hr369

Last week I bought a diesel vw bug off craigslist here in hawaii. Totally thrashed pos but i wanted a TDI diesel for the gas mileage. 212k miles and greasy as hell inside with dog fur stuck to the grease. The grease was from a kitchen where the guy worked. He was asking 1300 and i offered him 900 and he jumped at it. Well fast forward next day cleaning the car out I find an envelope between the seats. Rip it open and 1100 bucks cash falls out along with restaurant cash register receipts. I ask my wife... well what do you want to do? She smiles and says give it back to him. May be something to do with being buddist, dont know. So i call him and ask him if he lost any money recently. He says no.I describe the envelope's contents and he says oh yea it must be from my restaurant cash register drop. This thing is dated 2 months ago! you think he would have noticed one nights proceeds missing. Well i'm still cleaning out the damn dog fur and grease and ordering parts and am starting to regret my good deed. The radiator is bent and the a/c condenser is toast along with the plastic radiator support. Oh yes and he did give her a reward of 100$ which i thought was nice. she sent me a picture of it on the phone. That paid for the towing as it didn't run when I bought it. but... maybe karma is coming back my way. I put in a new fuel filter and it fired right up. I was thinking it needed a new injection pump.

bucking during decleration is probably tps adjustment. did you take the cover off and inspect the contacts? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

What do you guys think? a tad more gloss i think would look better. more paint on it would smooth that texture out a little more too. excellent progress. i really like that fairlady emblem

2 cars for 1000 bucks. you get a 73 240z and a 75 280. i'de buy it for the 240 alone. looks like a calif blue plate car. 1975 Datsun 280z/73 240z parts car I have a 75 Datsun 280z with a running L24 and automatic transmission for sale, that has a 73 240z as a parts car to go with plus many other extra part. Parts include 2 fenders( right and left), a right side headlight cone, and many other small parts(marker lights, bezels, bolts, etc.) I have a title for the 75 but nothing for the 73, the 75 is cancer free, just has some surface rust that you can see in the picture. It has a small hole in the passenger floor board, the dash has no cracks, and all the glass is good except for the crack in the front windshield. the interior needs some work(Headliner, seats, carpet) its all there though besides the carpet, it has a sun roof, and 4 slotted illumico's that go with. the engine is in but isnt wired up yet, the transmission needs bolted in the rest of the way and shift linkage hooked up,and the gas tank needs put back in along with the interior. It is a solid car just needs some work to get it back together, and on the road again, hasnt been registered since 06 and from what i have read up on it could be out of the system since it hasnt been registered in 8 years. I am asking $1000 cash for the pair and all the parts included, there is over $400 in glass alone just with the 240z plus whatever you get for the extra fenders and parts you dont use so no low balls, im firm at the $1000 serious buyers only please, no payments.

12,500 is kind of steep. i'de offer 9k and see if he bites

I must say i've never seen factory air that had the dryer next to the compressor like that. it looks like a rotary compressor. You couldn't mount one of those boat anchor piston units under the intake manifold. All of the compressors that i've seen on early 240's in the states have the older style piston design like in this photo.

i'de buy both if there isn't much rust. do you transport to the midwest or east coast? haul one out there and double or triple your money. those guys are always looking to find west coast z's.

there must be some place on the net that automates craigslist searches and emails you when "70 240z" comes up.

wish i was closer to the one. passing it along to others Large Lot of Vintage Datsun 240Z 260z 280z 280ZX Parts No Reserve | eBay

how do you know the compressor is bad? these old hitachi's are pretty tough. however, the quickest way to kill one is to starve it of oil. when you put in r134 did you have a shop do it or did you use one of those "kits" ? the newer more efficient variable displacement compressors have serpentine belts and to convert your pulley(s) to match would be difficult. the best way to get more efficiency is to add a universal parallel type condenser which requires making new hoses which is not a bad idea if you're still running the original hoses from 1978.

install muffler(s)

easy spot repair for some of the dash repair guru's here. maybe a heat gun on them and a quick quench with a cold towel would shrink them back. but, yea you're probably right. the big money oem buyers want perfect.

any price under a grand is a steal. i can't imagine the prices for these have gone down. current bid only 735 bucks and only 3 hrs to go. perhaps they've become less valuable since we have been repairing them ourselves with foam and bondo. New Dashboard for Datsun 240Z 240 Z Dash | eBay

wow i paid 4.11 a gallon and im in hawaii. you're getting ripped off

weld in a plate? you should bevel it back and use as many passes as it needs to fill in the hole. no patch plate or sealer required. if its done like this, you wont even know its been repaired. its very important to use cas iron welding rods and to preheat the iron before welding. welding rods can be bought here 1/2 lb 77 Electrode 3/32"

you've got good luck uncovering what appear to be rust free rust belt cars. that is a nice original looking 71. i personally love my automatic. it shifts crisp and tight. it's an age thing yea i know. i didn't appreciate automatics until about age 35 and by that time i had spent many hours in stop n go traffic shifting gears endlessly. i wouldn't let the auto trans deter you. for a few hundred bucks you could put a 5 speed in and put the auto in the corner of the garage, awaiting patiently, until the day you too perhaps will tire of shifting. for reliablitly sake i'de go for the stock L24 over the hybrid v8. if there's no rust on the 71 thats an easy decision.

love those slot mags and burnt orange paint. interesting setup on the ball valve. im wondering if you could rig up a 240z manual choke lever to it. the aux valves that i've had never really worked. they either stuck open or stuck closed. yours would be probably the first fuel injected z with a manual choke.

injector connectors should be replaced or the very least cleaned with a good electrical contact cleaner. did you test your injector with a full 12v from the car battery

exhaust pipes are in an odd location. they're right under the fuel tank. does this car have a fuel cell or the original gas tank? i'de look closely at the motor and trans mounts. do they look flimsy-homemade-hacked-crappy welds? first thing i would do is get rid of that small steering wheel. that dude must be a bodybuilder to steer that thing. do you have self control? when i was your age this car probably have been wrapped around a tree with me dead inside. if you're like me stick to the toyota land cruisers and vw busses. edit: looking more closely at the rear deck carpet, its way too high to be stock he must have a pretty big fuel cell under the back. i'de be concerned if it has room for a spare tire. if not, you had better pick up some roadside assistance insurance.

i used just standard acid core solder for plumbing. fast forward to 6:25 on this video. it shows how to solder holes up in sheetmetal. this is old school for sure. dent puller and solder . yes you could use a washer as backing on the larger hole. Of course this is not the preferred way to repair. welding is the best but you said you did not want welding sparks to damage your paint. another option is if you could take the door off the car and mig weld it up. to minimize the heat damage to the paint you could use a moldable heat dam around the weld area

anything behind the bondo to keep it from absorbing moisture inside the door is a good thing. i've used masking tape before as a backing until the bondo set up. then pulled it off and painted the bondo from the back side. i'de indent the holes a little before bondo'ing. soldering them would be my preference though.

ZXR616, I think the fuel regulator, header and possibly megasquirt are the reason you don't get heat soak. Have you tweaked your MAT values or cranking pulsewidth in megasquirt ? edit: from the mazda megasquirt forums "i have upped my cranking pulses 30% to accomodate the e85"

sell it to me so you can put some paint on that 620. Im curious as to how it made it from glendale az to atlanta. anybody know dean tilton? maybe he'd be interested in where it is now. edit: Dean Tilton passed away. i do believe this car was his pride and joy. Dean Tilton Obituary: View Dean Tilton's Obituary by The Arizona Republic

megasquirt owners also deal with heat soak. someone suggested that the heat affects the copper windings inside the injector and reduces its pulse. for megasquirt owners there are no options? they do have MAT air density correction but it doesn't seem to help the problem much. would increasing pulse width during hot startups help solve the problem? will len's hellfire be able to compensate using software? M54 Megasquirt 3: Fuel Injector Heat soak

this is what jeep did to prevent heat soak. notice the insulation is only in the center of the manifold. the zx injector fan also points to the center injectors. Injector heat shield - Jeep Wrangler Forum