mrfixit.joe

if thereh is a plastic dash cover then it will not come out the front.

I agree that it sounds like your are running lean. Here is simple test you can do if you are not good with and ohm meter. First turn up you idle to about 1800. Then disconnect the water temp sensor and it is the one with the black wires. the idle should drop back to about 900, and then take it for a ride and if it seems like it has power than I would looking real hard at the AFM. do not leave it set up like this because it will carbon foul the plugs.

Ok here is what I found. The car was running with a bad water temp sensor, so it was real rich. After changing it and the it getting the proper fuel mix caused a lack of power and poping. This ended up was being caused by a bad AFM. The bad sensor was masking the problem with the AFM . I had a spare from a parts car. Ran it through all the test and it checked out, so I put it in and she's running good and lean. Thank you all for your help.

I checkd this by running a ohm it to the cold start valve to make sue I had them correct. If you are sure which one the green wires go to I would mind checking again.

sorry for the confusion my Z is a 1977 280Z.I belive the sensor is working correctly and there is a different problem. I just checked and adjusted the TPS and need to test drive it but it is poring right now. Joe D

ok I have and update if i disconnect the temp sensor the idle drops. I can turn the idle up and the car runs rough but it has the pwoer again. it is agin running rich . I hope this helps so you can give me and idea what to check next.

77z I put it back on the road after 10 yrs. it was runnig good but found it was running very rich and was only getting 14 MPG. everthing else was good. change the water temp sensor because i believed it was not allowing engine to lean out after warm up. the engine starts great and I had to reset the idle down. it revs fine but as soon as i put a load on it it pops and bucks. I replace the plugs and checked the timming. I can not put the old one back in because it broke. I hope somebody has an idea. joe D

Thanks for your help I got it working. All i did was clean all the connectors in including the fuse box connection and it started working.

I have AC, but it is a labor of love.

Thanks it was also what i was thinking would be the next step. I have a dash cover which makes getting gauges out difficult, so I may try to do from the plug.

My fule gauge was working and then just stopped. I pulled the sender and It tested of 13 to 79 ohms. checked the fuse and it is ok, so anybody have any thoughts on what to check next. oh yea all the rest of the gauges or ok. Joe

it took minutes to find this it is what I used http://www.4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf tis was a lot of help.

you need to vist this site http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html there is good refrence material. there is a documnet which take you throug a testing the ECU. there are to resstors mounted by the master cylinder make sure the plugs are clean.

Ok pump running then the next step is to clean each of the injector connection. it sounds like it is running of the cold start valve only.

you need to check that the pump is running when the igniton is on. you can do this by turning the key to the on postion and pusing the flap open on the air flow meter the pump should run. the fuel pump relay has two parts one for run and one for start.