hr369

500 bucks and the wires are cut on one so its untested. Sure hope it works for the winning bidder. If it doesn't work, its gonna be one expensive radio if he has to send it out to fix. I dropped out on bidding for the one with the zero feedback bidder. He was inching up the bid alot. Don't like it when that happens. How is the fairlady foot rest? I just couldn't bring myself to drill holes in my nice floors.

which style clock you looking for?

pm'ed

They need lots of work. Older one needs caps and transistor replaced and later model quartz needs a benzel and a new lens. They will eventually be for sale.

Which little light you talking about? The little green light or the illumination at night? If it's the night illumination it's a bulb in a socket type and might be difficult to find. On the later hitachi's I was able to find the old style illumination bulbs that hitachi used and for the green light, these type of led's work great. If you can't find that style bulb, you might have to retrofit it for another bulb or LED. You just hot glue the led into the little tube where the bulb went. Hardest part is getting the right sized led that fits inside the tube. Assuming your radio has a green light and not the red. Hard to tell from that pic.

faceplate looks like brand new condition. Now... onto the next project...

Kats, this one sold back in january and was "rebuilt" but they didn't give an engine builders name in the auction. If his is rebuildable then he's got about 30k usd to pay an engine builder if you compare it to this one. Do you know Uchida Motor Works in Tokyo? Pictures on his website show quite a few s20 engines in his shop. http://victory50.com/index2.html He is quite the fabricator. Do you see the cable driven tach adaper he made for the s20? I'de be curious as to what he charges for a complete rebuild.

Finall got a good look in this box and the okinawa parts were from a LHD very early car with a series 1 hazard switch and a series 1 turn signal/light switch. Gauge is a volt meter/fuel gauge from an early s30. Has 60 L on it. Distributor is from an early L20 i believe. Speedo is from a later s30.

Thanks, photo archived in my library. I see now that the screws go in deep so the plate needs those bottom corners notched. Not good news for Hardway though. He's gotta pull it all out again. Galaxybj, you could probably make one of of a thick(ish) plastic piece. These metal plates are very thin metal.

When i expanded that picture it looked to me that i was looking thru the dash benzel and the metal plate was in front of the benzel next to the faceplate. Why would they make the cut-outs for the screws if it was installed on the back side? Do you have a metal backing plate like this or do I have the wrong one? My eyesight isn't the greatest. I'de really like to know for sure how it goes also.

Dave, did you ever get that faceplate from Blue? Yes i've seen that method of testing caps in circuit. I may give it a go. My latest toy, a 77 fairlady hitachi am fm 8 track thats stereo. This is my first one so im curious of all its functions. I think i'm going to make a silicone mold of the faceplate so i can reproduce it at a later date as these are pretty rare.

Wow, those door panels are straight out of 80's california. I was amazed to see germany passed a new law recently. By 2030 only electric new vehicles will be sold in germany and by 2050 all petro vehicles will be banned in germany. 2030 is only 13 years away!

Probably a cold solder joint somewhere on the circuit board and solder needs to be reflowed or a transistor is bad. You can try taking the cover off the radio then poke and prod the circuit board while it's powered up to see if FM comes back.

Still looking for one of these? http://page23.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o152909723

https://www.facebook.com/100006010699402/videos/514330385443980/ Watch out kids!

speaking of bad caps... I just repaired a 78 quartz clock with a bad cap. The top looked ok but the bottom was bulging and the clock was dead. Also on my hitachi 8 track i noticed this cap is leaking and will need to be replaced. They're both chemi-con capacitors. Lots of these caps in the 70's electronics. I'm on the fence where this is concerned. If there is no signs of leaking or bulging and the radio sounds good, should you change all of them anyways?

How does the 2 channel stereo sound?