redzedsled

Thanks Jim D. for the PM, here are some pics as promised. I think you should be able to distinguish the pattern for the early Series I car with these pics but I would be happy to trace out a pattern for you and send it to you. The sheets are black but were sprayed with a grey primer in preparation for paint. I hope this helps for now... It might be noted that someone has welded the steel tool box doors from a later car, that is why they are in the pics, so as not to confuse you, this is a 12/70 car. The original sound deadening went pretty close to the front luggage riser trim from other stock pics I have seen. I believe the bitumen went up to about 1/2" or so with cut-outs for the the luggage strap screws. I obviously went as far as the tool box doors only. These bitumen sheets are long enough for a Series II 240z but not long enough for a Series I as they would need to be about 38.75" long and the sheets are only 32" long. If you have the tool box doors in the back then these sheets are plenty long enough. Perhaps another member might be able to supply some original pics of the rear cargo area to determine the correct position for your 7/70car. Rob

I used a product from ProForm Products, (Welcome to Pro Form Products). Is is available in a box with (2) 29"x32" sheets which is large enough to do the rear deck area (I traced the original pattern before removing the old). This bitumen material is a touch thinner than the original stock material but is quite close. It also has a very sticky adhesive which keeps it down firmly whatwith all the ridges in the rear cargo area and is paintable as well. This material is black in color and would be ideal for the stock restoration. Just another option...

One vote for "No Stripes" from the Great White North!

Very noteworthy observations, Dan. I have never seen jute behind the diamond vinyl luggage trim before either, but it is in the fiche. I was pointing it out as more of oddity than anything else. I had some left over jute so I decided to cut the pattern anyways. I have not actually tried to fit it yet, so I am not sure if the small screws obscure the fit as you mentioned. I cut this jute for this pattern just shy of the plastic trim that secures the vinyl to the body, so the screws would not effect the fitment. When I go to fit this piece I will let you all know how it looks. The length of the rear cargo jute pad is very important, mine was ripped towards the front of this pattern, so I coud not confirm the actual length, but I knew it was longer than that of later Z cars with the tool box in the back. So thanks very much for that confirmation. Regards, Rob

This what they look like...

Refer to Section 113-4 of your fiche. Item No 15, part number 74922-E4100. As far as variance goes, keep in mind that the transmission tunnel changed, the pieces that go behind the seat (70-71) were much different. Also the front carpet jute would have changed over the years whatwith the position of different carpet clamping methods. Also the rear cargo area changed as a result of the tool doors being moved to the hatch area. The jute on a 70-71 goes all the way up to the luggage riser trim, and the later cars are shorter as not to cover the tool doors. I've got both early 71 and 73 patterns and I see a broad variance. See images below... If you would like a PDF pattern file of the proper contour of an early 69-71 for behind the seats, PM me and I will send it to you...

I think it is very difficult to have patterns made. There were many variances to the patterns from the factory between the early 1970-71 cars and the later 72-73 models. There would be too many patterns to satisfy all owners from all model years. Plus it is very difficult to cut. I bought an old original set from Ebay and reproduced them for my own car and was very happy with the end result. I even made the jute pad for behind the luggage riser trim that you see in the Microfiche, but most likely have never seen in an actual 240Z. The English jute averages at about 3/8" thick, whereas the original jute was at least 1/2" to 9/16" in thickness. See original jute for reference...

That is a very fair observation, perhaps I should recant my previous statement of "exactly the same" and replace it with "very similair to". It is in my opinion that the jute, being a natural product, most likely would succumb to aging, especially when moisture is introduced. Thus the color over time would change with it. I could be wrong but jute is jute, and after forty years of abuse, it is likely to brown out. The "black latex" is more of a dark charcoal color with the color underneath being tan to light brown. This particular needle-punched jute undercoating came direct from the English source I provided, so yeah you are right there is a difference. Heritage Trim is the company that is reluctant to deal with the general public. I would recommend getting a sample sent to you from the English source, Coverdale, and be the judge for yourself. It is definitely thinner than the original 240Z jute, but can vary in thickness from 1/4" to 1/2". Zeddsaver at one time used to have this English jute brought in from the same source, but perhaps he has found another local source, i.e. Heritage Trim. Even though no one will see the jute, it still has an important role to play in the comfort of driving your car. Another thought on the darker original color could be that the early jute was impregnated with Bitumen. From what I have researched, Bitumen was commonly used to coat jute in its day as well. Perhaps the Bitumen coating wass a fire hazard thus they moved to Latex, I'm not sure. It seems all the English jute that is available now has the black latex coating. Also, jute is a broad term, and therefor there could be a darker source material that Nissan used, perhaps it might have even been horse hair. Horse hair has a much darker appearance and was used in the old antique cars in its day. All theory, but take it for what it's worth!

See pics... Here is the source... judge for yourself! Rob http://www.carcarpets.co.uk/underfelt-11-c.asp Another source for you... http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=min-c-8&Category_Code=MINI-cockpit

Jute for the 240Z was a black licked latex coated one side material often found in British sportscars. The black latex lick goes on top and the natural jute goes toward the body of the car. I managed to purchase some jute from a company in Ontario, Canada who imports this material direct from the United Kingdom, thus it is often referred to as English Jute. There is also a company as you mentioned in Vancouver, BC Canada that is primarily an upholstery service rather than a supplier. They have shown much resistance in selling to the general public, as it seems they deal with the trade people only. I must say that this jute material is exactly like the original 240Z material and is much darker, (with all due respect to Katz), than that of the material I have seen in this post. If originality is paramount for you, then this English jute is for you. There is a reason the more expensive European sportscars use it, as water just seems to bead over the black latex coat. It also possesses excellent sound deadening qualities to it as well.

$3.50 for shipping Air to UT

Here she be...

Sure... here are the pics. There is a few scratches, but nothing that could not be polished out...the pics don't really don't seem to do it justice. Rob

If you can find the older style ST springs that are painted gun metal grey. They are the linear style as opposed to the newer green ST springs that are progressive. I found a gently used set on FeeBay for $150.

I recently found a 4-speed shift knob map between the seats of a pick here in Canada. It's in great shape... are you interested?

Images of original jute padding that goes behind your seats for early Series I 240z.

The correct size is an M10 x 20mm long Hex Bolt with a "4" marked on the head.

I used a Dupli-Color Engine paint called "Cast Coat Iron". It is extremely close to the color you want without the cost.

Any problems with your shifter popping out of gear on you?

At this point the transmission is not in the car, so I don't have any pics at this moment. I will make a point to follow-up with some finished pics. Initially I mocked up the early boot with the 280Z 5-speed (see attached pic above), and was not an easy chore, but it did go on. With the later 280ZX 5-speed as I mentioned, the pin is much lower, so it allows you to grind down those huge ears enough that you are gaining an extra 3/16 or so for the large boot to go around it all. I could see why the small boot could be a problem for this application, however I have yet to actually test it out on the road. I have been keeping my eye out for other makes and models of boots that would be a better fit. I hope I don't have the same problem as you have had, but perhaps a different boot would be the ticket. Below see a side by side comparison of the two 5-speeds in question... these pics were taken before I starting grinding down the ears.

Just thought I would post an update and a few pics to demonstrate how the 5-speed in a Series I 240Z went. I chose to weld the transmission tunnel back to original stock specs. I drew out a plan at 1:1 ratio so I could match the contour of the drawing. I then fabricated a shifter by means of a few cuts, welds, and a little bit of straightening with heat to create an offset shifter that will not interfere with the metal in the transmission tunnel. I have now chosen to use a 5-speed from a later model 280ZX, the one with the close ratio gears. This particular 5-speed has a hole for the shifter pin that is significantly lower in position than the conventional 5-speed from a 280Z (please reference pic). The ears of the shifter supports have to ground down to about 1" from the base of the ears. Whatwith the lower positioning now, it gives me an extra 1/8" clearance between the the transmission ears and the body of the transmission tunnel, giving me a total of 3/8 total clearance. Now that the modified shifter has been installed, it brings back the center position of the shifter handle directly through the original position through the console. I made sure that there was clearance in all gears to ensure a smooth path to all gears without obstruction. The offset matched the difference in length from the 280ZX tranny and the stock transmission it came with. By modifying the shifter this way, the shifter worked out to be only about 3/8" shorter than the original s-shaped shifter it was made from. With all these mods to the shifter and transmission, I can now enjoy a shifter that comes straight up through an unaltered Series I console without hitting the console nor the body metal of the tranny tunnel. This lesson is only applicable to the Series I 240 owners, who want a 5-speed in their car. This 5-speed will marry up nicely against the 3.9 ratio R180 rear end. The only issue I have had is the fitting of the small shifter boot. Normally the shifter comes out the top of the boot, and in this case the shifter comes out the side of the shifter. The boot does still fit and stay in place but perhaps a better fitting boot could be used. The much larger rubber boot above it, fits without any obstruction, provided you use the later 5-speed from a 280ZX.

He is now on EBay as "datsun_stuff". You should be able to contact him through EBay. Click ID History and it will tell you his previous "handles" on Ebay. I hope this helps!

I just thought I should let all users know that this person is selling on Ebay currently (as of Oct. 16-2011) under the handle "datsun_stuff".

Here find attached original image of a NOS fuel hose clamp set. Note yellow zinc plating.