30 Ounce

Something is definitely not right with the right rear wheel. It has been wrecked. Carefully check the rear suspension to see if it is a bent control arm or the mounting points are damaged.

N That is exactly why I got the rear control arms was to correct my rear toe!

I have TTT lower control arms front & rear and TC rods, Tokico springs & Illumina shocks, Dunlop Direzza Star Spec 225/50-16 (usually have 27 psi front & rear). I don't know if it's just this combo works well together (with the shocks set on 2)or what but it is NOT harsh in any way. Even the wife says it rides and drives way better than before. With the shocks set to 3 or more it gets pretty stiff. I use 4 or 5 at the track and it works great. I did everything at once so I'm not sure how much the TC rods contributed by themselves.

Mikuni's have 4 progression holes and don't have the bog issues that Webers have with only 2. That can be addressed as mentioned above.

Have you checked the grounds to the engine & body?

Also have 2003 Chrysler Town & Country for the family & 1999 GMC Savana 3500 for work (with 350,000+ miles) but technically these aren't in the garage.The light green is my dads and will be on its way to Florida after the interior and minor motor work is done.

I think ZTherapy stopped using Gross jets plus I think they were for the fuel inlet to the float bowls. How is your fuel pressure & volume? If the fuel level drops as you accelerate it will lean out at the top end like that.

Interesting, I've rebuilt 4 L series motors and never noticed orange paint on the cam. None were L24 though. 1 L26 & 3 L28.

You may have a reground cam, I've never seen orange paint on one and your base circles look small but it is impossible to tell by just looking at pics. Also as others have said you are pretty lean. Very strange for SM needles. If your positive you don't have a vacuum leak then I'd try baking the timing down to 10-12 and check the AFR's again.

Working on a '72 and removed the center console & heater controls and found this thingon the right not hooked up. It kinda looks like that plug on the left plugs into it but it doesnt quite reach.

After seeing those plugs and your results from the compression test with the throttle closed I would be looking for a vacuum leak in the intake system!!

This is how I set my float levels and it worked great. SETTING SU FLOAT BOWL LEVELS We've all spent afternoons syncing the carb airflow, topping up the damper oil and making sure the jet needle/fuel nozzle levels are set properly (2 1/2 turns down, etc). But how many of us have checked to make sure the gas float levels are identical on each carb? This is actually a very big deal. If the fuel levels are different in each float bowl, even a small bit, one carb will always be lean or rich compared to the other. The issue is that the SU uses a combination of incoming gas and the float closing the fuel-valve to create a steady fuel level at the tip of each fuel nozzle. If this fuel level varies between carbs then its also at a different level on each jet needle. HOW TO MEASURE FUEL LEVELS? This has been covered in several places online. Be careful since you're dealing with gasoline(!) Mark the front of the float bowl 23mm down from the top edge of the bowl (not the top of the lid). These measurements are done with the carbs on the car. - Get some small diameter clear plastic hose from the hardware store, cut a piece about 18" long. - Connect one end to a float bowl's outlet and run the other end up over the carb. Some people connect the hose to the drain plug on the float bowl but the fuel hose outlet is a lot easier. - Bring your fuel pressure to what it would be while idling. This means if you have a mechanical fuel pump turn the engine over a few times with the coil wire off. With an electric fuel pump just turn the ignition on to pump up the fuel pressure. - The fuel level will equalize in the hose and should line up with the 23mm mark on the float bowl. By sighting the level in the hose and bending the tab on each float you can get the float fuel levels to match within a millimeter. HOWEVER: Even though adjusting the floatbowl levels to 23mm down is a factory setting, it doesn't guarantee that the fuel levels in the carbs are the same. THE TRICK: I did some measuring with a straightedge and found that on my 4-screw SUs a 23mm fuel level in the float bowl corresponds to exactly 1 centimeter (10 millimeters) below the fuel nozzle "ledge" in the carb. But how do you see to measure fuel 1 centimeter down inside the fuel ozzle? See below. - Remove the dome and main piston from each carb so you can look down the tip of both fuel nozzles. - Screw each mixture nut exactly 10 turns down from fully up. Each full turn drops the nozzle tip 1 mm, so 10 turns puts the tip of the fuel nozzle 10 mm (1cm) down....which happens to be the 23mm float bowl level. - Then look down the tip of each fuel nozzle and adjust each float to set the gas level at the fuel nozzle tip. I ended up taking mine to 9 turns down and set the fuel at the meniscus of the tip. Then when I went to 10 turns the fuel was exactly at the tip. A bit of a juggling act but after a few minutes you will get the hang of it. When you get them to match it's a great feeling. NOTE #1: if your mixture nut won't go down more than a few turns, it's because the factory "stopper" next to the nut is still in place. Unless originality is a concern, you can permenantly remove both stoppers from the bottom of the carb. NOTE#2: if the fuel level is too high and overflows the nozzle tip, you will need to drain each float bowl a bit before starting again. The result was a lower, more solid idle and less choke needed at startup. I get no stumbling off idle and part-throttle acceleration is smoother, acceleration more powerful. Cruising on the interstate requires a lighter touch on the accelerator. Interesting.

Don't jump directly to 20wt, try 5wt fork oil or ATF (they are about the same), then 10wt then 15wt. There is a huge difference between each one. SU oil is about 12.5wt.

I agree with Steve: take the oil out of the dampers & give her a spin. You mentioned earlier that they were difficult to push up. There should be some resistance but you should be able to raise them completely in about 2 seconds. If it runs better through the range you are having trouble (it will stumble a little off idle because the oil isn't there to damp it) then try Marvel Mystery oil in them. It's the lightest oil I've found and will cure the off idle stumble. After that try 5 wt fork oil. Then 10 wt. I'll bet this will solve it.

There is no gasket between the towers and spray bar. I have had a couple of spray bars come apart on me and would recommend this:

I think Julio's was 212 hp at the crank at Rebello's dyno. That would be approximately 172 at the wheels. A good flowing head, optimized rod:stroke ratio, aggressive cam...I can see it. But by all means, Julio, post the dyno sheet. I've seen lots of people throw parts on their engines and end up with less hp than stock. Learning how to tune what you got seems a lot easier than "throwing" a turbo on! Leon, I would love to get triples, especially after playing with my dad's Mikunis! Though I think I am very close to 200whp with my last tune.

I've heard that installing a set of triple Mikuni carbs is good for a few ponies and drives better than Webers. I just sent a set of Mikuni PHH 40 to Wolf Creek Racing for refurbishing. They'll be installed on my dad's stock 240 so I'll let you know. We'll have that dyno'd too.

Displacement is your friend. If your willing to go to a 2.8 or 3.0 liter (still looks like 2.4!!) it would help a lot. And if your talking at the crank that would also help. I did a lot of head work on mine and am at 184hp at the wheels. I'll post a dyno of my 178hp run cause I don't know were the other one is. started with Rebello 3.0 liter bottom end. E88 head ported, chambers welded (custom shape 11.5:1 compression.), steel seats, bigger valve, Isky 490-290 cam, Rebello modified SU carbs, MSA 6-1 header, 2 1/2" exhaust. Since this dyno I've taken the oil out of the dashpots & did a couple of mods that Dave recommended and retuned. Seems to be a lot more powerful now but dyno needs to confirm this. This was at 5000 feet elevation and my dyno guy says its not corrected for elevation.

Totally agree with Julio. I think with his hard work & hands on experience refurbishing (rebuilding?) for the next 4-5 years (he is 12 after all) he'll have a healthy respect for what it takes to build a nice Z and will cherish it more. Hopefully that will translate into to being a carefull driver. My son is 16 now, has his permit and has been driving the minivan. We are looking for a 510 or something similar to build for him. I wouldn't get him a Z for a daily driver 'cause it's a cop magnet! The last thing a young driver needs is more attention from the police.

I would go for the '72 240Z. More potential upside as far as resale, a lot easier to work on, more raw sport car appeal. Datsun, as everyone knows, softened the Z and made it more of a comfy touring car as the years went on. And of course the US smog & safety requirement took their toll on power & weight. The 280 has beams in the doors that the 240 doesn't. There were also other modifications to the chasis to strengthen things. And of course the massive bumpers. My dad & I just got a '72 240Z project. I can't wait to get started even though it's his. Difference is I'm 45 and he's 63 but it's still a good father son project. Motorsport Auto is a good source for parts in southern CA. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=47a327d3a8a5582b5cbf2bae573e231d&

This is a common problem with Tokico springs for the 240: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/55577-tokico-suspension-problem-suspension-techniques-warning-to-buyers/ . Several people have recommended using 280 springs and cutting the like this: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/

I can vouch that it is a royal PITA to remove the old shock mounts!! I did that part...but the bumpers were too rough for me to attempt to prep & paint them myself so I employed a local bodyshop to fabricate mounts & prep, paint & install them. It was $800. Since then http://www.zccjdm.com/ has started making the mounts. I also didn't know they could chrome the fiberglass 'cause I might have done that. The holes in back are barely noticable (where the old shock mounts were). All in all I am really happy I did them. It did raise my car up about 1-2" though. Which was my excuse to get Tokico springs & struts. My 260 is a late one so its very similar to a 280.

Velocity Stacks? Air Horms? This is what I'm running and they work well. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PFFC20/11-4010KI Never heard them called power cones so I'm not sure if this is what your looking for.

Yes they are stainless steel. The fronts will fit as thay are the same fitting for the Toyota caliper as the Datsun one. The rears I don't know because mine have a banjo fitting for the Ford calipers so unless they have secific ones for the drums... As for their lack of response I would say that they have been around for a long time and several members at hybridz have used them. I did my conversion 2 years ago and while it took a couple of weeks to get everything they always come through. I just ordered new rear brake lines (my fault for damaging them) and it took them 2 weeks to respond. I don't like the response times but they do have good prices.