busted240

Figured out the problem. Alternator was not charging fully so it was having breakup at higher rpms. New 60amp 280zx alt fixed everything she runs beautifully again.

Everything came off the l24 and were in working condition. I will need to put a fuel pressure gauge inline to verify it is getting enough fuel. The car a were rebuild prior to running them on the L24 but that was about 2 years ago.

I have a 73 240z in which I removed the L24 and dropped in a L28 n42/n42 with n36 intake and 3 screw round top SU's. Car ran good before no problems. I dropped in only the head and block no accessories, kept the L24 distributor, coil, starter and alternator. Now, when I drive the car it will break up once it hits about 4,000 rpm's. I can not get it to rev past it pretty much falls on its face. I have gaped the NGK plugs at .032 and that seems to be the best for the car. It runs great until it hits 4K then it just won't go. I checked the battery voltage it is 12.7 with the car running. I have tried adding and removing fuel at the carbs to no avail. Is there anything else I can try? I am really eager to get it going but I can not figure this out. Also, I am going to be getting a 60 amp alternator for a 81-83 z and use the MSA adapter plug to install it. Any other suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

Yes, this motor has the CAS in the distributor. I had read the differences between the L28e and ET shafts, so as long as I use the 240z diz and shaft it should fit the turbo motor oil pump? Guess I can always use the L24 one if necessary. Tuning I am not too worried about. It is a weekend / fun car not needing perfection right now. It will have the full efi swap in a couple months either way. Thanks for the info.

I understand a head swap would be easier, but my motor is losing compression aside from the head problems. Has been for a while now, so I will just have to swap over a new (long)block in the future as well. This is why I want to know about the turbo motor. I can get a L28 around here for $250 + depends since supply is limited with out going 300+ miles away. If I can ever find one in a junkyard it would still be $210+ and not knowing the condition. The turbo motor I will be getting for free really since I have helped him with his Z so much, this is why I ask because it will be the cheapest and easiest to obtain.

Ok so this may seem like a weird question but my stock L24 motor has been giving me a ton of problems and is losing compression as well as the valve stem seals are leaking now. I searched but found nothing of this sort, only people trying to run a L28ET on stock 280z N/A efi system. I have a friend who has a complete L28ET motor sitting in his garage he will sell me for next to nothing. Less then a L28e would cost me for sure. My question is, can I take this motor, drop it in on my round top su's and run it as N/A for now? I want to do a full swap later on and run it on MegaSquirt, but don't have the money to drop on the EFI and all the other things needed to go from carb to efi. I know compression would be low, but compared to a badly running / dying L24 I can't see it being a huge issue. Can I run it with the L28ET distributor? What would I need to change to drop it in other then putting m carbs on it? Thanks for any help!

If you need just one side I will be replacing my passenger ones in about a week. I would send them for free as long as you cover the shipping.

For the clutch, have you checked to see if there is any fluid in the master or tried bleeding them yet?

They actually came packed with grease, new shim and retaining clip plus dust boot. My old ones were fine but I'll have to see if I can dig them out of the trash tomorrow .

Just thought I would add, it was a short lived victory. The other side wheel cylinder failed on me last night too:disappoin, not as badly as the drivers but it leaks fluid now. At least I have everything down to get it changed out quickly now.

I guess I would clarify it as higher pedal, it was always firm. The adjuster was sticking on the old one, took it out and cleaned it real good and now it doesn't. I adjusted them pretty far out, till they finally rub'd a bit on the drums and now the brake pedal is solid and the e-brake is working again. Thanks for all the help guys! My e-brake always goes all the way up, even before the brake problems. It does work perfectly though so I don't know what that means.It's kinda nice this happened in a way, now I got all new hardware and new lines in the back not to worry about .

Yes, %50 victory alright. The brake light no longer comes on, but I didn't get a chance to try and adjust out out anymore today. It feels like that is probably it, the brakes do work fine even though they nearly reach the floor still, and just get a firmer pedal if I pump it.

Correct. One wheel cylinder is brand new, clean and lubed. The other I removed and cleaned up a bit and put some new lube on the end of the adjuster but did not un thread the screw to check it. I am doing it with the drums off, and the adjuster did not extend out an inch so I will be checking tonight to see what's keeping it from going any further.

It's possible I am not adjusting them all the way out then. I will have to check them tomorrow, and try going further and see what happens. I can feel it clicking, as well as see the shoe's moving out ever so slightly. Now, since the shoes are not contacting the drums enough yet, would that make for the emergency brake not working as well? I can't find any reason why it stopped working since everything on that end looks good.

Yes, the adjuster is pushing the shoes outward towards the drum. The brake shoes are from MSA and match the removed ones identically. I did not measure the replacement drum but I got it from a buddy who parts out z cars, and it seemed to match my original one and has no cracks what so ever, looks very clean in fact.How far out does the adjuster go? I turned them until it felt very hard and stopped, but it did not seem to rub the drum at all still. I was afraid to go any further and risk breaking the wheel cylinder again.

Bleed both front and rear at the master and then at the brakes. Solid flow like it should but still have to pump the brakes once to get them solid. I adjusted the wheel cylinders out as far as I could and it still has no drag on either side. Am I missing something? These are brand new pads with only a few miles on them. Oh, and in case it matters the emergency brake has not worked since the wheel cylinder failed. It is hooked up properly and the cable works but it does not stop the car at all, assuming this is hand in hand with the rears not working.

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. The bowl never went dry, other then when everything was off and the lines were being replaced. I don't think there was any gunk or crud in the lines, they were fully drained and filled with new fluid while the brake lines were being replaced. Hopefully bleeding the master will solve the problem, I never had to bleed the master before, even when I first got the car and there was no fluid in the lines at all. Maybe that was just lucky, I'll find out tomorrow.Thanks guys.

When I bleed all four corners, fluid comes out the fronts in a steady stream like they should, while the backs only barley run out like a slow drip. That is what I was referring to since I can not tell with the peddle issue. Front brakes were not touched other then bleeding them to check for air in the lines. While they are "seating" would this cause there to be little fluid coming out during the bleeding process?

So a while back a piece of the wheel cylinder failed and broke off inside the drum damaging everything during a short drive. Now, I replaced the drum(scoring), wheel cylinder(broken and leaking fluid), hard lines(nut stripped) and brake shoes. After endlessly bleeding the brakes with my brother helping, I still can not get them to bleed. The front are fine, perfect in fact, but the rear is like it has air no matter how much I bleed it. When pressing the pedal while driving I usually have to pump 2 or 3 times before it catches and it normally just goes to the floor with the brake light in the dash coming on if I don't pump it. The car stops fine after that, but feels like the rear is not working. Is there something I am missing? I am bleeding from passenger rear to driver rear and while doing so the fluid just comes out dripping not the normal solid gush that it use to. Any help or tips would be appreciated greatly.

I would say for something like this it is best to get some bad l24 blocks / heads for free and give an attempt. I see them on craigslist from time to time so it wouldn't cost you anything but some time. Have you attempted to contact that guy through youtube or something and asking for any tips / advice on your project? He might have some valuable information to get you started.

Well, I have been driving the Z around for a good 2500 miles now with no problems, fun car indeed. Just recently I started hearing this noise from the rear end of the car. It only happens when turning left or right and it only happens randomly, not all the time. Usually at higher speed / harder turns if I take it real easy around the corner (streets) it doesn't happen. I think it might be the diff but I am unsure and I don't notice anything loose or broken from under the car. A search brought up a lot of threads but I could find none with anything similar to my problem. Any suggestions on what I should check first? Just for reference, this is a stock L24 4 speed.

Ok, great news. I took your advice and checked the lines from the float bowl to the needle, bone dry. Even the float bowl on the rear carb was getting a small amount of gas inside it, so once everything was cleaned out it started right up. Runs good, needs a little tuning think its running a bit rich but at least its working. Thanks for all the help guys.

Your right, I was only referring to it making it into the float bowls. I will verify fuel is going through the lines from the bowls as well. The float level was adjusted as per the specs in the carb rebuild kit. As for the dizzy, I will also verify it is still hitting the #1 plug at TDC. Thank you guys for the replies so far.

Firing order was backwards for sure. Now it does fire off ether but won't without it. Even with the ether though the car does die and won't idle at all. I double checked to make sure both carbs are still getting gas. I'm currently cleaning the spark plugs and re checking the gaps and making sure the car isn't flooded from all the attempts to start it. Any other suggestions?

Counter Clockwise? I was told that it was clockwise. It is set at 1-5-3-6-2-4 though. Static timing is at 10 before TDC.