mdec
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I too think this one will go for closer to $20-25k than $40k but good luck either way.
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Agree with rossiz. I fitted Eibach's & Car stance now much more to my liking. Can't comment on the ride though - PU bushings fitted by PO seem to dominate the ride - it's harsh. How did your 280 end up with the Subaru ride height ?
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does it have factory A/C ? I thought these Car's were closer to 2600lbs.
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Can anyone describe/post (.jpg ?) a typical oem Z vacuum advance curve. I have heard that high compression L6 engines typically run better with lower initial mech advance with much higher (than stock) vacuum adv ?
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"I'm still debating if that's cutting it too close, running on Cali's pump gas. Would I have to run octane boosters? Do those things even work? ..." From my experience w/o question Octane Boosters do work if your select the correct brand. I have good luck with both NOS & AMSOIL. I was interesting to hear what dave said about going with the N42 head & a thicker gasket. Is there some calculation/model around that can calculate how gasket thk varies the CR ?
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am ready !
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zKars - thanks for the feedback. I got lucky & did not have any fit issues with the Dizzy. However...since installing the 123 my motor has been plagued by a really annoying 'miss' issue. The 'miss' seems to occur totally at random, perhaps 1-3x every 30 mins & does not appear to be dependent on engine load or temp. Have checked the dizzy hook-up, replaced the coil, plugs & leads & no improvement. Am running a MSD6AL with Accel 1.4ohm coil. I now have a new dizzy from 123ignition & will be trying it out in the next few days. My sense is that it may be something funky going on with the msd/dizzy combo, but I believe MikeW is running a similar setup & he had no issues. I will be interested in finding out how close a match you guy's had with your timing lights once you had completed your setup. I was way off at idle. ~ 15 deg programmed v ~ 7 deg measured. Rotating the dizzy a tad fixed the error, but I was surprised how far it was off. My timing light is pretty accurate. Any thought/help on this one will be appreciated !. Finally, I would like to mention that Customer support from Ed on this one has been exemplary - he supplied the replacement Dizzy with a minimum of fuss & I feel no pressure from him to return the original until I
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I plan to install my 123dizzy sometime next week. Have already loaded the mech curve ..something similar to the whitehead curve (above), but plan to run vacuum advance also as from experience this seems to provide the most responsiveness. Not sure where to start as far as the curve goes though - any ideas from anyone ? I was running a reconditioned 280zx dizzy before.
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Grannyknot, Thanks for supplying this data. That advanced curve looks very similar to what I am currently running (am going to confirm today). Any reason why you zero'd out the stock 123 vacuum curve?. What type Dizzy & idle/total #'s were you running with your old setup ? What improvements have you seen with this setup?
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Ed - to try & help you some more with your question. The typical upgraded Z (such as mine) with the L28 Carb fed engine, mild cam/compression (~10:1) manifold, 2.5" exhaust etc can suffer from pinging using oem type Distributers & will therefore be prime candidates for the 123ignition. 36 total advance seems to be the limit for these cars - in my case I am using manifold vacuum with ~ 18 deg idle (~1krpm), 34/36(~3.3krpm) Total. With your Dizzy I plan to increase the advance at lower rpm & back it off at higher rpm (as that's were I get the pinging). I will let u know how I get on next week.
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jon, I was using this fairly well known internet article Octane Boosters | Fuel Tech Experts as a point of reference for my OB selection. FWIW both the AMSOIL & NOS brands are purported to up the octane by ~ 2.0 units..'independentaly tested'. This review did include some brands which did only fractionaly raise the Octane rating as you & others have noted. But whether its +2.0 or 0.2, my only point is that the additon made an obvious difference for my Motor & may be worth trying for others who are in the same bind. At this point I'm hoping that a series of small incremental changes (cooler plugs etc) can provide the margin I need to run with the timing I want. My motor is not way out there on the CR, it's around 10:1 so I'm hoping it will not take anything to radical. I have heard others mentoin lower temp thermostats, but I'm wondering whether waterless (Evans) Cooling systems may make more sense as they claim to have the ability to reduce the occurence of hot spots that could be sites for the pinging/detonation - your thougts ?
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Gnosez is right. If you look at the bottle of octane boost, it will tell you what is in it. Usually xylene or tolulene or some combo of the two. It's been some years since I messed with this stuff, but tolulene is 114 octane if I recall, and xylene is 118. From there you can do the math. If you have 5 gallons of 92 octane and add 1 gallon of 118 octane, you'll end up with 96.3 octane. (5*92) + (1*118) / 6 total gallons = 96.3 octane. Tolulene gives 95.6. If you search "home brew octane boost" you'll see lots of sites and they talk about adding mineral spirits and ATF to the mix for top end lubrication. There just isn't any way for 8 oz of tolulene or xylene to affect the octane that much. It is plain ol false advertising IMO to say that it gives a 2 point boost and mean two decimal point boost, but that's really what they're doing. I screwed around with this on my 11:1 L28/E31 combo (shaved and ported and all that) and found that for my build I needed about 95 octane in order to run advance in the mid 30s. If I were to build a hot street motor I would always choose to reduce the compression and I would definitely go for a bigger cam than I did previoiusly (.490/280 is what I had). Mixing your own octane boost isn't fun, and it's damn expensive. A gallon of tolulene was about $10 when I was screwing with it, I think it's closer to $20 now ================================= Yes - there are 'bad' octane boost Products out there that do not do what they claim & with the benefit of hindsight going with a lower CR ratio is the way to go. With that said I do not have the time or cash to swop my engine & the octane boost I use is allowing me to run the Motor to close to it's full (timing) potential - no question. I also am not driving 10-15k a year in my Car so the additional running cost is tolerable. My advice to the guy's who are running higher CR engines with retarded timing is to try one of the more reputable brands - if it does'nt work they lose what - $10 ?. FWIW advancing the timing by ~ 3 deg in my Car increases Power by close to 20hp - I have the dyno data to confirm this.
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Not so sure abot those earlier comments regarding octane boost. I do believe the Industry gets a bad rap & a lot of it is self inflicted, but do your research pick a reputable brand that has been 'independently' tested to raise octaine ~ 2.0 units & used on the right Engine (ie L28 10:1 CR !) the improvements can be profound. My engine is running 10:1 CR & I has suffered from a pinging issue from day1. The 'pinging' is marginal though & I only ever hear it under heavy load. Right now I'm not looking to do anything radical with the Motor (replacing heads etc). I'm hoping that a succession of incremental improvements (cooler plugs, octane boost etc) will keep me in a SOA. I'm hearing a lot of talk about the need to keep the engine cool - was wondering wehther the waterless cooling systems may help here ? Evans the Manufacturer claim detonation issues can be reduced as the mix with a 180C BP is better at reduces 'hot spot' in the engine..
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Purchased the same Mallory Unilite on recommendation & module went bad In < 6 Mo driving. My understanding is that a significant portion of these distributers are now Manufactured in China & after inspecting the inards of my Mallory I can well believe that. Luckily(?) my module decided to go bad during the process of re-curving (I was swopping springs) - since discovered the modules are notoriously susceptible to eos/esd type issues. As i was planing more work on the Dizzy (= more handling of the unit) , I decided to go down the re-conditioned 280ZX route & purchased a recurved unit from a shop in ORE recommended by the guy's at Ztherapy. Find I can run with more advance (w/o pinging) than the Mallory stock setup - 19 idle, 36 total v previous 8 idle 28 total.