hr369

here was bosch' solution to the problem on vw's years ago. A fuel accumulator to keep pressure in the system a little longer. https://www.partsplaceinc.com/catalog/vw-fuelinjection-fuelpressure-accumulators-gaugekits48.shtml There is a patent out there that combines a pressure release valve with an accumulator. its a good read. What i find interesting is this ---> "The pressure from the vaporized fuel, in turn, may push any liquid fuel remaining in the fuel lines back into the fuel tank" I hadn't noticed a rise in fuel pressure after turning off the engine. Has anyone else noticed this? It's possible that just an accumulator will fix the problem. Has anyone here tried one? Patent US7267108 - Fuel system pressure relief valve with integral accumulator - Google Patents It appears the optimal location for the accumulator is right next to the fuel pump. this is a mercedes setup.

Is it faster than the camaro?

win 7 is better and more stable than xp. I was a diehard fan of xp and resisted upgrading. I first pirated 7 to test drive it then got a legit copy after I was comfortable. The only problems you might have is if your computer is real old. software drivers may not have been made for these devices because win7 was not out when the computer was manufactured. I've ran into this problem on several laptops i've upgraded. I did get around it by installing generic drivers but its a more time consuming install. win 7 was released july 2009. was your computer made before that?

for the fusible link base you can repair the plastic like they do with 240z fuseboxes. Cleaning up the Loogie......what a mess... - Z-Car - Ratsun Forums

what kind of shape is the rest of the car in? do you have the money to have it welded? if its a rustbucket then pop rivet if its nice and you are going to keep it then have it welded else take it back to him and have him finish welding.

the one big plus for me to replacing the dome light with led is battery drain. i lost track of how many times i left the dome lite on and it drained my battery. led dome lite left on all night doesn't even make a dent in the battery. another time the brake lite switch thats under by the brake pedal stuck in the on position and the brake lites were on the whole 9 hours i was at work. walking back to my car i said to myself oh crap this thing isn't going to start. turned the key and it fired right up. then i remembered i had put led's in the tail lites. It was my second set because the first set were china specials that lasted about a month. super brite led's are going on 2 years old now.

well... what happened to the gf that went for the rock star? did he get her hooked on heroin and is in and out of rehab? congrats on the 8 years. looks like you learned an important lesson.

adding additional fuel during heat soak starts via cold start injector or main injectors won't work if there is only fuel vapor in the fuel rail. Perhaps a timer function for the fuel pump after engine is shut down to circulate fuel thats temperature activated. We all have various reasons for heat soak. Bad check valves, leaking injectors, higher percentage ethenol, vacuum leaks etc... Wouldn't it make sense to keep the fuel from vaporizing in the first place? I tried a manual switch to the fuel pump to prime the fuel rail before starting but it didn't help. Perhaps it was too difficult for the old worn out fuel pump to displace the vaporized gas? So maybe a couple 30 second or so cycles of the fuel pump immediately after its shut off will cool it down enough along with also some additional fuel enrichment would work. My band aid that works now 100% of the time is a zx injector fan on my 100% stock engine.

Look at the back tail light area. This in my opinion is the best looking rear tail lite mod i have seen Ya man

what condition is the transmission mount in?

seems to me i've heard of people getting hit by others and having their own insurance rate go up. Heard that from a couple people.

I also have a need to find the proper size o-ring. This is what I came up with. These bosch fuel pumps look very similar to the type 3 vw. The electrical connector is a bit different but I think the internals could be the same. This is a D-jet and we have the later L-jet. It's a msft doc file that a vw guy put together. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CG8QFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vwtype3and4club.org.uk%2F_docs%2Ftype3and4%2FFIPumpoverhaul-2.doc&ei=0VAaU8rQH4LpoATgiIG4CQ&usg=AFQjCNHZIgNkC1K_nGE3Z1Awm6UUdIyQDg&sig2=PkPxoTxvicpAYyxmI9UYPw Replacement O-ring Details Metric sizes ---- Motor casing One - 48mm inside dia x .5mm Pump head Two - 30mm inside dia x 2.0mm PRValve One - 10mm inside dia x 2.0mm Imperial sizes --- Motor casing One - 1.862” inside dia x 0.103” - BS No – 134 Pump head Two - 1.176” inside dia x 0.070” - BS No – 025 PRValve One - 0.364”inside dia x 0.070” - BS No – 012 All Nitrile type, hardness 70 shore.

to me it looks like just the hinge points are bent. The radiator core support looks straight on the top. looks easy to me.

19k in parts and that doesn't even buy a carpet kit and rear window gasket? "thick stack of receipts and labor" He's getting an education in car restoration. When you pay for expensive labor charges you only get pennies on the dollar back. I bought a 78 that came with over 20k in receipts. I paid 4800 for it and it was in much better shape than this one. One receipt was for 4K at the datsun dealer. They replaced all seals in the motor and replaced the fuel injectors.

I like what this guy did. He kept the 280z grill and valance panel and just built his own grill below using parts of another grill

google "simulated wood steering wheel repair" tons of stuff out there on these types of wheels. Some should come with tint kits for the epoxy.