hr369

for 1500 bucks you can buy a truckload of 5 speeds

I've adjusted my mind to compensate for the non-linear curve of my gas gauge.

Well i guess its about time bodymen are Compensated for the dirty nasty smelly Carcenegen filled air they breath. When i did it for a living i barely got By. Glad i have the skill because i sure As hell wouldnt put more into the Paint than the whole car is worth. This guy is finding that out the hard way

Its not going to sell for that price. 2 hours to go.. very nice car but 10k for a paint job?

your rust doesn't look as bad as mine. I cut out the whole bottom area and where the quarter attaches to the filler. I also removed the interior panel and checked for rust on the back side and blasted it with paint. Its very important to get a good seam sealer to seal the gap to prevent water from entering between the 2 layers of metal. Everyone should probably reseal theirs even if there is no obvious rust because its a common area for water to get into.

Whoever got these factory frame rails got a great deal. There can't be too many of these left out there. I stopped bidding around 400 because shipping would have matched that to hawaii. The rails weren't the most important part, it was the tc boxes. Nobody makes those aftermarket yet as far as I know. btw final sale price was 455

Rota RBR 17×8.5″ and has wheel cap 1971 Datsun 240Z Restoration Project: Rota RBR Wheels, Interior Prep, Gas Cap + Vent Hoses | Whitehead Performance

Since expansion valves for the zx are easier to find than the long extinct s30 expansion valves, yes i have 3 brand new ones,has anyone tried swapping out the evaporators? They look very similar in shape and i already have a 79zx high pressure line and dryer on my s30.

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/standard-receiver-drier-with-push-on-fittings-42.php The only problem is finding the right size barbed fitttings. Measure your hose inside diameter and see if they sell your size. Personally i like the hose kits that you can assemble yourself and add o-rings and better fittings but the old barbs work ok if your hoses are in good conidtion.

how did that dohc L6 project ever work out or did it leak coolant?

If you can't get a perfectly smooth ride even after replacing rubber suspension bushings, try getting the tires balanced while the tires are on the car.

Brakes should be very firm. No squishy feel. Get another master. I got a good one from rock auto.

The proportioning valve just redirects fluid away from the rears to prevent them from locking up. Definition: The proportioning valve modulates the pressure to the rear brakes. The modulation is necessary to minimize rear wheel lock up found in heavy braking and to compensate for the differences in braking conditions in front disc / rear drum systems. As pressure is applied to the system full pressure is allowed to the rear drums up to a certain point. Beyond that point the pressure to the rear is reduced preventing rear brake lock up. Symptoms of a bad proportioning valve: If your prop valve has gone bad your rear wheels will lock up easily, especially on wet surfaces.

Are you sure when you put in the new check valve its going in the right direction? If its going the wrong direction you wont be getting any vacuum to the booster Also, if someone before you had a 15/16" master they may have changed that little adjustable rod that goes between the master cylinder and the booster unit. Do you have a 7/8" in there now?

I say its the brake master. I had very similar problems like you and I finally pulled apart the master and found a partially collapsed rubber seal.

Did the machine shop perform a pressure test on the head or just check it for straightness? I had a casting flaw by the exhaust valve that let water into the engine. You are having problems with the exhaust valves sealing. I'de check for cracks around the exhaust valves. felpro head gasket will work just fine.

I've got a very nice rear inner hatch weatherstrip I got in the junkyard about 10 yrs ago. i bought it thinking it would crudely fit my 78 for a short time but it proved to be too thick. Its very soft and pliable factory rubber. name your price and its yours if you want/need it

you think the reason he parked it was because of his new job? Driving an Import and working for GM Was probably a big nono back then

More archeology on my car from the previous owner...... Wow! He sank a lot into a car that was otherwise perfect. Yes, this was my car, .... let me tell you a bit about it's tale. The original owner worked for the GM Nummi (Car making plant) in Fremont. He drove it regularly from 1978 thru ~1982 when he got a job as a Union Shop Steward, at which point, he parked it in his mom's garage in San Leandro, covered it up with ~50K miles on it, and left it until ~1998 when he decided to dump it. He had advertised it on a local Z Club newsletter, and I was the first person to find it. What a Gem for $2,800 (or so I thought). It was a time capsule. No kidding, paint perfect, chrome perfect, interior perfect, engine spotless. Cold Cold AC. I (Naively) thought... what could possible be wrong (Opp!). Unfortunately, the car had not been prepared for long term storage, and when I returned the following Saturday thinking a little starting fluid would do the trick, I found the tires had fused to the garage floor, requiring a floor jack to free the vehicle (my friends and I still joke about the popping sounds the tires made as they popped free from the floor). At that point, we realized all the brake cylinder seals had failed over the year, and all hydrolics (clutch & brake master cylinders, lines & brake calipers) required replacement. Fuel Delivery... YIKES! Try and Try as we might, we just couldn't get the damn thing to start, and we used something like half a can of starting fluid trying to get the damn thing to start, when it backfired setting all of us ablaze in a soft blue flame of Either... Very Exciting, trust me, you don't want to try this stunt at home, or with any friends watching (Yes, several folks had a good laugh at our expense). After brushing off our burned hairs, we found that the full tank of gas it was parked with evaporated over the years, leaving a thorough coat of varnish over the fuel injectors, the fuel pump, the gas tank & line that required the replacement of everything. ($X@#$!!!!) Tires and battery were replaced with (I don't remember), and at that point, I had a really really nice 1978 280Z. I changed out door & hatch seals, and I drove it around for about a year, but decided I was happier with a 240Z due to the power to weight ratio & the more spry performance of the 240Z, and went that route next (a copy my next Z is attached (I don't have any digital pictures of your car unfortunately). I am amazed the guy I sold it to sunk that much into it, as quite honestly, with the exception of one paint chip on the hood when I closed the hood on a screwdriver (Sorry), the car was otherwise perfect. No Rust, good paint, perfect dash and interior, no electrical issues, just a happy '78Z. In total, Purchase + Repairs, I was into it for ~$8K, an sold it or $6.5K, as that was pretty much what I could sell it for at that time. If he indeed sunk this much into it, you are likely the beneficiary of a very nice car. How many miles are on it now? and how is the condition now? I hope it is nice, as I did like the car. Unfortunately for me, it just wasn't the right fit. Well, now my current '73 240z is sporting a 3 liter Rebello Race engine with 5 speed, LSD, 4 wheel disks, and lots of other goodies. I suspect this will keep me in happy Z land for a while. P.S., I hope the car serves you well. As it has been in a dry climate in the SF Bay area, I find it unlikely you will have any rust issues for a while. Your climate will ultimately take it, but the base vehicle should be very robust by this point. Good luck to you. Hi Daniel, wow I thought it had some kind of engine trouble and he parked it. So thats the original engine then. When I got the car his wife had kicked it out of the garage and it was sitting in the driveway in that hot sun. Sorry to say the dash had 2 cracks. One of the dog legs had rust bubbles so I cut it out and welded in new metal. He had a new 5k$ paint job done in 2001. All glass taken out to paint it. I have one receipt for 4200 alone in misc engine work. Replaced radiator 4 row, new afm, injectors and on and on. He did not do any labor himself so the 20k is probably 3/4 labor. I picked it up for 4800. He said he needed money for his daughters college tuition. I asked him why did he put so much money into the car. He said "those were the go-go 90's and that was just a drop in the bucket for me. I was making tons of money then" I have since put 2k into it myself. Tokiko struts, various rotted suspension rubber and new door panels, console, rear carpet, full dash cap and a hitachi factory radio. He had made a mess of the wiring on the alarm system and door locks you had put in. Took a while to sort that out. My god what a money pit that thing has been. He was so paranoid that i'de part it out. Actually my initial plan was to take parts off it and put them on mine and sell it but i've decided it should stay a museum piece thats glued to the floor once again. Now it sits most of the time inside the garage. The climate here on the west side of the big island is very dry. I occasionally take it for a cruise down the kohala coast. A/c still works good btw. Kind of like phoenix with very little rain. It now has a little over 73,000 miles. Its almost a twin to my other 78z. Its from santa rosa and the vin's are very close. Very nice orange 240 there. When i lived in santa rosa i wanted to make it up to the mt shasta meet but never made it. Thanks for the history on the car and for bringing it back from the dead.

Easiest is to keep the windows rolled up and the fresh air vents on each side open. extend the tip of the muffler past the back of the bumper. replace the back hatch inner weatherstrip. replace the tail lite to body gaskets. check/replace the rubber body plugs near the muffler on the underside of the cars quarter panel. take the hatch upholstery panel off and tape/silicone a plastic over the opening. then replace the panel. lots of gasses come in thru the hatch lock. install a rear spoiler some people say it helps a little.

Hey thats a good idea googling the vin#. I think i'm going to try that

Ok, I got a reply from the owner that bought it in 1999 and he confirms its the same car by the description he gives of the car. I'm very curious about the "slumber" he speaks about. From the documents the car slept from 1987-1999. I told him that the guy he sold it to dumped 20k into it. Its not that there is 20k worth of new parts but the labor he paid along with the new parts amounted to that sum. Some people should not own old cars and this guy was one of them. In all he probably was into it 30k with the purchase price of the car. "Hi Greg... could be, I resurrected a '78 some years ago from a long slumber. A nice car, but I ultimately wanted a '240z again, so I went back to that route. Might it be a Burgundy '78 with a 5 Speed & Louvers (when I parted company with the car)? Ping me back if it was. I hope it's still in as nice of condition as when I parted with it. All the best" Picture taken in 2010 right after it got off the boat from maui. It was crusted with salt spray from being on the barge that was tugged from maui to honolulu and back over to the big island where it is today.

Got an idea today to research previous owners of a 78z I bought about 3 years ago from a guy on Maui. He had worked at the lawrence livermore lab particle accelerator as as a technician. He shipped the car over here to hawaii and got a low tech job installing satellite dishes. He gave me a big bag of receipts and old registration cards. I went back as far as the early 80's and found what i think is the original owner now in his mid 60's on the internet. He probably doesn't want to be bothered. The car sat for 12 years and a guy by the name of Daniel Magliari's bought it. Anyone here know him? Anyways, I found him on facebook and sent him a message. He is friends with a guy named Dave Rebello. Yea the racing engines guy. I hope he replies to my message. I'de like to find out more history on the car. In the early 90's I had access to the dmv computer in calif and looked up an old 78 i had in the early 80's. It was last registered to a dismantler! I've always wondered if that front clip I had installed had come apart

Wow 15,000. Wouldn't it be less expensive just importing a nice rust free one from Los angeles?

patcon have you done any work on that auto trans yet? It's been a year. I too am interested in freshening up the auto trans since my reverse is slipping really bad. These are great automatics if you don't abuse them. I bought an extra trans in case i screw up. Im going to put the one i just bought into the car so i can take my time and drive the car while i try rebuilding the original trans. Im thinking about just replacing the clutch discs, band and seals and put it a transgo shift kit in and install it. For future reference to others searching, the transgo shift kit is T53165 TRANSGO Shift Kit, N4A-EL The n4a-el is the 3n718 that mazda used. Internally its the same trans inside.