Da Flash

Items sold. Please close thread.

Price dropped to $400 OBO + shipping.

I have a set of DHLA40's with a broken Canon manifold for sale. The carbs will need new gaskets and a rebuild wouldn't hurt. Here are the specs on the carbs; main air correction=180 main jet=130 main emulsion=7772.10 idle=57 pump jet=38 starting jet=80 venture=7848.3 $500.00 OBO + shipping is the price.

Then you sir are the winner of 2 brand new pennies. It turn out to be a leaky throttle shaft (boy am I glad I bought a spare set of carbs a few years back!!!!) I swapped out the rear carb and the idle is down to a ~1,000. Still have some fine tuning to do but, definitely an improvement! Thanks for the nudge in the right direction!!!!

Well my '71 had been ruuning like crap for a while, so I decided to set the floats, make sure that the needles were set correctly, etc. After getting the carbs back together, The car won't idle below 3300 RPM! I've back the idle screws out and, tried raising the jets but none of that had any effect on the idle. What else could cause the idle to go that high??? TIA!

Well after screwing around with that damned switch!! (In this case "screwing" means disassembling and reassembling 5 times!!) I got left and right signals!!!! The first dis and reassemble was tedious trying not to lose anything and get the tabs off/on without breaking anything. By the 5th time, I had it apart and back together in minutes!! Master Jedi SteveJ, the Force is strong with you!!!

Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. I'll check it out and report back what I find.

A few months ago, I re-installed my dash after finding and fixing a short. The cars been running great with the exception of the right (passenger side) T/S. If I put the switch to the left, all is fine the left front/rear/dash lights flash at the normal speed but, if I put it on the right side, none of the lights flash and I only hear 1 click then nothing. I first rechecked the wires under the dash and the clamshell, it looks ok but I don't have a point of reference to compare it Does anyone have a suggestion so that I can narrow it down?? Thanks in advance!!

Success at wast, It turned out to be the voltage regulator!! I can now start the engine and NOT have the fuse blow. I'm still working on getting the engine to turn off when I turn the key off but, I'm starting to think that it's the diode that I used. Is there a specific diode that is to be used?? Anyways, now to remove the dash and install all of the heater/defrost pieces and re install the dash. Thanks for your patience with the electrically challenged!

With the key ON.

OK, I did the 280zx altenator upgrade eliminating the regulator and replacing it with the reg plug with pins 1 and 2 jumpered and installing a diode between pins 5 and 6. The light still comes on but not as bright. The light will go out if I unplug the altenator "T" plug. On my altenator there is no "F" terminal but from all the pics I've seen, it looks like the vertical leg on the "T" connector. If I measure ohms between that pin and ground I get a reading of ~1.200 with my meter set to 2K. Is this the F terminal that you are referring to??

I am going to install an internally regulated altenator and the harness plug w/diode to eliminate the regulator altogether and see if that can keep the bulb unlit.

Ok, I got a chance to install the dash and hook everything up but the meters. I was reading an old thread that we were involved with earlier (http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/49746-keep-blowing-ign-fuse-no-turn-sigals-gauges-tachometer.html) and I think the short is somewhere else. The only thing that I have found that I disconnected and will not light a 1156 bulb in place of the "IGN" fuse is the voltage regulator. I've replace it, but the light remains.

thanks for your reply I'm going to reinstall the dash and try your experiment to see what I get. I was trying to avoid a bunch of removing and reinstalling the dash. Is it normal to get a resistance to ground on all of those gauge wires? I was under the impression that there should only be resistance between ground and the ground wires.

Sorry about the confusion. All of these readings are at the connector pins on the back of the gauge(s) to ground (the metal dash frame). I might also add that the harness is disconnected from the gauge(s).