30 Ounce

This is the exact cam that I use on my 3.0. The idle is slightly rough but not objectionable. I have an E-88 head with welded combustion chambers, large valves and ported by Bowers Racing. Bottom end is all Robello parts. My SU carbs were also modified by Robello. This is a very fun engine to drive on the street or track.

I had a heck of a time adjusting the brake booster pushrod to the correct length. Setting it up like the factory service manual stated left a very long peddle throw. I kept adjusting until I liked the peddle feel. The rear brakes will drag and lock up if you go too far but just back up 1/8 turn and it should be perfect. I would lose the second proportioning valve. Should only have one.

I know what the lawsuit is about! These people were in accidents where the airbag did not deploy because of a faulty ignition switch. I've seen people with 5 lbs of stuff on their key rings. How much weight do you think these should be designed to handle?

I would rather be in an accident in a "defective cobalt" than a 70's Z! Don't get me wrong, I love my Z but it doesn't compare to the crumple zones built into modern cars. Most accidents would be survivable if people would simply wear their seat belts. I would bet that most of those killed did NOT wear seatbelts and/or there were extenuating circumstances to lead to their demise.

303 out of how many millions sold?

You can check out my audio setup in my garage. I used a single Alpine 10" sub in the spare tire well and have a 31 band parametric eq (an equalizer that allows you to choose any frequency and boost or cut). When I measured it to eq the sub I was surprised to find I had a flat response from 20hz to 200hz without any tweaking!

I use this a lot too. Actually have a few copies because they made 2 versions.: The Stereophile Test CD | Stereophile.com Tracks 20-31 are warble tones. They don't list them but they also have 1/3rd tones from 200hz to 20,000hz.

I use this for all my audio setup:TrueRTA Real Time Analyzer FAQ Page But I have seen this too and it might work well: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/rta/id298839433 Music is hard to setup stuff with. But if you know what pink noise sounds like its pretty easy to find holes or lacking frequencies.

What's your smog situation in Cali? A 280 Z with carbs on it won't pass smog...but if your just building for the track your fine. California doesn't mess around with stuff like this, they crush them if they catch you.

You could do what I did and use the spare tire well for a sub enclosure. I used 1 10" alpine sub and 300 watt amp and get a measured flat response from 20hz-200hz .sounds awesome. See my garage on this forum.

As mike said, try reversing one of the speakers + & - wires. If you connecting one of them backwards accidentally you will have no bass. Also try sealing the speakers to the box with silicone. That will make sure you have no air leaks.

Try adjusting the rod between the brake booster and MC. It made a huge difference on mine.

My piston's had eyebrows...Dave cut them slightly deeper after checking clearance.

I have a 3.0 liter F54 block built with Rebello's 3.0 liter kit. It has 2 mm longer stroke and forged JE pistons and Eagle 138 mm H beam rods. The rod stroke ratio is 1.7 which gives good dwell at TDC for my .6mm quench. Head is E88 with welded chambers (I think they were 39cc), porting, bigger valves and Isky's 490 lift 290 duration cam. We spoke with both Dave (Rebello) and Ron (at Isky) about compression ratio before we finished the head Dave thought 10:1 should be ok but Ron said 11.5:1 with my altitude and well designed combustion chambers should work well. We did 11.5:1 and I can run 34 degrees timing with 93 octane and no pinging. I run B8ES NGK and 160 degree thermostat. I do run 100 octane at the track because I'm pushing 7000 rpm and am a little worried about combustion chamber temps after 20 minute sessions. Last dyno was 203 hp at the wheels. Still running Rebello modified SU's.

I would use the SU's . You can modify them to make damn good hp.

Reverse the magnetic pickup wires.

Too late now but I would suggest a MINI Cooper JCW...

What I can't figure out is how the motorcycles with open pipes don't get tagged on a regular basis. Those things are far louder than my Z ever was. This is what gets me!! I can drive on the highway at 75 mph with the windows up and can't even hear my OWN radio because some a-hole on a Harley thinks open pipes are cool! Why don't they get pulled over?

The 260 E88 head had brass valve seats. I don't recall if mine had steel guides...they are now 'cause we changed them. The big problem with the E88-260 head is it has a big open combustion chamber with no quench. Welding the chambers allows you to build some quench area and shape a very good combustion chamber. I'm running 11.5-1 compression on 93 octane with 35 degrees timing and no pinging. 490 lift 290 duration cam helps bleed a little compression off. Bottom line is all the Z heads can be made into decent heads with a little work. The E88-260 just requires a little more.

You could have the combustion chambers welded & reshaped and have the steel valve seats installed at the same time. Thats what I did...

What have you done to your engine? 3.0? Cam? Porting? If its stock those are huge carbs...

Here's a link to my garage 30 Ounce's Garage :: 1974 Datsun 260Z The spare tire well is about 1 cubic foot and that's what the Alpine sub called for in a sealed enclosure. Measures flat from 20hz-160hz which I wasn't expecting but quite pleased with.

That strap is pretty loose. It's really just a fail safe thing in case the rubber mount fails. You should get a matching set of rims. That could be your problem. Are you a Z Car Club of Colorado member?

Did you get it aligned after the suspension work? I would lift the motor and check the mounts. Also the trans mounts and diff mounts. Could be just cheap tires...I've never heard of stinger.

I use the MSD triggered by the stock magnetic pickup in my 3.0 liter 260. I would skip te Mallory dist. Mine runs great.