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fastwoman - vw's that i've looked at have the accumulator located next to the fuel pump. Thats not to say other cars might have them far away from the fuel pump. But this is how bosch designed the system for vw's. good question on the cherokee using accumulators. i googled cherokee fuel accumulator and did not turn up any and the cherokee forums don't mention them. a vacuum line going from front to back would a pain and you might need a vacuum tank reservoir to keep a stable vacuum. i guess you could use the a/c hvac bottle in the engine compartment. the deloreans have the accumulator about 7' from the rear and it appears to be located away from the fuel pump. but... everyone knows how crappy that car performed. Fuel Accumulator Removal and Installation check valve alternatives - I ran across this high flow bosch check valve for the Bosch 044 fuel pump it threads right into the fuel pump and uses AN style fittings. Bosch 044's are around 100 bucks new. Bosch 044 High Flow Check Valve, -6AN outlet [bFP-CV6] - $50.00 : Jay Racing

rocky auto is way down by nagoya. thats an expensive train/plane ride. but if you're down nagoya way you should visit the toyota museum. It has datsun's too. here is a list of 15 in japan. Japanese Car Museums: 15 To Get You Started : 7Tune.com if you're staying just in the tokyo area try the mega web museum. i don't know about nissan heritage museum. that would be my first choice to visit. i hear its not officially open to the public but there sure are alot of forums that have guys talking about visiting. anyone know who to speak to there on getting in? according to the zama website they have a z432 and a 240z-g plus 5 other regular z's from the 70's im going to nagoya and tokyo june 1 and would like to see the zama collection myself. i will be researching this further too. But, i think the most z's to be seen is at rocky auto. from the video's i've seen of the place he's got dozens on his lot.

the volume of these bosch accumulators is pretty small. what would it take to fill one? 3 -5 seconds? if that indeed is a problem, they do make a very small accumulator. see the size difference. Big one is first picture. if you search on volvo hot start problem there are lots of forums with the same problem. i do believe many of the 70's and 80's volvo's use the same fuel pump check valve. I do believe thats part of the problem. Its too weak and allows bleed back when pressure rises after shutdown. Perhaps a different-better higher pressure check valve? The jeep cherokee guys have the same issues and they have resorted to the hood vents and injector fans too. they even had a recall because injector #3 was throwing a code. the band aid was a injector shield for #3 but didn't work very well. they use this fan timer if anyone is interested ELK-960 - ELK Delay Timer im wondering if there is any difference between the z and zx exhaust manifolds other than the additional o2 sensor. perhaps nissan made a beefier exhaust manifold that reduces heat soak?

the problem with "restored" vehicles is they can bondo and paint over sins. does he have proof of it being a texas car? i'de want to see documentation. who did the bodywork? does he have receipts? are you sure those hideous 60's metal flakes will grow on you? Personally, i like this one better and especially if the price stays under 6k Datsun Z Series 2 Door | eBay

Its not only a 78 280zx but its a 280zx fairlady with an L4. even more rare is paint code "original Az faded" original owner since 78-2012. Nissan 280ZX Fairlady | eBay

The only affect the accumulator has on fuel pressure while the pump is running, is that it keeps the pressure more steady because of the reservoir of fuel it has. The magic happens when the car is shut off and the spring and diaphram take over and supply residual fuel pressure. Fuel pressure coming into the fpr is "always" constant and its the regulators job to raise or lower pressure. with the addition of an accumulator, its job has not changed. the only difference now is that pressure supplied to the fpr is more stable. the accumulator is kind of like a surge tank to prevent starvation on the race track. in our stock cars heat soak is the "race track"

here was bosch' solution to the problem on vw's years ago. A fuel accumulator to keep pressure in the system a little longer. https://www.partsplaceinc.com/catalog/vw-fuelinjection-fuelpressure-accumulators-gaugekits48.shtml There is a patent out there that combines a pressure release valve with an accumulator. its a good read. What i find interesting is this ---> "The pressure from the vaporized fuel, in turn, may push any liquid fuel remaining in the fuel lines back into the fuel tank" I hadn't noticed a rise in fuel pressure after turning off the engine. Has anyone else noticed this? It's possible that just an accumulator will fix the problem. Has anyone here tried one? Patent US7267108 - Fuel system pressure relief valve with integral accumulator - Google Patents It appears the optimal location for the accumulator is right next to the fuel pump. this is a mercedes setup.

Is it faster than the camaro?

win 7 is better and more stable than xp. I was a diehard fan of xp and resisted upgrading. I first pirated 7 to test drive it then got a legit copy after I was comfortable. The only problems you might have is if your computer is real old. software drivers may not have been made for these devices because win7 was not out when the computer was manufactured. I've ran into this problem on several laptops i've upgraded. I did get around it by installing generic drivers but its a more time consuming install. win 7 was released july 2009. was your computer made before that?

for the fusible link base you can repair the plastic like they do with 240z fuseboxes. Cleaning up the Loogie......what a mess... - Z-Car - Ratsun Forums

what kind of shape is the rest of the car in? do you have the money to have it welded? if its a rustbucket then pop rivet if its nice and you are going to keep it then have it welded else take it back to him and have him finish welding.

the one big plus for me to replacing the dome light with led is battery drain. i lost track of how many times i left the dome lite on and it drained my battery. led dome lite left on all night doesn't even make a dent in the battery. another time the brake lite switch thats under by the brake pedal stuck in the on position and the brake lites were on the whole 9 hours i was at work. walking back to my car i said to myself oh crap this thing isn't going to start. turned the key and it fired right up. then i remembered i had put led's in the tail lites. It was my second set because the first set were china specials that lasted about a month. super brite led's are going on 2 years old now.

well... what happened to the gf that went for the rock star? did he get her hooked on heroin and is in and out of rehab? congrats on the 8 years. looks like you learned an important lesson.

adding additional fuel during heat soak starts via cold start injector or main injectors won't work if there is only fuel vapor in the fuel rail. Perhaps a timer function for the fuel pump after engine is shut down to circulate fuel thats temperature activated. We all have various reasons for heat soak. Bad check valves, leaking injectors, higher percentage ethenol, vacuum leaks etc... Wouldn't it make sense to keep the fuel from vaporizing in the first place? I tried a manual switch to the fuel pump to prime the fuel rail before starting but it didn't help. Perhaps it was too difficult for the old worn out fuel pump to displace the vaporized gas? So maybe a couple 30 second or so cycles of the fuel pump immediately after its shut off will cool it down enough along with also some additional fuel enrichment would work. My band aid that works now 100% of the time is a zx injector fan on my 100% stock engine.

Look at the back tail light area. This in my opinion is the best looking rear tail lite mod i have seen Ya man

what condition is the transmission mount in?