Da Flash

Items sold. Please close thread.

Price dropped to $400 OBO + shipping.

I have a set of DHLA40's with a broken Canon manifold for sale. The carbs will need new gaskets and a rebuild wouldn't hurt. Here are the specs on the carbs; main air correction=180 main jet=130 main emulsion=7772.10 idle=57 pump jet=38 starting jet=80 venture=7848.3 $500.00 OBO + shipping is the price.

Then you sir are the winner of 2 brand new pennies. It turn out to be a leaky throttle shaft (boy am I glad I bought a spare set of carbs a few years back!!!!) I swapped out the rear carb and the idle is down to a ~1,000. Still have some fine tuning to do but, definitely an improvement! Thanks for the nudge in the right direction!!!!

Well my '71 had been ruuning like crap for a while, so I decided to set the floats, make sure that the needles were set correctly, etc. After getting the carbs back together, The car won't idle below 3300 RPM! I've back the idle screws out and, tried raising the jets but none of that had any effect on the idle. What else could cause the idle to go that high??? TIA!

Well after screwing around with that damned switch!! (In this case "screwing" means disassembling and reassembling 5 times!!) I got left and right signals!!!! The first dis and reassemble was tedious trying not to lose anything and get the tabs off/on without breaking anything. By the 5th time, I had it apart and back together in minutes!! Master Jedi SteveJ, the Force is strong with you!!!

Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. I'll check it out and report back what I find.

A few months ago, I re-installed my dash after finding and fixing a short. The cars been running great with the exception of the right (passenger side) T/S. If I put the switch to the left, all is fine the left front/rear/dash lights flash at the normal speed but, if I put it on the right side, none of the lights flash and I only hear 1 click then nothing. I first rechecked the wires under the dash and the clamshell, it looks ok but I don't have a point of reference to compare it Does anyone have a suggestion so that I can narrow it down?? Thanks in advance!!

Success at wast, It turned out to be the voltage regulator!! I can now start the engine and NOT have the fuse blow. I'm still working on getting the engine to turn off when I turn the key off but, I'm starting to think that it's the diode that I used. Is there a specific diode that is to be used?? Anyways, now to remove the dash and install all of the heater/defrost pieces and re install the dash. Thanks for your patience with the electrically challenged!

With the key ON.

OK, I did the 280zx altenator upgrade eliminating the regulator and replacing it with the reg plug with pins 1 and 2 jumpered and installing a diode between pins 5 and 6. The light still comes on but not as bright. The light will go out if I unplug the altenator "T" plug. On my altenator there is no "F" terminal but from all the pics I've seen, it looks like the vertical leg on the "T" connector. If I measure ohms between that pin and ground I get a reading of ~1.200 with my meter set to 2K. Is this the F terminal that you are referring to??

I am going to install an internally regulated altenator and the harness plug w/diode to eliminate the regulator altogether and see if that can keep the bulb unlit.

Ok, I got a chance to install the dash and hook everything up but the meters. I was reading an old thread that we were involved with earlier (http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/49746-keep-blowing-ign-fuse-no-turn-sigals-gauges-tachometer.html) and I think the short is somewhere else. The only thing that I have found that I disconnected and will not light a 1156 bulb in place of the "IGN" fuse is the voltage regulator. I've replace it, but the light remains.

thanks for your reply I'm going to reinstall the dash and try your experiment to see what I get. I was trying to avoid a bunch of removing and reinstalling the dash. Is it normal to get a resistance to ground on all of those gauge wires? I was under the impression that there should only be resistance between ground and the ground wires.

Sorry about the confusion. All of these readings are at the connector pins on the back of the gauge(s) to ground (the metal dash frame). I might also add that the harness is disconnected from the gauge(s).

Thanks for the reply! I've tried removing each of the 3 gauges 1 at a time and they all give readings. Most of the readings that I am getting are below the 200 range so, I set my meter to 200. Here are the readings that I get at the connector with each of the gauges installed Amp/Fuel black wire=00.4 Y/R=59.0 Y=105.0 Oil/Temp Black=03.3 Y=108.1 Y/R=62.1 Y/Bl=106.8 Tach Black=55.6 Y/R=.459 (meter set to 2K) Both White wires=1.___ (on these 2 I used all of the ranges and couldn't get anything) While I have these readings, I don't know what they are supposed to be!! How can I tell if the gauge(s) is/are bad??

It's been a while since I've had time to work on this. I'm not so sure it's not the gauges. Following the advice given in this thread, the only things that I can disconnect and get rid of the resistance are the gauges. It has something to do with the gauges being installed/grounded to the dash. I can connect all 3 gauges and get no resistance as long as they're not grounded. I also find it odd that with the gauges installed in the dash, I can get resistance to ground reading on all the pins at the connectors for the 3 gauges (oil/temp, amp/fuel, and tach) I realize that the black wire is a ground but, I find it hard to believe that all the wires go to ground!!

Kinda, sorta, not really. I think that I'm looking for the device that when disconnected gives me a reading of 1. (meaning infinite resistance or higher than the range that I have set). The problem that I'm having is that the only thing that will produce an infinite resistance to ground is when all 3 gauges are unplugged (oil/temp, amp/fuel and tach). If I plug in any of the 3, I get readings of .456 or .030. I know that this isn't a reading of .001 but it's close making me believe that it is a least part of the problem. I'll check out the wiring for the other devices that BMP mentioned and see if I can find something new. Thanks for your input!!

Any suggestions on what I should test next??

Ok, you're right I was testing the positive wiring. When I test the green wire to the black wire on the oil/temp or amp/fuel I get a reading of .057. When I test the black wire to the tach I get .030. There are no black wires on the hazard switch wiring but I do get .033 when I test the G/B and G/R wires. As stated before, if I disconnect all 3 gauges, the resistance goes away. The hazard has no effect on the resistance. Thanks!!

It's a Mastech meter and I thought that 001 meant very little to no resistance. I would try the test light but I already have the dash out and have found it easier to disconnect and reconnect things with the dash out. Trying to get to the tach connectors is a major PITA with the defrosting ducting in the way. I guess I could just reinstall the dash without the ducting for testing purposes. I've gotten pretty good at installing and removing the dash!! Thanks!!

Ok, I reconnected the tach, oil/temp, amp/fuel and the hazard switch. If I disconnect the fuel/amp connector and check for resistance between the green wire (at the fusebox) and the Y/R wire at the connector, I get a reading of 001. If I reconnect the fuel/amp and disconnect the oil/temp I get a reading of 001 at one of the 2 yellow wires (the other 2 are Blk and W/B). If I reconnect the oil/temp and disconnect the hazard switch, I get a reading of 001 at the G wire and readings of 033 at the G/B and G/R wires. If I reconnect the hazard and disconnect the tach I get readings of 001 at the R/L wire that transitions to a Y/R wire on the back of the tach. I also get a reading of 001 when I check the oil/temp, amp/fuel or tach Blk wire to the metal dash frame. I was thinking maybe a bad gauge but, if that were it, wouldn't unplugging the bad gauge give me infinite resistance between it and ground?? All readings were done with the multimeter set to 2K. I hope that this is what you were asking for if not, please feel free to elaborate!! Thanks!!

Thanks for the reply Pete, I'm assuming that you mean to check the resistance at the harness connector for each device and the fusebox, correct? I'm under the impression that with the dash removed from the car, all of the devices would be irrelevant except for the meters. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the reply Steve, the fuse that keeps blowing is the third one down on the left in the main fuse box located under the ashtray, it's labeled "Ignition". I have attached a few pics, it's the green wire being pointed to and it transitions to a red/blue wire after the connection. The other pic is of the back of the dash with the oil/temp, fuel/amp and tach disconnected. I just checked the resistance from the fuseholder to ground (the metal dash frame) and I get readings of .060 with either oil/temp or amp/fuel connected and .456 with the tach connected. I get .030 with all of them hooked up, this is with the meter set to 2K.

Thanks, the schematics weren't much help but, the "how to for multimeters" was educational!! I openly admit that electrical has never been my forte. I was under the impression the continuity and resistance were one and the same but, after reading I see the difference. Just to be clear, I am using continuity on my meter and I get a beep and a reading ~30 between the green wire at the fusebox and ground when I have the tach, oil/temp and or fuel/amp gauges (I don't have the clock installed)connected to the harness. The continuity goes away as soon as I disconnect all 3 gauges. I was under the impression that the gauge lights were the culprit but, they can be installed without the grounding issue. 1. Do I seem to be on the right track?? 2. What does the number 30 represent when doing a continuity test??