, my car is a driver (albeit a 90% restored one). I initially did attempt to source a reman dizzy for the car, but had no luck. Autozone, Napa, and O'reilly ALL claimed to stock the dizzy's, yet had none in inventory anywhere and couldn't tell me when they would have any. I didn't try Rock auto yet...guess I can give them a call. But, when this problem first arose, everyone's advice on this forum was to secure another dizzy and rebuild mine, using the best parts from each distributor (seems many others have had difficulty sourcing reman units). Having said all of that, I do still have 2 dizzy's and may as well try to make 1 good one out of them as opposed to waiting to try and find one at Rock Auto, then waiting for delivery, etc. I figure if this effort fails, and if Rock Auto actually has remans in stock, I can always go that route as a fall-back position. Thanks for your reply and advice, Wade. Mike

Hi, Dj, Thanks for the reply. Page 76, section 7 of the haynes manual deals with the dismantling and reassembly of the distributor. I can't state for certain that it is an original Nissan Distributor. It certainly appears as though it could be 43 years old. It is a manual transmission with points. And yes, am talking about trying to separate the point breaker baseplate (movable one) from the stationary baseplate. It appears as though there is considerable grime and corrosion between the two plates, creating alot of resistance on the vacuum advance arm (difficult to manually advance it, due to corrosion). Just figured that if I can separate the plates, clean and polish them, remove all corrosion and grime, then lube all moving points.....I'd probably have fixed my original problem. Hopefully I answered your questions. Mike

Hi, Everyone/anyone, Am trying to overhaul my dizzy from a 1970 240z. Presently, am trying to separate the two contact point baseplates from each other. My Haynes manual says to remove the securing screws to separate them. Yet, there are no securing screws (visible) that keep the plates attached to each other. Is there something I'm missing here, or do I just have a "screw loose"? Would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks, Mike

Wasn't aware that there was more than one Z Barn. Anyway, it is the one on the link that you sent, Jim. (Marysville, TN). While their site is still up, the phone message said that they have closed the business and were accepting offers on their entire inventory. Hmmmmm.....wonder if I can fit 400 z's in my garage???? Mike

I tried calling the Z Barn yesterday and was surprised to hear that they have closed down the business. Does anyone know whether this is just old news or a recent development? Mike

I apologize for the formatting on the previous post.....at least it looked good when I originally typed it. Anyway, the new prices for the interior trim parts to be re-chromed only are as follows: Part description price Center air vent (240z) $32.00 Round side vents $32.00/ea. chrome door handle escutheon $32.00/pr. Ash tray (240z) $28.00/ea. Cargo strap chromed hardware $98.00/set of 8 pieces seat belt/shoulder strap hardware $190.00/set of 14 pieces Heater panel faceplate $45.00 I believe that this covers everything that has been requested to-date. These prices are good for the domestic (US) market only and do include delivery with a minimum $100. order. I hope to be able to accomodate orders from Europe, Canada, and Australia in the near future, as we develop the logistics to enable you to direct-ship to the platers. Thanks again for your orders.....you have just one week left to order for the upcoming shipment. Please let me know via email or pm if you'd like to be included on this upcoming shipment, or on any subsequent shipment. Mike R. stoogeman_1999@yahoo.com P.S. Should you want the "full refurbishment" option as originally outlined on this thread, that will still be available at the prices quoted earlier in this thread.

Update: I have had numerous requests for pricing for the chrome plating only, as many of you would rather re-paint painted surfaces yourselves. In hindsight, I should have priced everything just for the "strip, dip, plate, and polish" of the chrome, instead of the final painting as people do like to have the opportunity to customize their cars. In that vein, I have put together a more detailed price list of chrome trim parts that will be priced without the final painting (where applicable). As the list is quite detailed, I may have to break it into a couple of posts. New prices are as follows: Part Description 240z 260z 280z Hood emblem $32.00 $32.00 $32.00 Roof emblem $32.00 $32.00 $32.00 Prices are Each piece Fender emblems $32.00 $32.00 $32.00 " " " " Deck lid grille $32.00 n/a n/a Series 1 240z only (each piece) Deck lid 240/260/280z $32.00 $32.00 $32.00 deck lid "Datsun" $32.00 $32.00 $32.00 Tail light bezels $80.00/pr. $140./pr. $140./pr. Fuel door knob $18.00 Chrome center caps (mags) $96.00/set of 4 $96.00/set of 4 $96.00/set of 4 Series 1 "D" hubcaps $320./set of 4 n/a n/a (includes re-chroming of center caps) New prices for the interior chromed parts will follow on the next post. Thanks, Mike

Wade, For me, it depends upon the situation. If I have a specific problem and am trying to troubleshoot the issue, I will typically replace or repair one "usual suspect" at a time, for the same reason you cited in your post. But, if I'm confident that I know what the underlying problem is, and yet have to remove some major parts in order to fix it, I'll often try to fix/upgrade/make cosmetic improvements while I'm into the project. A good example is what I'm working on now. I recently had a power loss issue and, thanks to the feedbackfrom the group here, was able to rather quickly ascertain that my vacuum advance on the distributor wasn't working. So, I needed to replace it. But, I figured that it is probable that I have the original distributor that was put on this car, and that it may have never been serviced before. So, now I decide to remove the distributor and service it as well. All the while, I had been planning for months to finish detailing the engine, so, have now removed both the inatke manifolds and exhaust manifold, heat shield, and carburetors for polishing/cleaning up. Seems likie a good time to repaint the engine block....so tomorrow I'll be steam cleaning the engine and preparing it to be painted. Along the way, noticed a few tired looking, albeit original, braided water hoses....so may as well replace them now. The metal lines could use a good facelift too, so now they're on the list. Since I've had to drain all the coolant, decided to flush the cooling system while I'm there. It's hard to imagine that a faulty vacuum advance on a distributor could lead me to where I am now:) Mike

Without knowing the year of your Z, it might be a difficult question to answer, as there may have been changes made throughout the years. Having said that, I removed the heat shield from my 1970 240 just last week, and didn't need to remove the intakes for that. On my car, it was 4 or 6 bolts that attach the shield to the intakes, and then the 2 springs that secure the heat shield to the throttle linkage. Once they were all removed, I just dropped the shield and removed it. Perhaps you have a/c equipment in place that might be making it difficult to maneuver? Mike