hr369

Do you have an EX-wife?

Kats, good luck with that. The imported usdm cars I see for sale on yahoo auctions seem to not sell well. My wife's nephew, 24 years old, works for Toyota in osaka. He's a car guy so I asked him if he'd like to drive my 280z and he jumped at the chance. Big mistake, he really didn't know how to drive a stick shift. Lots of grinding and i think he redlined it a couple times.. He also didn't like the steering. It was too hard he said. Kids nowdays, here and there, are too used to automatic transmissions, power steering, navi-tv, a/c. i finally read through most of this thread and i've got to applaud your efforts to keep these old cars running. I gotta say my favorite car is the new ZG. It just looks so original, at least in the pictures, just like you just drove it off the showroom floor. For those of us old enough to remember these in the datsun showrooms, it brings back lots of memories.

second that on the garden hose if you don't have a stethescope. Those bearings are pretty sneaky as you can see in that youtube video i gave you a link to

ok i looked through some of my a/c stuff and found this. It's 1/2" 20 pitch.

That sounds loud ! You got a stethescope? It's a possiblity that its the idler bearing. If you don't have a stethescope, you could pull your a/c belt off and spin the idler pulley to see if it feels rough. Here is a video with a sound very similar to yours youtube

how about idler bearing? Its the bearing on the a/c belt tensioner. The grease inside dries out and they start making noise that sounds like the compressor.

could also be clutch chatter. you can spray the clutch with a little soapy water and see if the sound changes. or it could be that idler bearing too. You getting frost on the pipe just before the ex valve?

temps in the teens on the evap? isn't that a bit undercharged? you're 150 high side? what was the ambient?

You never know with aftermarket stuff. I'de wait until you get the new drier in your hands and take it down to home depot and try npt fittings on it or measure it. A high pressure switch is more important to have if you're going to choose.

new drier for 75 here msa drier cheap(er) evap here. allows you to use generic easily found ex valve. ac kits website I believe thats a 3/8" male fitting on the cut out switch but i'm not 100% sure because I don't have a 75. Binary switches here ac kits website I'm not sure what you mean by "not sure of the correct switch" A high pressure switch is normally closed (always energized) and is a simple circuit to your compressor clutch. If the connectors are different just splice on some spade connectors if the plug isn't the same as nissan had. binary switch would be better than having just a high pressure switch that nissan put on there. BUT, if you know to turn off the a/c when you suspect its losing freon, you won't burn up the compressor. Edit: There are 2 wires to the switch. There is no polarity so doesn't matter which wire goes where. It's a 1 wire circuit. It's like an inline fuse.

This is the car I was talking about. The owner is "thinking" about selling. He also collects Mazda Cosmo's. He's in Kyoto. Do you know him? It's strange that you can find a NEW oscillator but cannot find a new water pump. I would think yours can be rebuilt. The new old stock nissan GTR ones on yahoo auctions have been sitting on a shelf for 40+ years and I would think the shaft seal would have dried out. Good to see the car being exercised. I thought it was in the museum?

The white one in Nagoya you're talking about? From the pictures I saw, the engine looked like it was original, unrestored.

The main functional difference between the steel and cast iron impellers is that with poor cooling system maintenance the steel one will disappear while the Iron one wont. If your cooling system is maintained then there is nothing to worry about with using the steel one. But... there are pages and pages of debate about which is better. My own personal experience is good with the japanese made pumps that are stamped steel and cast. I've got an Aisin with stamped impellers on my MX83 toyota that has 160k miles on it. I pulled it out to replace it and the impellers looked brand new and there was no shaft play so i just put it back on with a new gasket.

I'm getting confused as to who actually supplied nissan for water pumps. All the ones i've ever taken off are Atsugi but others here say Aisin and bonzai motorworks says GMB. Can't go wrong with Bonzai and his price is good. Bonzai motorworks Edit: i'm guessing all 3 were suppliers

Toyota 2000 gt crushed by big tree while driving. Driver ok but car looks totaled Youtube link

ok so Norm is out of commission from a rollover accident and ztherapy said they send it out to a place in portland. Any other suggestions? I'de like to buy a copy cad kit myself but if someone has a home kit, it would be nice to see firsthand what kind of job the home kits do. There are some people out there that have upgraded to a larger rectifier and can do bigger pieces like this with their kits.

75k for a 432? Wow, what a bargain in hindsight 8 years later. I wonder if either one of them were the buyer of the one at auction in the US few months back.

There are exceptional deals on radio's that can be had if you look. I got this one for $25 on ebay. Not sure if it works yet. Just unpackaged it a few days ago. Edit: just noticed the seller has the wrong number. He actually sent a KM-1520ZD but it has the wrong faceplate on it LOL.

Redding is a good place to buy relatively rust free cars. It's far inland from the ocean and gets very little snow in the winter. Hot Hot Hot and dry summers. Winters are a bit wet but humidity isn't off the charts most of the time. I was in redding in the 70's and there were alot of z's there then. If that car is originally from there, i probably saw it. Yours looks like it had a windshield leak on the pass side or a leaking heater core. How is the firewall?

Kats, ethenol is a water based fuel so in older cars it rusts and corrodes the fuel systems. Your cars are stored for long periods which makes the problem worse. At a minimum, you can put in a fuel additive to prevent some of the problems with ethenol. But if those were my cars, id'e put in pure gasoline. They will also run better with more power.

I forgot what this date is. part # changed and repackaged? The old part number was superceded on this one

Looks like its more than badly damaged.. its gone from the firewall backwards. Kudo's to the shop in redding for even attempting to make that more safe to drive. Hope you got this car cheap(er) Looks like that quarter was repaired at Bruno's hack-n-pack auto emporium. You probably have other questionable repairs elsewhere, but it's better than having a rust bucket. If the floor on that side has no rust, you can just have a new frame rail welded in. That should make the car safe to drive... unless the other side is like this too. So, the first thing i would do is remove that tar on the underside and pull the carpets and check the floors for rust. Edit: I'de look at that quarter panel repair more thuroughly. Did they just replace the outer quarter skin or did they graft in sturctural members too? i.e. strut tower and rear frame rail.

dmoralesbello, is that orange z going to have the fairlady tail lights that you just bought off ebay? For mirrors, if you have a 280z, the factory racing mirrors look good. The chrome stock looking 240z mirrors also look good.

Saw this for sale on the internet. Never knew nissan made these