hr369

This is the closest thing to that i can find in my stash of interior pictures. Is this funk pasted on your headliner too?

date stamp on pictures is 2009 username on here zcarman was the one that first posted this picture. might want to pm him and ask if he knows about the cars. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=30218&title=pantera-datsun-a-mixed-breed&cat=3521

If i remember correctly, this hoarde was around san diego Its been a few years now since that picture surfaced. The guy may have died and that was his estate. I seem to remember something about a wife trying to sell it. Maybe other members here remember that one? Whose to say that hoarding a bunch of zcars is a waste of time and money and if left outside a waste of cars. Heck it might just be a better investment than the damn stock market. I once met a man in Santa Rosa calif that had hundreds of old american cars. I was looking for a 68-70 AMX at the time and answered an ad in the newspaper. He took me to a warehouse just north of santa rosa that was huge and the field outside was filled with old cars. We're talking acres and acres here. He had 5 AMX's but wanted too much for even the worst car. It turned into a half day tour of all these vintage cars. He was a member of the packard club or the president of the club, can't remember. Its been about 15 years. He was obviously a wealthy man and it was a hobby/business for him.

I'm not sure this one is a myth or true. That is the L6 design was bought from mercedes. Anybody?

assuming that each one is worth at least $1000, thats $20,000. But he probably wants more for each depending on condition. How does one accumulate so many cars? are the hoarders? Too bad they're sitting out in the hot texas sun wasting away but i guess it could be worse, they could have been crushed. I asked my wife if i could start collecting zcars on our residential lot and she gives me a frown Pictures of other datsun and zcar hoardes.

I've wanted to do this swap also but haven't had the time. This is what ive archived for future reference. most of what ive seen is converting the zx but this person over on hybridz.org, username "HizAndHerz" did the conversion on a 76 which is not that much different than your 73. the zx may be different, im not sure. If you really want to do this conversion you might send him a pm. The post was dated 2006. To clarify: the L4N71B 4-speed OD automatic transmission from a Maxima will bolt up to the L-series engine, but it is quite a bit longer than the 3-speed auto or a manual transmission. New brackets need to be fabricated and either welded or bolted up into the transmission tunnel a few inches back from where the standard crossmember mounts. From what I've seen and read, the L4N71B overdrive automatic came on late '82 through '84 Maxima's and some early 200SX's. The version from the 200SX has a different bellhousing. The 300ZX and 240SX had the electronic version of the transmission (E4N71B). The electronic version can't be easily used on a first generation Z. I'm in the middle of this swap on my wife's '76 280Z. I'd been looking for a Maxima to show up at the junkyard for two years when two of them came in the same week. Only one, the '83, had the 4-speed overdrive tranny. Finding a strong transmission is key. I've since found a couple in 200SX's that were burned up (they have the wrong bellhousing anyway). TransStar has rebuild kits available. Rebuilt torque converters are anywhere from $85 to $300. I was suprised that my local O'Reilly could have one to me in 24 hours for less than $100. I don't think I need one, but its nice to know if mine is bad or goes out. Our costs so far: L4N71B 4-speed OD transmission from PnP: $130 Flex plate including crank shaft spacers: $20 Auto shift lever from 1975 280Z: $18 Kickdown switch and mounting bracket from 280ZX: $3.50 Brake pedal: $3 Refresh items (filter, seals, modulator): $32 Hard fluid lines from 3-speed 280Z: $9 Fluid hoses: $10 Driveshaft shortened, rebuilt, balanced: $165 New rear transmission mount: $25 Hardware (bolts, nuts, metal spacers): $15

what kind of fuel pressure gauge do you have? aftermarket ones are usually built into the fuel rail and are not connected to anything electrical.

When you try starting the car DO NOT press on the gas pedal when cranking it over. I saw the throttle linkage moving in your video. You only pump the gas pedal on carburated cars, not fuel injected 280z's I would replace the fuel filter and pour a can of sea foam fuel additive in the gas tank. Then give it a good tune up. Replace plugs,distributor cap and plug wires and if you're up to the task, adjust the valves.

http://www.7tune.com/feature-the-fairlady-zed-432r/ As a continuation of this thread i've found pictures of a fully restored r432-r, OR a good replica, in Thailand of all places.

i found a 6 volt headlight at a thrift store in calif about 10 yrs ago. They were rare then. I paid 99 cents for it. sold it on ebay to a restorer

i wonder how that hole got drilled in the top of your gas tank. You got any enemies or mean ex-wives?

the area that really surprised me was the roof,drip rail area. that was thicker looking metal but was pretty rusted. The last message was dated june 2011. Has the project been put on hold?

That was what i thought but i ran across this page. It changes the way i think about my 78 bumpers. 2) What is the purpose of bumpers? The car bumper is designed to prevent or reduce physical damage to the front and rear ends of passenger motor vehicles in low-speed collisions. Automobile bumpers are not typically designed to be structural components that would significantly contribute to vehicle crashworthiness or occupant protection during front or rear collisions. It is not a safety feature intended to prevent or mitigate injury severity to occupants in the passenger cars. Bumpers are designed to protect the hood, trunk, grille, fuel, exhaust and cooling system as well as safety related equipment such as parking lights, headlamps and taillights in low speed collisions. http://www.nhtsa.gov/Cars/Problems/studies/Bumper/Index.html

I don't get it. This appears to be a standard run of the mill 240z am radio. The seek function is worth that premium? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=251104222323&si=BcFmbaq8lsOzXr14P%252F0FDcXjntc%253D&viewitem=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

cheap quality retrofit adapters leak. those are the aluminum ones. here is a source for good quality ones in either brass or metal. and the price is less than what they charge for the elcheapos. the best fittings are the ones where you remove the original valve core. the cheaper ones just have a dummy valve core that pushes in on the old original valve core. lots of problems there because the dummy shafts sometimes bind and you get the hissing of freon. you can tap them sometimes with a small screwdriver and get them to seat, but for the same price you can get good quality valve cores. http://www.acsource.com/fittings.aspx

I might add that lots of r134 conversions were done on old worn compressors that still work, but their pressures at idle are not enough to keep the a/c cool. Summer is coming up and so does interest in a/c. If and when you retrofit to r134 with the original 30+ year old parts, do not expect new car performance from the ole a/c parts.

for me the fuel pump running before startup didn't cool down the injectors. i saw no improvment with hot starts. i cured the problem with installing a zx injector fan in my z. right now i'm just using a toggle switch to run it. it starts up beautifully every time now. i've got to put a timer into the circuit to complete the project. i could run alcohol free all the time but thats damn expensive here in hawaii. they sell it at the marina and its over 5 bucks a gallon. could you just take the thermostat part out of the loop and just have the timer run the fan for its duration? and in winter just shut the circuit down with a toggle switch?

you do realize that there is one set of fusible links not connected?. the other connections look questionable too. do yourself a favor and get a multimeter. a cheapo is under 10 bucks. if the car has sat in a damp garage for a while i would check the fuse box inside the car too. those connectors probably need cleaning with a small brass brush or emery cloth

look at the 4th picture down and of course if you like shelby mustangs there are other pictures. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221023938042+&viewitem=#ht_78351wt_1182

when they talk about rust free calif cars, i think they're referring to so cal cars. over 12 years ago i bought a 78 280 in santa rosa and the front hinge area and rocker dog leg was rusted out. its those damn rainy nor cal winters. check your front hinge area for rust.

thats very good advise. that stop leak gums up everything

is there oil around the front of your a/c compressor? if so, the front seal is leaking. another place that leaks is the high and low side charge ports. and lastly the rubber hoses can leak but those first 2 are the most common places to leak. you cannot just keep filling with freon though. whenever freon escapes it takes oil with it so you're probably running low on oil. ive replaced valve cores before and they've still leaked. probably the seat is bad but not sure. maybe just cheapo replacements. one quick fix is to get some r134 charge port fittings and remove the cores if they have any. then find a bolt that will thread into the top of the r134 fitting, most are threaded on the inside. i use teflon tape on the bolt thread too. then i screw the retrofit fitting over the top of my r12 charge ports and it seals pretty good. start the car and test with soap and water from a spray bottle. at the very least put a few oz. of oil in before you top off.

first thing i'de look at is fuel pressure. sounds like you're fuel pump is turning off

im assuming that from your signature. i bought one from BD for my 280 and it fits perfectly

saw a set of, new from the dealer, 280 visors sell for 300 bucks last week