hr369

before he slipped the rubber hose over the pipe he sprayed some 3m super adhesive on the aluminum a/c pipe for extra hold, then crimped the fitting

i got fed up with those cheap retrofit valves and took a bolt and some teflon tape and threaded it into the top of the retrofit valves. that stopped the leaks in their tracks. same thing with my carrier home a/c too.

i don't own a 240 and am not sure what your crankshaft damper pulley looks like. did they install a double pulley for the frigidaire system? you should check to see if the damper pulley will line up with the a/c compressor pulley using the 280z compressor mount. you could put on a L28 damper if needed but thats more work and more expense. here is my setup. im using a zx mount and later model hitachi compressor with aftermarket condenser. this place sells a partial kit and it says it fits the 240 http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/datsun-240z-260z-280z-compressor-upgrade-kit-623.php

can you close the back hatch to see if the gaps around the hatch are ok? this is a way you make sure the back half of the car is square.

get some r12 gauges on ebay first and check your pressures. all the can taps should be the same. hose to the a/c compressor fits the standard r12 hose. the problem with cheap can taps is that once you open the can you have to use all the refrigerant otherwise the freon leaks out over time.

if you were to take that into a shop they wouldn't guarantee work unless you replaced the whole system. if you were to do the work yourself you could reuse the evaporator under the dash. since the system was open to the outside atmosphere for a long time i would flush the evaporator really well with a/c flush solvent and replace the expansion valve. get a new condenser, they're cheap and more efficient parallel flow v.s. your old serpentine condenser. if you have no air pump you could install a later factory a/c compressor on the drivers side using stock mounts from a 280 or 280zx. then take it to a shop and have them make custom hoses.

does anyone know what car this ebay seller gets this 1" master from? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-280Z-New-1-Inch-Brake-Master-Cylinder-2-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2fd8d9fcQQitemZ400234699260QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

i believe the dryer was from a 79 and i used the pipe from the 79 that connects up to the pipe coming out of the firewall. the 79 pipe i had to shape a tad to make it connect up to the dryer. you will notice that the low pressure switch is not located on the dryer where the 78 and earlier switch is located. i took off the stock nissan low pressure cut out switch thats in this photo and put in an aftermarket dual high/low cut out switch. i also had to saw off the mounting tabs on the dryer so that it would fit inside the 78 dryer mount. z31 compressor z31 hose end used to make new hoses aftermarket parallel condenser in hawaii i like to run the a/c year round. i've also installed a junkyard pusher fan. you should be able to still get the original 78 though. black dragon has them for 49 bucks. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=28

good used expansion valves are getting harder to find. i've been thinking about using other evaporators out of newer nissans that came with r134. the ones i've looked at on ebay have the hoses on the same side as the 280z. the only problem would be size. it would have to fit into the evaporator box. hoses would have to be made but any a/c shop can do that. on my 78 i have a hybrid system. i use an aftermarket parallel condenser, 280zx dryer and a 300zx compressor.

wow multi tasking must be your thing. i may have missed it in the 8 pages of this thread but did you buy a stock exhaust manifold yet? i suspect you are also getting exhaust fumes in the car from the rust holes in the back tail light area. if it were me i'de concentrate on one thing at a time and prioritize if money is a big issue. the exhaust fumes are a definate high priority. did you ever get the carbs to sync properly? is there play in the throttle shafts? you may be better off getting another set of good used ones from someone here. wish i was still in norcal myself so i could give you a hand.

if you pull it out, would you want to sell me the compressor mount bracket for the sanden compressor?

gads my reading comprehension sometimes. i thought you wrote after you shut it down. your problem sounds like it could be the electronic ignition module

some say its the one way valve at the fuel pump that keeps the fuel line from emptying back into the gas tank and the rest of the fuel boiling off in the fuel line. then when restarted you get popping lean hard starts. i replaced that valve and no change in my difficult hot starts. i even put a bypass on the ignition so that i could turn on the fuel pump and recirculate the fuel in the rail to cool it off prior to starting. NO improvement. i then got to thinking that the wires to the fuel injectors might be getting less electricity when they're hot. heat=more resistance so i cleaned and put dielectric grease on the fuel injector pigtails and it did improve hot starts but still sometime i get a little stumble when hot starting.