WattTheHeli

That is the perfect picture for this post. Thanks! If you start counting links from the first shiny link the outer plates will be odd numbers and the inner plates will be even numbers. If the last link is an outer plate it can’t be an even number. ?

The old chain did not. I had the marked links on my new chain (they were darker) but no matter how you count them they don’t add up to 42. That is the point of my post. If you don’t know that the number of ”links” refers to the pins and you count the actual links, you will set the chain one link short, as did the mechanic before me on my car. He counted links, not pins.

The instructions for installing the timing chain on the 280Z say there are 42 links between the timing marks on the sprockets. No matter how I counted I couldn't come up with 42 links between the marked links on the new timing chain I was installing. Depending on how I counted it was either 41 or 43 links between the marks. Finally, my mind was put at ease when I found this explanation in the Chilton manual. The number of ”links” refers to the pins. Now here is the kicker. I examined the old chain and the last person to work on it marked the chain where there were actually 42 links between the timing marks as the instructions call for. One mark was painted on the outer plate of the chain, and the other mark was on the edge of two outer plates. They followed the instructions literally. Now I know why I could never get the timing set right.

After 39 years of dutiful service my A/C compressor has frozen. I actually had the hood up watching the motor idle as it happened. I saw a brief post on a forum that alluded to a 300ZX compressor fitting the 280Z but the post was left unfinished. Is there a swap from another year model I can use?

Mine is a project car that is only driven on occasions. It is where I turn when the chores around the house are caught up, which is not often. I have just begun the body work which I am sure will take quite some time, but if it cleans up nicely I will then pull the motor and have it rebuilt at a quality shop as I have nowhere to rebuild one. I promise to keep it off of the drag strip until I have a worthy engine in it grannyknot! Thanks, Chris

I was thinking along the line that stock size would be best. Thanks for the info. Chris

I recently replaced the rod bearings in my 76 280Z with stock bearings. I would have done the mains but there were none to be found. An online mechanic friend of mine said I should have used over sized bearings because the engine is nearing 200K. Frankly I am confused about the difference between over and under sized bearings but what I have read said these bearings should only be used after the crank has been turned. What are your suggestions for me? Chris

…and if you are wondering, the reason I started the body work there is because whether you are behind me or in front of me when I am in the Z, you are already or soon to be looking at my rear end!

Thanks Andrew. I was referring to the taillight finisher. I found some other threads that mentioned the Dupli-Color Wheel Coating but they did not give the number. I went ahead and used the Rust-Oleum color since I already had it and I am pleased with the outcome. It is a dark brown with a hint of bronze metallic flake. Now that it is all cleaned up I noticed the trim around the right taillight is pushed down on the top so it will be coming off again when I try to fix that. I may try to polish the chrome paint with some rubbing compound to see if I can make it look a bit more realistic. The main thing is I have it protected because it was starting to pit. And since I won’t be going back with the stock color on the body I don’t think I have broken any rules.

Nice! Thanks

I’ve spent my free time over the last year breathing life back into the Z that sat for 10 years and now my thoughts are drifting to body work. Mine is a light blue 76 280. Even though the back panel has faded I can still remember a dark bronze color that always drew me in. I was burning some free time at work today and found a Rust-Oleum color that feels right. It is Rust-Oleum 248636 Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze. Am I getting close with this color, or is there an actual color I can purchase at the auto paint store? Chris

I have very decent air flow now that I have sealed off all of the leaks but I am curious to know what year and model Honda blower to buy when mine gives out. Hopefully that will be a while because the motor doesn’t have a lot of hours on it and I pulled it apart and gave the bearings a good oiling a few weeks ago.

Thanks for the lead. It can be surprising how hard it is to find what you may otherwise think of as a common item. The upside to all of this is I knew in my gut that the engineers that designed the duct system for the heating and air more than likely had a better understanding of the mechanics of air flow than I did so I didn’t remove the afore mentioned diverters.

I rarely post because I know the answer can usually be found with some well chosen words in the search or, if I go forward with the task the answer will present itself. The latter is the case! The red flag hit me square in the face when I was reassembling the vents. Both ducts to the side vent, unbeknownst to me, had come loose in a joint behind the dash that I had forgotten about. For the time being I taped off the outlets so all of the air is directed to the middle vents. I will replace the ducts to the side vents with a solid hose so this won’t happen again. Thanks for the “air time” Chris

Has anyone done any mods to the air conditioner vent? I am considering removing about half of the diverters that direct the air flow to the side vents so I can get more air through the center vents. I went through the system several years ago and replaced the rotting foam seals with new foam and that greatly improved the air flow. Still the hole from the diverter to allow air to the middle vents is pretty small if you ask me. Are there any red flags on this or can I proceed knowing I can always fashion them back at a later time if desired? Thanks, Chris