Da Flash

I did the 280zx dizzy swap, it was the difference between night and day! my '71 revs all the way up to 6K rpm, whereas before it was a struggle to get over 4500. I do have a question though, Is there a way to test the modules? I've picked up a few of these from boneyards and would like to have a known good one for back-up.

I got the link from MSA for $5, good luck!

When I was having problems with one dim headlight, I basically I did what's posted by EScanlon. In my situation it was mainly the fusebox, after I replaced that and cleaned up a few connections, it was the difference in night and day....literally!! Oh yeah I found the really niced used fusebox on an auction site for $35.

No, but seriously............

After reading this post I decided I'd give my very rarely working clock a try, getting it out was easy as I have both my glovebox and heater control plate off. Now that I've gotten it out and mostly apart (still haven't tried to pull the wires through the housing) how would I know what needs to be cleaned, oiled, or definately left alone?? I doubt that it's rocket-science but, all I see is a bunch of gears, a motor and some stuff that I haven't a clue as to what they are. Also should I try to remove the arms and face plate or just leave them alone??

Well I finally found the link, and found out after replacing the battery that my prbolem was the negative connection to the block, once I cleaned up the cable end it fired right up, and my lights are much brighter!! Thanks for your help!!

I got sick of playing around with the mixture nuts on my carbs so I went out and bought a ColorTune, MAN did that make getting the mixture down simple. After all was said and done my SU's get better milage and less exhaust fumes! I think the problem that I was having is that when you lift the piston on the front carb and listen to the exhaust, you make the adjustments to the BACK carb. No wonder when I would change the mixture on the front carb and lift the piston for the front carb, I wouldn't notice any difference!!

I've had 2-3 guys trying to find the fusible link that I'm missing, to no avail so, does anyone know of a place that carries these links??

For what it's worth, when I had the same problem with my lights a new fuse and fusebox did the trick, I had the dreaded melted fusebox, if I jiggled the fuse (3rd one down on the right) I could get them to work sometimes.

I recently grounded my battery against the valve cover, now I've replaced the battery but, I still can't get it to turn over. Another problem is that apparently the PO removed the fusible link that goes between the starter and the wiring harness (he had some 10 gauge wire that went from the starter and harness, don't laugh, it ran pretty good for 2 years like this!!) I'm almost at my wits end (I just hate electrical)below is what I've done or discovered. 1. New battery 2. checked and retightened the connections at the battery post, starter solenoid, and where it bolts to the block/tranny. 3. awaiting fusible link. the interesting thing is that when I test the battery with my voltmeter it shows 12.7, 11.6 if I ground it anywhere besides the negative post,then I check the starter solenoid and it shows 0.3v with the key in the "on"position I'm not getting anything at the fuse box either. Is there someother place that I'm supposed to check? Last but not least, just how many "fusible links" do '71 240z's have and where are they located?? Thanks for any imput on this matter!

Thanks Victor, that did the trick for balancing the carbs. I still can't get the mixture correct on the rear carb, the front carb is fine, when I push the piston pin up the engine hesitates a little then runs slightly worse than if I let the piston drop. (the spark plugs for cylinders 1-3 are tan to slightly gray) The rear is a different story, if I lift the piston with the pin the engine will sputter and die pretty quickly!(spark plugs are dry and black) From what I've read this indicates a lean condition but, even if I screw down the mixture nut all the way (4-4 1/2 turn, this should be as rich as the mixture nut can get it) I still get the same result. I've recheck the float level, it's the same as the front and measures about 14mm. So I checked for leaks with carb cleaner, no leaks. This weekend I'd like to get a ColorTune to check the mixture better. Now I have a few more questions; 1. Do I need the dashpot for anything, I de-smogged the car last year? 2. I thought that "dry and black" indicated too rich, not too lean? 3. Any suggestions on how to remedy my mixture problem? Thanks Bro', LA huh? I'm down in the OC, do you come down for the West Coast Nationals?

The center screw on the "dogbone" center linkage, is the throttle-on balance adjustment. Ok I think here lies the problem, I'm not sure which screw you're talking about. I see 3 screws connected to the linkage 1. the screw that's on the balance tube (I pretty sure this is the fast idle screw) 2. One screw on the center linkage just to the right of the front carb (attaches to the dashpot) 3. One screw on the center linkage just to the left of the rear carb. Not quite sure if the bar that goes between the 2 carbs with balls on the ends is the "dogbone" but thanks for your imput!!

I just recently rebuilt a pair of SU's using the ZTherapy kit and tape (a little pricey but, I learned alot). The rebuild went fine except that now I can't seem to balance the carbs at higher (2000-3000) rpms. They both have the same vacuum reading at idle (about 4-5 on the scale, I'm using syncrometer not a Unisyn) but once I raise the rpms the front carb pegs the meter (30) while the rear carb is still pulling the same amout of air/ vacuum as it does at idle. I've played around with the mixture nuts and, the idle screws (now I know why they only work at idle) but this hasn't changed the balance. I know that there's a screw that is on the linkage near the front carb that supposed to effect balancing but it doesn't have any effect either. I've also checked for leaks with carb cleaner, that doesn't seem to be an issue. Other than that the carbs are working good, well as good as unbalanced carbs can.

EScanlon, you seem to have the answers to all my "Z" questions, thanks for the imput! So if I'm following you use the clsed cell sticky back foam on the doors/flaps that had foam strips and use the foam backed vinyl on the big door that has the vinyl now? One more question, do you know of a good source for the foam and, does it have to be heat resistant or anything special?

I recently removed the heater box from my '71 (yes I did it with the dash in, not the easiest but, I did it)to find that the core was no good, now that I've gotten a new core I was thinking (yeah I know mistake #1!) I should renew the foam insulation that goes around the doors, flaps and, the foam that goes around the core itself. The only problem is I've yet to see a picture of exactly where the core foam goes and, what type of foam to use on the box. If anyone has rebuilt their heater box before and/or has some insight I'm all ears. P.S. I don't know if you guys know it or not but 32 degrees at 4:30 am without heat is getting a little old!....err or is that Friggin' COLD!!!!

Thanks for the info Mr. Scanlon, as with the "cigarette lighter" problem I had, you came up with the answer. I guess it's just the way my pal reupolstered the seats, it's kinda funny that I can't just throw my cell phone or, other junk in my passenger seat anymore without it sliding behind the seat but, it beats the hell out of driving around on a cut up milk crate!!

The seats in my 240 were done!! so I got anothers set of re-upolstered seats from a guy put them together and installed them, they came out great except that the space between the seat cushion (where your butt goes) and the back support is about 1-1 1/2". This isn't too bad but, this is my 3rd 240 and I can't recall seeing a gap this big! Did Datsun make 2 different length connection brackets (what are those metal pieces called that hold the seats together??) Is there some other threaded holes on the sides of the seats that I missed??

After further inspection I noticed that one of the 3 prongs inside the socket was bent and touching the side of the socket (and I wondered why I had a short!) so I replaced the socket and rewrapped some insulation and now I'm good to go!! EScanlon, thanks for the help!!! Here's to hopefully no more electrical problems!!

First off, Enrique thanks for the guidance, I would be totally lost without it! Now I'm at least heading in the right direction, but I do have a few more questions. As you stated the cigarette lighter lead is the one that's fried (well actually burnt up, gone, dissolved...) and the W/R wire only has the insulation melted in a few spots. As I said before the W/R wire isn't the one that goes to the back of the fuse box, it does however "T" out of the "one that comes out of the fusebox" and curls up to a plastic connection(which is melted to the point that I have to cut it out) within a few inches of the "T". I'm almost cetain that something went wrong with the lighter because it worked fine until about 4 months ago, when my son was trying to use it to power his computer and it burnt the adapter. (I know this should've been a hint!!) but where I'm puzzled at is why would the W/R wire be so melted? proximaty of the black wire(lighter wire) and would that cause the connection to melt? Do you know the purpose of this W/R wire? I've already gotten a different lghter to check but, I want to see if I can find the problem before I install it. Is there some way I can check to make sure that that was the culprit, maybe a multimeter? Your imput will be greatly appreciated!!

It maybe a little difficult explaining just where the wire is but here's my best attempt. There is a white/red stripe wire that connects to the bottom of the fuse box, then it goes into a harness on the passengers side where it is wrapped with the cigarette lighter wire and another white/red stripe, the 2 white/red wires both connect into a single white/red wire that continues on up into the dash harness, now the other white/red wire (Not the one that goes to the fuse box!) once it comes out of the 1 to 2 white/red wire it curls up and goes into a little plastic connection (which is now melted!). This is where the problem is, not only is the insulation on this wire melted, the wire from the cigarette lighter is fried!!! (I think it's the ground wire because it just goes to the mounting screw for the lighter, If there is a good thing about this short it's that the car still ran!! I know that I need to fix this but, electrical isn't my strong point [it's not even my weak point ;-)] I'm pretty sure that I could replace a few wires but, how do I know if I stopped the cause of the short?? How far do I cut the bad wire back? Is this something I should try to tackle or leave it up to the pro's?? Any and all reponses are appreciated!!