onemore240

Gunner - All you have to do is click Collection => Pick a number => Pick a wheel => click Spec It not only lists the price and offset, but the weight per size & width.. http://www.speedstar.co.jp/collection/ssr_reverse/spec.html

well -- thanks for all the kind words guys it really warms my heart that a car can bring such compassionate guys to one insiginificant spot in the vast sea of cyberspace. my radiation starts soon...we'll see how that goes -- I dont think my condition will be terminal, my doctors said I have a high chance of finding a marrow donor due to my O bloodtype

Sorry if it came off as me being unappreciative....everyone has on and off days...and there's no point in me spending any more money in the Z car seeing as I was diagnosed with Leukemia today... Been fun in the Z world guys

Watanabes don't come for FWD as far as I know....those watanabes I found are for 240SX ... which share our 4x114.3 bolt pattern...I dont care about spacers, what size spacer would I have to run, and Johns reply was just a bunch of technobabble this was a yes or no you have to run a zero offset wheel question. Good luck finding watanabes number too...

You realized, that had NOTHING to do with my question =P All I wanted to know, is if I had to use a zero offset wheel or if i could pick up some 16x7 +25 / 16x8 +26 watanabes I found

I was under the impression rear wheel drive cars could run any offset with the use of spacers...then in reading the post by Mike240 which he said Z's require a 0 offset, I got confused. Just wondering the validity of this statement. What is the best offset for the Z?

SSR Type C or SSR Competition (Same thing Type C in Japan Competition in the US) are a thin 5 spoke wheel which is VERY light and comes in our particular 4x114.3 boltpattern. The website is www.speedstar.co.jp the navigation is in English but the spec/matching is in Japanese. An online translator can be found at http://babelfish.altavista.com

because primer looks just so damn good =) who needs paint anyway...unless its Lexus Gloss Black =)

Yeah, i posted before I read....the 1234 and 7 are shock options...I'm going to go with #7 which are KYB GR2s... I don't know why they have the application key at the bottom with different lablings at the top of their application table....

Thanks a lot for the calculator...it seems my setup would give me exactly what I wanted. I decided to run a 268/.472 advertised cam and pick up some rebello valve springs. @ $4.50 each seems like a pretty good deal. I've also chosen my suspension setup but need to choose a springrate. I've chosen to go with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs, and KYB GR2 shocks which are #7 in the Ground-Control application guide. Also, are there any adjustable camber plates and pillowball upper mounts offered for the 71 240Zs?

Must be pretty special to say you have 1 off bilsteins...congrats again. I was thinking of running Ground Control weld on coilovers with eibach springs and KYB adj. shocks...what spring rates do you have on those?

weight....an early 70/71 240Z weighs 2320 lbs full trim =)

Yeah I had these on my 240SX...wasnt a good time..but they look great...is my offset a correct one? thanks for the quick reply. Also, what about tire sizing?

I was thinking about getting a set of 15x7.5 front and 15x8 SSR Reverse Mesh wheels. I was wondering what a good offset would be for em? +38 with a 5mm spacer? Also, will they clear a 240SX/280ZX disc conversion Here's the wheel...opinions would be nice too...they're my #2 fave wheel after Watanabe RS8s but thats more for the 86 crowd I guess.

I also looked in the download section and couldn't find the L engine calculator..maybe I'm just blind but would it be to much to ask if you could provide me with a link?

*sigh* where to begin? I'll try to be to the point as possible. 1. L28 and L28et motors are essentially the same the only difference is the turbo head, dished pistons to lower compression, exhaust manifold. There are a couple but I cant remember exactly. What year L28et did you pick up? You should replace the engine mounts as they're prob really messed up. Don't bother with soft ones..might as well get some hard urethane mounts. Also you might want to look into getting a 4.11 R200 rear and a ZX 5 speed to have the appropriate gearing for the L28et. bolt em up and hoist em in and bolt it down then wire it up a Haynes or Chilton manual will be priceless during these steps. The whole thing should be pretty straight forward. F/I isn't my thing. I like to build high comp N/A Z's but you can build a MBC for like 7 bucks from home depot, or you can get a Blitz SBC-iD which is about $450 but the best on the market, another good one is the GReddy/TRUST/Gracer/GREX Profec B depending on what part of the world you're in at a cool $270, turbo wise you might wanna look into a T3/T4 hybrid and some new injectors and an aftermarket standalone computer. No matter how much you tune the factory ECU...it wont be as flexible or easy to do as it will with a standalone once you get the hang of it. Building a fast turbo motor isn't cheap if you want to do it right.

Why not run a R180 3.90 which 2Many has turned me onto This saves 20 lbs over the R200 again pointed out to me by 2Many (thx a lot). Another note, whichever disk/caliper conversion you decide to you; make sure you upgrade your brake master cylinder for proper fluid pressure/movement...if not...it’s not fun -- trust me I know from personal experience.

Congrats...if you dont mind me asking..how much was the whole thing? They look really nice I hope you enjoy them.

As you know, F54 blocks came with flat top pistons from the factory =) You'd have to get your block sonic tested to see if it can take the abuse you're about to dish out to it. If everything is good and the block can hold up, then bore it 3mm -- in doing so allow enough room so you can run 89mm KA24 pistons which are also flat top so there will be no compression drop, in fact, it should go up. I believe with this combo it gives you +-0 deck making the piston drop at top dead center w/ no contact with the head and allowance for maximum combustion inside the cylinder. Also, as aforementioned, your head makes a big difference. With an early E88 head...the ones with the skinny uniform casting stamp on it...you'll come away with 3 L which is your goal. With an N-42 you should be about 2940cc +- some...I think minus. If you can find it, the E31 head will give you a bit MORE than 3 L with higher compression...put 280Z valves in it and port polish and balance the whole blockand you'll have a killer stroker motor. -- Daniel

how about this one?

you're prob. running to much choke...is it still an L24? or are you running SUs on an L28? ...maybe you have a vac leak...or a bad choke cable

The Z will double as an autocross/daily car...so I need to find a cam that is balanced between drivability and all out performance. If I was doing a drag car on the other hand. like a weekend driver/strip car I'd just go with a LT1 block with LT4 intake manifold & ported LT4 head with a HOT cam and shorty header to make a good 400 NA hp...but since its autocross I tried to find a good mix of factory parts inorder to reach my hp goal of 275 rwhp...I could always save and slap individual throttles on it and use a larger choke for more high end power..but for an autocross i'd have to use a midsize choke for good low/mid... jeez...its soooo hard to build an autox car --- I figured if use the early E88 head that came with the 70 240 and put it on the L28 block and equip it with 280 valves and deshroud/port the head...i'd give me higher compression than a N-42 ...this comparison i used the LT1 vs LT4 head comparison...almost the same square port etc., except the LT4 head flows better and is thicker & machined better..not to mention aluminum ... Also what if I was to run a 260Z cam...I've heard of peopel doing this...but a cam that is good from lowrange to 6500 RPM sounds extremly enticing...any recommendations for dur/lift ?... My transmission choice..81-83 N/A ZX 5 speed is accredited to the fact that it already comes with an 3.90 R200...what cars did R180 3.90s come in? I figure for my hp goal 3.90 would be the best gearing..what about 3.54?

This is what I plan on running in my 70 240Z autocross / street car L28 block E88 head + 280 valves + port & polish + milled gasket Triple 38mm Webers or dual SUs from www.ztherapy.com Bored to 2.9L 10:1 comp pistons shot peened rods 2 3/4 inch header w/ 2 3/4 inch piping all the way back 5 speed w/ R200 w/ a 3.90 Lightened flywheel I was thinking about the E31 head but its aquisition is quite difficult isn't it? If anyone knows where to find one for a relatively good price (sub $700US) I'd greatly appreciate it. Also, what about an N42 head with dual SUs? Also, a cam suggestion would be awesome...cant seem to find something I like.

Anyone know which model number / where to get that airdam? looks like its from MSA...that car would like realllly nice with some ZG or IMSA flares -- Also -- does anyone know which wheels are on that car yet?