hr369

How long ago did the a/c work? I really enjoy working on my 78 z a/c system because its so easy to get to every part. Thats including the expansion valve which is very easy to get to, unlike many other cars. If i were a a/c pro, i'de jump at the chance of working on something so easy to repair. Car a/c technology really hasn't changed much in the last 40 years so you don't need an old school tech to understand it. There are a couple ways you could do this. The patch and pray method. You could have a shop replace the obvious things first. Then charge with R12 and check for leaks with a leak detector. OR Go thru and fix all of the original system. Personally I like the quality of the factory a/c system. The only problem with using original equipment is the expansion valve is no longer available new. A used one has to be installed if yours is bad/stuck open or closed. I've got a couple used ones if you go that route. I installed a used expansion valve 10 years ago and its still working good and I use my a/c every time I drive it. Even in the winter here in hawaii. You could get a new aftermarket evap core that has a generic expansion valve. That's an additional 300$ part. Dash has to be pulled if you go this route. The a/c compressor is probably oily around the pulley. Thats where the hitachi's like to leak freon. Have a rebuilt one installed and replace the condenser with a new cross-flow condenser. New r134 type rubber hoses have to be fitted for the new condenser so that takes care of the old rubber hoses that needed to be replaced. The condenser is the second area i would suspect a leak from a rock hitting it. Then i'de convert it to r134 gas. The old r12 gas is very expensive. OR Install an all new Vintage Air system. They have to pull the dashboard to put in a new evap core and you're probably looking at about $2000 Too bad Dave WM doesn't live closer. Picture of new crossflow condenser I installed 10 years ago. You could probably fit one thats a little bigger than I got. And lastly, if what you've got for a/c now is aftermarket, remove and replace with Vintage Air.

Kats, I was watching a yahoo auction and a new 432 gas cap sold for about 500 usd. Is there a chain on yours? That sure would ruin my day if I left my 500$ gas cap at the gas station accidentally. I think i remember something about the 432 filler pipe being bigger diameter and the tank is different. The cap does look to be a bigger diameter than a regular 240z.

Looks like a gob of bondo was put over the cracked leaded joint that joins the roof skin to the A pillar. It's caused by the body flexing and is normal. Some people grind all the lead out and weld up the seam to keep it from ever coming back. I tried that on my back 2 roof seams and it's been 2 years and no cracks. Knock on wood. Yes, if water gets in under the weatherstrip, it can rust out the roof lip/seam area. A temporary fix would be to use a flexible sealer like clear silicone to keep the rain out. How are the back 2 roof seams? any cracking? Just out of curiiosity, is there any more bondo in other areas of the roof?

Are you a homicide detective by any chance? Sure is fishy, his last post was right before he went there. Next step is to look at satellite images for shallow graves?

Eric has mocked up a circuit board that fits inside the clock. It seems to fit well in the location where the little circuit board was. I've assembled a kit of 3 caps and 1 transistor that are needed to fix a calendar clock and a 280z (non quartz) clock and will be selling them for $10 if anyone is interested. Pic #3 is the very fine coil wire I was referring to that is very easy to damage if you're not careful soldering in the one capacitor.

10k$ center caps. Now there's a "wheeler dealer" for ya. I might add that I did the same thing once for a nice set of watanabe wheels. I will add these to my to-look-for-list when shopping. Desperate buyers are always welcome at my store.

Kats, They did not trust a fan clutch or only 4 bolts @ 9000 rpm. Have you used a more accurate way of testing water temp? Perhaps its running at normal temp and that gauge needs to be recalibrated? The datsun makers group (3d printer group) made some wheel caps for a us mag wheel. If you want something to fit and have a "Z" logo you might ask those guys to make something custom.

Just saw on the news tomorrow it will be 120 degrees in phoenix. Driving at night?

oh my god that thing is in sad shape. 3d printing guys should get in on this.

I think we can pretty much get alot of that stuff from atermarket suppliers these days. That picture of a starter motor in the 3rd page is interesting.

Eric has already done a writeup on fixing other clocks 6 years ago. You've probably seen it before but just forgotten. I believe the earlier jeco 280z clock and the calendar clock share the same circuit board thats in this tutorial. I've never had one of the earlier 280z jeco's apart to verify. Anyone have a donor? I should probably put a warning label on soldering the new capacitor in that connects to the tiny wire from the coil. It's VERY fragile and is easy to lift the pad off the board. If that happens, it's toast. Perhaps a safer way to put the new cap in is to snip off the legs of the old cap and solder on the new cap to the old legs. On the rally clocks, I might add that people have tried to swap the original oscillators between clocks in the past and they couldn't get them to work right and i've seen this same thing when I used our prototype oscillator on several different clocks. To keep correct time, i had to tweak the pulse or frequency to find that sweet spot. My thinking is every clock has its own set of mechanical resistance and wear patterns over time and therefore the pulse and frequency need to be fine tuned to each clock. However, I really hope i'm wrong and your oscillator works on every clock. How to fix your 260Z or 280Z clock - rev 1.pdf

Ran across this today. Some of you may already have seen this but others may have not. Apologies if its been posted before. Description November issue Nissan Motor sport room 1971 "Nissan Fairlady 240Z HS30 type sports option parts catalog" Fairlady 240Z HS30 type Suspension kit Brake parts Engine tune-up parts Electrical parts Carburetor and exhaust parts Non-slip differential parts wheels Clutch parts Transmission parts ETC

The car is in Minnesota? Major rust issues may be lurking on the underside. Proceed with caution P.S... who needs an A/C in Minnesota?

i was being optimistic. Sorry can't be of much help. I've owned a SD22, small yanmar, vw TDI but have never had to rebuild. That's a pricey block you got there. Too bad you can't put another kind of engine in it. I saw a datsun sd22 complete engine and trans setup go for 700 on ebay.

That is a pretty big hole. How is the cylinder bore? Would it need to be sleeved?

Perhaps a clear coat over the top for protection/adhesion?

The other 2 have the diode symbol on the board. There is not a symbol on the first image i posted with the C9. I found one partially intact. Pic 3 below. It also has a R12 next to it so it may have been a resistor. Whatever it was, it glued the 2 cap's together when it melted. Just a big blob.

Finally got my hands on a signal seeker hitachi from a fairlady but when i powered it up, all i got was static. Pulled off the cover and discovered 3 diodes were toast. Toast as in crumbled into dust. I was unable to read the values and cannot find a schematic. I know it's a shot in the dark, but does anyone have one of these that can tell me what color bands are on the diodes? These are really hard to get, and with my luck, i probably have the only one in north america

Well here is the finished radio. Except for the 2 bottom pieces it turned out pretty good. Still can't replicate the nice plastic chrome that the factory did. I used model paint called chrome silver and covered it with a clear coat. It's passable. Anyone have better results with chrome paint? Plastic connectors I got online at vintageconnections.com

Is that a Yanmar engine?

Nice work Kats. Now you don't have to worry about it leaking. When I saw that big puddle when you stopped, I thought it had blown out a seal. I had this happen to me in my toyota just a few weeks before. It had a small leak and the cooling system would lose pressure and the water would boil and go in the overflow tank. Finally one day it blew out the shaft seal completely. Water everywhere! Does the engine still run a little hot? Any luck finding caps for those wheels?

where do i sign up to order an oscillator?

Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner? You could disassemble it and zap the parts with some simple green to see if that helps. I used very warm (microwaved simple green) on some fuel injectors in an ultrasonic bath and the simple green turned black. Very interesting on the alternative expansion valve. It sure would be nice to have one that you can adjust for superheat.

I don't have a caliper like yours but i think counting the threads would just as accurate. I counted 5 threads and its adjusted down to be right on the top of the 6th thread. After setting the valve, set it in the freezer for half an hour and see if its closing correctly. You can pick up another used one on ebay but they usually sell em attached to the evap's. If you plan on having a/c for a long time, its good to have an extra.

Great work! I have A few questions. Did you test the oscillator on more than 1 clock? Is anything adjustable on the oscillator? Do you have pics of jcar's box?