austinnelson117

And like I said, I didn't want to just start leaning the carbs out until idle was back to normal as one thread I read suggested that I could damage valves doing that

I did a search but there was no indication from anything i read as to why it would randomly change idle speed without any adjustments

Hey everybody, just for reference, my car has the earlier style SU carbs. When I first bought her I put everything back together and she ran perfectly. I adjusted the main idling screw on the top of the linkage and it idled at 700 rpm smoothly. Then, one day it just started idling between 1500 and 2k rpm. I was going to adjust the carbs but read that if the needle is the issue, leaning out the carbs can mess up the valves. I was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions where to start due to the random appearance of the problem. Thanks, Austin

Not sure what exactally. All I know is I had trouble starting it for the longest time. Eventually it just quit. (The other day). When I put the engine tdc and opened the dizzy, when it was supposed to be on cylinder 1 it was on five. I also opened the timing cover and watched the chain and it was very tight and seemed good. I bought another one in plans on changing it but thank god I didn't have to. After resetting everything it cranked faster and smoother than normal and seems to run so much better now.

My mechanic is myself, I do all my own work. That way I know its done right. The exhaust was open after the headers and I remember driving and hearing the exhaust popping a lot. Long and behold it backfired and knocked the timing off. Reset everything tdc, distributor wise, etc and.car runs great again.

Also, what I also tried doing was backing the car in the street, putting it in first, cranking the motor and using the starter to get the car going. While in gear, I let the starter continue to turn crank, hoping this would somehow start the car. Which it didn't. I know it's not the best thing for the starter - but I at least know nothings locked up, or broken internally as everything seemed to run smooth, and no cranking, or scraping noises.

No, I don't know how to do / have the tools to do that with. My plan was to tow it to a shop in the morning and have them take a look. I'm stumped and need a car.

We just changed all the plugs - and each plug was out and we cranked it. Engine cranked fine, sounded just like every other day. Nothing spewed out. The original plugs looked fine too, no oil or anything. just normal wear and tear. It will backfire on startup for about 2 mins of trying, then after it'll just crank and crank and crank. After it sits for a while, and I go to start it again, itll repeat this process. I have no idea what's going on.

I have no idea what the problem is, and im stumped. I have a 1976 280z, carburated with a holley carb. my engine bay The cars my DD. I replaced the oil pump maybe 500 miles ago. The timing was off, but I followed the FSM and set it TDC, and put the dist. to 11:25. After that, it fired right up and drove GREAT for a couple weeks. Then the seal on my water pump blew and i unloaded all my antifreeze on the highway and had to get towed 25 miles back to my home to fix it. The car drove great for about 3 days. I parked it last night, after driving normally, and this morning when I went to start it, it started for about 2 seconds, and died (which is always does when it's cold, once i crank it again and choke it a bit it runs fine.) Now when I go to start it, it'll crank for about 4 seconds then just a HUGE bang from the exhaust (straight piped). I can't get it to manually start by dropping the clutch, or using the starter to force the crank. It just wants to crank, bang, crank bang. I have not messed with anything mechanically since it ran fine. That's why im baffled. Video: Once it backfires, I don't continue cranking anymore. I just stop to avoid damaging anything. What do I do!?

Every time I push in and let out the clutch, from the rear of the car. When I'm driving at a decent rpm and I'm not steadily accelerating and its doing the whole rocking back and forth thing it does it to. No problems under steady acceleration. My friends dad rode with me and thought it was the u joints.

OK so I just got my open headers fixed today and as a result can finally hear something other than the engine. But, I'm feeling and hearing a small jolt when I engage the clutch. Is this normal or am I just now noticing it now that I can hear it?

Alright thanks guys I'll check that out when I get a chance. Last night though something strange happened. The lights worked and were much brighter and the horn much louder. I didn't even do anything. But, still no blinkers with lights on.

Hey everybody, so recently my 240 will shut off instantly when I turn on the lights and the battery is disconnected. They work with the battery connected but since they are running off the battery it sucks it dry. It just started doing this recently. I took the alternator to autozone its good. Battery reading 14 volts with car on. Other recent quirks, liscense plate lights come on with brake lights, and blinkers not working with lights on. Any ideas?

Awesome thanks guys.

Those of you who have used Robello, is there a ballpark figure you can giveme if you don't mind me asking? I am planning on selling my truck soon to put more money into it so that may be an option for me.