CW240Z

Did someone say Momo?

Here are some of the decals and stickers I have accumulated Chase

If you are concerned with keeping the wheel wells looking clean and would want to go the body color of the car with them, then I would suggest looking into a good quality wheel clear for them. You can pick up one such as the Dupli-color brand (which I used) at any auto parts store. The clear is designed to keep road derby and brake dust from sticking to your freshly painted wheels, and can provide a good barrier to protect the paint and minimize cleaning of the wheel wells too. Sorry they are sideways, that was an uploading issue. Chase

John, The fuel pressure and filters were checked and verified to be in good shape. My new coil solved the issues and the car will accelerate easily under load up to 5500 rpm with no problems Chase

The wires do not have any breaks or damage in the casing, and meet the required resistance spec in the FSM. LevonV I did the test of checking them in the dark while running and no arcing happened. madkaw what is YOUR definition of a basic "tune-up" New cap, coil, points, fuel/oil filters, fluids flush, SUs rebuilt, new fuel lines, spark plugs, everything gaped and adjusted according to the FSM. That;s just in the engine bay. I don't think I left anything out with the exception of the plug wires but they have already been tested and in good condition. The new coil seemed to do the trick. No backfiring under deceleration, the car will easily hit 5000 rpm and has the power through the whole power band. Thanks guys for the tips and suggestions. Chase

beermanpete and buysell, Thank you for your input and suggestions on what to do. I went through the process of checking the ignition components like suggested and could not see anything that was obviously at fault. While doing this I managed to find another coil in my extra parts box for the car I've accumulated. Surprisingly the other coil I had seemed to fix a good portion of the problems. I will fine tune the timing according to the FSM and see where that takes me. Chase

beermanpete, Looking and testing the mechanical advanced, it seems to move freely like you described it should. I have also replaced the filter on the right fender and cleaned out the two in the inlets of the carbs during the rebuild. Chase

As far as the mechanical advance goes I can put suction on the vacuum tube and see it advance the distributor with the cap removed. However, being an old vacuum advance it might not be enough for what the engine needs at 3000 rpm. I also tuned back the timing a bit, finding the best spot where the motor revs without the "pinging sound"

Woah easy now, madkaw. If you had read properly for more than a few seconds I stated that I have given the car a tune up. I am already past the point of a basic tune up and my problem still remains. I like most people don't have an unlimited budget and would like to spend money on what's necessary rather than replace it all and hope for the best. After some more investigation the plug wires seem to be fine with the check of an ohm meter.

Woah easy now, madkaw. If you had read properly for more than a few seconds I stated that I have given the car a tune up. I am already past the point of a basic tune up and my problem still remains. I like most people don't have an unlimited budget and would like to spend money on what's necessary rather than replace it all and hope for the best. After some more investigation the plug wires seem to be fine with the check of an ohm meter.

Also after all the tuning I pulled each of the spark plugs and they were lightly brown and similar to what the FSM describes them to look like. The coil is also at least 20 years old. Chase

Another timing/tuning question for you guys/gals: I have a 72 240z with a completely stock engine setup, SUs, points ignition, etc. I rebuilt the SUs with the guidance of the Ztherapy video, and tuned it with the FSM I have. I also checked the gap of the ignition, installed new plugs and points. The car runs fantastic at idle, it is smooth and level. I've got it set at 800-900 rpm there. The car is good if you punch it and accelerate up to 3000 rpm. I can easily get it to squeal the tires if I wanted. It drives great between 0-60 mph. However, once I get it to 3-3200 rpm in neutral or under load the car will no longer accelerate and start to stumble and pop. Once I decelerate it will pop and backfire again. I can't get the car to go past 80 mph either. After reading other threads I figured the timing was out of place and got a timing gun for the car. However, I can advance the car completely or pull it back a bit and the problem still remains. I am at a dead end with this acceleration issue. I think I have covered most of the details on the car and what position it is in. What's confusing is it will start right up without the choke and idle great, so I have half the acceleration it can deliver. I would greatly appreciate any addition insight on this or suggestions. I think the only thing I have not replaced that is apart of the ignition system are the plug wires. Could they be the culprit to my acceleration stumbling under load? The wires are at least 27 years old and NGKs. I wasn't sure and didn't want to start throwing money at the car if I didn't need to. Thanks in advance! Chase

Is the motor still at TDC? I recently went through a head rebuild on a 71'. After sending the head off it didn't come back at TDC, so maybe check that both are in the correct position. I was able to have them line up exactly, to ensure the timing and TDC were correct on both. Chase

Looks great! I recently did a front suspension rebuild on my Z similar to yours. I noticed the front end sitting high like that, but about 10 minutes of driving in a bumpy field allowed for the car to settle down back to stock height. Chase

Looks great! I've been interested in doing this racing series with a Z. What have you done to yours to get it ready for the track? Chase

You could probably use a number of different styles of braces that work for the Civic. As long as you have the correct bolt pattern and the bar has some bend in it to clear the valve cover, it's basically a matter of personal tastes of style. Hope this helps Chase

Jeff, The brace I've personally dealt with was one of this style: JDM Civic CR x Del Sol Integra Front Upper Strut Bar Tower Brace | eBay Here is a photo of the brace on a s30. Sorry for the poor quality. This works for both front and back strut towers on the s30. A very cheap alternative, that did help out with minor body flex. Chase.

Get you a set of 90-95 Civic strut bars for around $30 on eBay. They require drilling out one of the 3 holes on the strut brace only (Not strut tower). You have more options in the Honda world, and for a fraction of the cost they'll look nice and provide the support. Chase

I tried the lemon juice method a few months ago on a set of carbs. While it is a cheap alternative to cleaning them up, in the end I was not completely happy with the results. The process took me an afternoon to setup and do. The smell was pretty bad, and the carbs didn't come out as clean as I was hoping. There was still grease and a tarnished finish on them. If you're looking for an easy way to really clean your carbs, go down to the local car parts store and get a gallon of carb cleaner with the basket inside. I did that, and left the carb in it over night. The results were far better than lemon juice and there wasn't a mess to clean up. Chase

A friends 71 240z has had two rocker arms come completely off. My question is, what is the best way to get them back on? Does the camshaft have to be removed? There was no detrimental damage and everything is stock. Thanks Chase

A friends 71 240z has had two rocker arms come completely off. My question is, what is the best way to get them back on? Does the camshaft have to be removed? There was no detrimental damage and everything is stock. Thanks Chase

So who has purchased their tickets for this weekend? Chase

Not sure is you have Pep Boys around you, but they stock a strut that will work. Chase

Why go through the trouble of installing two new struts, when you can get a single universal strut that works great at a local parts store? I've heard of people putting two struts on the 240z, and although it can be done, it is more power than needed to lift the hatch, possibly making it more of a struggle to close. Some members on here have done that before, and will eventually chime in with a response. Chase

If you are talking about tree sap, WD-40 will get that off without harming the paint. You'll probably have to wax the car again after that. Chase