30 Ounce

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40784-2011-What-did-you-do-to-with-your-S30-today&p=373544&viewfull=1#post373544 Pain to install. Firm but comfortable. They sit about 2" higher than stock but I'm going to see if an upholstry shop can remove some of the padding & fix a cople of worn areas.

Some of the engine specs don't jive: you cant punch a 260 block (same as a 240) to 2.9 liters. It's just not possible. The car sits too high in the back: wrong springs or strut tops? Rear window is wrong. Tons of little things need to be fixed and with the description of the engine I would be highly suspect.

www.silverminemotors.com offers a more complete kit for less $$. I have their stage 4 front & rear and it was worth it. The fronts are from a Toyota 4runner & the rear are a Mustang GT 500

Definitley check with Dave as he has a way of adjusting them at the lash pads.

Bypass it and remove it. That is exactly how I installed mine.

Mine was really bad over roads like you discribed. I had about 1/4" toe in at the rear probably from worn bushings but I got TTT control arms that are adjustable and with 0 toe the problem is solved. Although now it likes to follow the grooved concrete a little but its way better than the random crack filler on blacktop.

Thanks for the tip Steve. When I put the 3.0 liter engine in I put a huge MSA-AFCO radiator in also so I never ran it with the stock radiator. Never had any issues with heat on the track, guage stayed in center no matter how hard I flogged it. I could only do 1-1/2 laps before it was uncomfortably hot. That video was actually the last lap of the 20 minute session as you can see I get the checkered flag at the end. I'm still figureing out Harry's Laptimer too. For some reason it deleted every other lap after the first session so some of my best laps are gone. Thanks for the tip on Harry's Laptimer too! That is very cool!

jmortensen, that sounds awesome!! Steve, thanks! I didn't even notice that was a turbo. My Z was running hot so I was taking it easy. My aluminum radiator is getting repaired and wasn't back in time for track day. The stock radiator is not adequate.

In car sound @ HPR

Installed VW Jetta VR6 seats

Steve, that onscreen telemetry is awesome!! Where did you get that?

On mine I was running the float bowls dry. Check your fuel filters, change if needed. I had to run an electric fuel pump in place of the mechanical one. For a stock engine the mechanical one should be fine if its working properly. Once those have been checked move to the ignition.

3.0 Rebello kit, extensive head work, Rebello bored SU's, Isky 490L 290D cam, MSA ceramic coated 6-1 headers, MSA 2-1/2" exhaust, Dynomax muffler

I got my strut tower braces from them and had no problems. It took a few weeks because they had to build them.

If you sell it to an out of state buyer would California fees still apply? I use to live in Concord and would be willing to go pick it up if it didn't cost too much.

My mom had a 810 maxima (same basic engine just 2.4 liters) and at 450,000 miles the head gasket blew. That was in 1993. My stepdad pulled the head, cleaned everything reinstalled with a new head gasket and my sister in law still drives this car to this day. Probably has close to 750,000 now...

Thicker oils won't flow around the plunger fast enough when the piston drops and gets pulled right out of the tube into the intake manifold through the vent holes at the bottom of the pistons. If you tried ATF and your still having that problem maybe your overfilling them. They only hold 3 teaspoons each. Maybe your plungers are clogged up.

My Z used to wear it's rear tires at about 10,000 miles and the fronts would look brand new. I had about 1/4" rear toe. Went to adjustable lower control arms and 0 toe and problem solved. My rears looked exactly like yours.

I saw an assortment of speedo drives on eBay last week. Brand new. Don't know if they had the correct one for 4.11 but it's worth a search.

Just to clairify: OP said he has a 280z. But since he said it was a 1980 that would be a 280zx, right? If it was a 280z then everything would bolt right up wouldn't it?

Might want to replace the coil. Mine had a hicup similar to that and I never even considered the coil but replaced it with an MSD Blaster (not especting anything!) and it has never hicuped again. The flat top carbs were crap. You will always have drivability issues with those. As the engine warms up the air fuel ratio needs change and I suspect your carbs are running very rich. Take the domes off and clean the piston and dome with carb cleaner. Make sure everything slides smoothly before reassembling and fill the oil dashpot with ATF fluid. That might help.

For some reason it didn't copy the entire address! Anyway http://www.zccjdm.com has prefabricated brackets that I wish I knew about when I did mine.

http://http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93256/pd1790406/280Z_TO_240Z_FF__RR__BUMPER_CONVERSION_BRACKETS_