CW240Z

I'm still in the dark about the history and info on this spoiler. It wraps around from fender to fender, longer then the BRE style, and for the 260-280z cars. I've searched everywhere and have yet to see another one. Chase

I just finished a complete front suspension rebuild on my 72. Like stated above, it is a straight forward design and job. However, the trickiest part was removing the strut inserts. That required a lot of heat and an air chisel on my part. I was able to do both sides by myself as well, but extra hands are always a plus. I went with the PU bushings and would recommend them. Chase

It you are planning on sticking to a restoration without mods and keeping with originality, then I'd stick with the original color. That's just my opinion. In the pictures you've posted, the first two cars have body kits, wheels, and air dams that stripes or other non-original paint schemes are more appropriate for. That third car looks as if the stripes were a last minute decision by the owner, to kind of "spice" the image up. Plus, for resale value, your car would be more in the market for those searching for an original car Just the addition of stripes would put it in an odd place market-wise. Purists would look past it, and those wanting a more sporty Z would want something with a few more modifications. That's just my opinion. White looks good on these cars and it also looks like you have a nice and solid car to work with. Chase

In my mindset, it's always a little comforting to buy a car that is numbers matching. I have found that cars for sale with an unoriginal drivetrain tend to be that way due to poor maintenance or abuse by the original owner (this is just what I've seen and not always true). That usually can also give a good idea to how the rest of the car has been treated and its condition. However, upgrading a car to a later model drivetrain along with other quality performance modifications could boost the value. If you're building a car for the optimum market value, having the numbers matching seems to be a plus, especially if you're not deviating away from a stock condition. Do what you want to to the car, it's yours after all. Chase

Another tip I found useful cleaning my mag wheels was using a very fine steel wool and the Mothers compound. It produced a great shine.

Also, I'm not sure if those are the correct wheel lugs for mags. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the ones I've seen and know of are deeper and set flush with the wheel surface. Maybe check into that just to make sure it's a safe setup. Chase

Your local auto parts store like O'Reilly will carry a polish that can be used to clean the wheels up nicely. Depending on how much you clean them, they can give off a shine that looks like chrome. I've used this product from Mother's with great results on mags and the intake/carb setup on my vehicles. Mothers® 5100 - Mag & Aluminum Polish | O'Reilly Auto Parts Hope this helps, Chase

Hopefully we can get a good group going. I will be attending but not in the 240z. Jeff will you be bringing yours? Chase

Join Houston Z's for a great time with the Nissan family on march 1st and 2nd for the Grand Am races at Circuit of the America's. A Nissan Car Corral is being set up for us to have exclusive parking for $30 and tickets will be available for $59 in turn 15 or 16 good for both days for those still needing tickets. Here is a list of the items we will be offered once we receive our flyer and sales associate. Circuit of the Americas is offering an incredible package to Nissan Owners. - ON TRACK PARADE LAPS in your car - Special seating in Turn 15 or 16 - Private Hospitality Tent - Trackside Car Corral Parking in parking lot B - Fanwalk on Pit Road - Access to Paddock and Garages - Private Driver / Team Appearances Nissan sponsored Team members- still to be determined - Autograph Sessions Please join the event if you are for going and hit maybe if you are still thinking about it. im still trying to get a head count for the marketing manager. i will update this thread when i have information to pass on. if you have not purchased tickets, please be patient and wait for me to post ticket info and the right number to call. again if u already have tickets , no worries, we can accommodate you as well. Facebook link here: https://www.facebook.com/events/207650319378334/ Chase

Interesting video, thanks for sharing. Lets hope the build quality of the new Viper is much better than the other American high performance cars like the zl1 Corvette. Chase

I purchased the Moog ones from RockAuto as well. The threads were not the same and I am in the process of returning them. I could of bought ones for a 280z, but they all ring up with the same part number through them. I had to get a set of MasterPros from O'reillys. Chase

Looks great, I've enjoyed reading your build so far. I just tackled the front suspension myself. Did you have a hard time finding tie rod ends that would fit? I had to go through a couple different companies to finally find one that worked. Chase

Thank you Carl for the additional info on these spoilers. After more research I agree, it looks like it's for a 280z. Chase

With the way the spoiler wraps around and how round it is, I almost want to say it's for the gnose front clips.

I purchased this front spoiler today, and I was wondering if someone could give me more information on it. What I know is that it's a NOS piece, bought from a dealership that closed down in the late 70s. It had a tag that said "72-78 Z cars" (Not sure why 70-71 wouldn't work). I wasn't able to completely mount it up to the car because I have a BRE already attached. It does however, go all the way and touch the wheel wells. I'd love to know the history of it and what kind of value it has. Thanks, Chase

I found this article the other day and thought it had a good amount of information about the cars you are thinking about getting. http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/1207_high_performance_two_door_comparison/viewall.html Chase

What part of Texas? I'm in the Dallas area. Chase

Have you tried the soapy water test to verify that it is the gasket leaking? Get a spray bottle of soapy water and shoot it on anything that could be a possible source to leak. I'm sure there's a reason why Nissan has specific specs on torquing the exhaust bolts down. Having them too tight can lead to crushing gaskets and/or snapping a stud off. Chase

What has been described as possibilities sound like things mounted to the front of the car, not the rear. Depending on the sizes of these extra holes you're car may of had some sort of body kit on it at one time. Pictures as always would be nice for a better guess. Chase

Good luck with the project, and as always take LOTS of pictures! I am in the process of wrapping a Datsun 620 dash with a simulated leather material. Chase

That is the fear I have if I start pulling the engine and trans. In my case the suspension and front end are in good shape so i'll hold off on tearing those down for now. Having the engine on a stand would be the most idea setup. I was planning on pulling it and going through is when the whole car is being restored. Hank240 thank you for the compliment. The engine bay is clean, but it could use a little more. The side of the block is the wrong blue and the carb setup could use a more thorough cleaning. Check out the photo albums from one the members "Diseazd" has of the 112 green 240z. It is an amazing car and he did a great job on the engine bay. I am planing on replicating what he has as best I can. Here are a few photos from Diseazd's album: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4650810125/in/set-72157600346077563/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/4651427890/in/set-72157600346077563/lightbox/ Chase

Over my winter break I was planning on redoing the engine bay in my 240z. To me this included: 1. Repainting the firewall and inner fender wells 2. New rubber pieces all around 3. New exhaust manifold gasket 4. Repaint the engine block 5. Pull of the entire carb assembly and clean it up 6. Send of the parts needed to be zinc plated (not necessary in this order) The engine bay as of now is very clean and original. No rust worries and the car runs great with the SUs on it. I'm not planning on pulling the engine, rather pull everything off of it and do a light and period correct restoration. The engine has been tuned up and adjusted, so I didn't want to go very deep into it mechanically. Do you guys have any suggestions on how to approach this idea and the best way to do it? I was thinking pull off all the engine accessories till I had basically a bare block, head, and valve cover on it. Once that phase is completed the block sides would be cleaned and sprayed the factory blue. All the front engine components would then be cleaned and sprayed with a VHT high temp aluminum paint. The carbs, intake manifold, and linkage would be polished and cleaned up. I'll clean the rust off of the exhaust manifold and spray it with a high temp cast iron paint. Before reassembly, I'll prep and paint the firewall and fender wells, adding new grommets and hoses where needed. This is just a rough idea of what I'd like to do. Any input on how to improve this or extra precautions to take would be greatly appreciated. And as always there will be several pictures of the tear down process! Here is what I'm starting with now. Chase

Same thought here too. The ad is almost as off-putting as those yellow/white seats in the car. Chase

This guy has an interesting car and an even more interesting ad. He puts a lot of emphasis on the "OER" carbs that come with the car and states that the buyer must "sign a contract stating that the carbs stay with the car and that I have Right of First Refusal ..." http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/3410263267.html Opinions are very welcomed on this "gem". Chase

The color is a bit weird. I think that's what attracted me to the car. Hardway, I talked to you about your Z a few months ago but never heard back. How's it coming along? Chase