CW240Z

Also, if you're having trouble finding manuals about the 710, maybe look for a book about the Datsun 620 pickup. It has the same engine and carb setup as you and can help with trouble shooting your fuel problems. Chase

Check out Ratsun.net if you cannot find your answers here. Your engine was popular in several models of Datsuns, which are more frequently discussed on Ratsun.net http://community.ratsun.net/ Good luck and cool looking wagon Chase

Awesome looking Z! I love the color combination you went with. Chase

Thanks for the information guys. For some reason the motor I bought would not work after the mast was extended, so I pulled the mast out and installed it with the other motor. Chase

I have a 72 240z and the original antenna came with two plug-in wires (blue w/red stripe & blue w/white stripe) and the ground at the top of the antenna body. I recently bought a 73 antenna that only has one plug in with all three wires inside. So, matching the wires, I spliced the 73 antenna to receive the 72 plug-ins. The antenna is manual and works by a little toggle switch I have mounted on the console. My problem is, I was able to get the antenna to fully extend but now it will not go down. Any suggestions to fix this will be greatly appreciated. Chase

Yes. When it runs I can't engage a gear. I had the trans completely out when I was doing the clutch job and changed the fluid in the process. There weren't any signs of broken components or pieces of metal in the fluid. The drive shaft is properly connected as well. My problems so far don't seem to be related to the recent clutch job. I'm thinking that it is an internal problem as well. Most likely I'll find a 5 speed to replace it. Thanks for the input! Chase

When the truck is not running I can shift through the gears easily with and without the clutch engaged. Its only when it is running that I can't get it into gear. The weird thing is that the truck won't grind or take off it I start it in gear. Chase

I bought a 76 Datsun 620 last summer that had been sitting for a few years untouched. I got the truck running but could not get it in gear to drive, so I went through the clutch/transmission of the 620 trying to figure out what was wrong. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and installed a new clutch kit. After bleeding the system out it still would not go in gear. It's odd because when its running and I try to change gears the trans won't grind or make a sound. Its as if I'm hitting a wall and there's no gear there. Is there something I'm missing or is my problem deeper in the trans? Chase

I was in your position last summer on an endless search for a booster. I would suggest buying a new one instead of someone's here who has it laying around. You never know how long that one will last you. Black Dragon was the best option for me, their price was relatively cheap without sending a core in. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/images/0055.jpg Hope this helps, Chase

Jim, When's the next time you're bringing the Z out to a show? I haven't seen it for awhile and it's beautiful! Chase

The flat part faces you. Good luck! Chase

Kevin, Good to here that there's another Z guy in the area! A group from ZCOT shows up for Cars and Coffee every month in Plano. It would be nice to see one of your cars there and talk about them. Chase

Agreed, who knows what could be lurking underneath that rattle-can paint job. What were your intentions with the car? Chase

I love how the wiring harness is all tangled up against the firewall. Of all the things to buy for $15,000... Chase

Here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-CENTER-CAPS-FOR-INDY-WHEELS-US-MAG-4-EAR-4-LUGS-LUG-2-1-2-SCREW-HOLE-SPACING-/200741509261?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebd20588d&vxp=mtr#ht_1592wt_1270 Chase

I have used that kit before. I wouldn't exactly recommend it but it gets the job done. It started to peel off after about a year. You have to brush it on instead of using a spray can, and it's not as smooth looking compared to the finish Mike W has on his. Chase

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/True-Survivor-One-Owner-Collector-Datsun-/160777570675?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item256f170973#v4-44 Here is a good example of a 73', and what they sell for in great, original, condition. Chase

Carl, I have a few pictures of it if you click on my garage. That is how it looked when I bought it. The car is all original, with the exceptions of a few re-sprays on the quarters to cover where the chrome guard strips went. I have all the documentation of the car from when it was new, service records, and anything purchased for it. The car was last inspected in 1986, and sat in dry storage till I bought it last year. The car truly is 99% rust-free. Good battery area, floorboards, dog legs, hatch area, etc. It has just about every dealer option on it as well. The car was worth well more than the $2500 he was asking for it, but no where near $8-10,000. I'm not trying start an argument with with about what these cars are worth. What sells a Z, like what you said and what the one you posted has, is documentation, originality, early model, and few rust issues. It is a great example of one, but in today's market it will never fetch the $16-18,000 price range. I personally looked for one about a year before I got mine. I have yet to see a 73' model, unrestored, sell in the $8-10,000 price range that said you would buy the blue one for. Once again this is just what I've seen on the Texas market around me. If it was down here $3500 would be fair with all the extras it has. I do not doubt that they would be more expensive in other areas around the country. Thanks, Chase

That sounds a bit high for a Z car in today's market, especially for a 73' model. If that car was down here in Texas, I wouldn't call it a deal for $3500. However, it is a fine example of an overall clean Z. I paid $2500 for my 72, and it was completely original with 50k documented miles on it. Pay what you feel comfortable buying it for since it you are not planning on flipping the car for a profit in a month. Chase

Looks like a nice little bench to sit on. How heavy is that thing? Chase

That sounds like a big mess waiting to happen. Red-Kote is a red syrup, and a bit translucent so your calipers would look like you melted red Jolly Ranchers on them. When I coated my tank with the stuff I could still see the metal surface through the thick coating. I don't think it's rated for high temps either. Chase

That blue interior is beautiful, awesome car! Chase

I don't know know the exact reason why Red-Kote works that way. If the tank is not spotless, fuel gets behind the POR-15 liner and peels it up, like what rust bubbles do on a car paint job. The Red-Kote creates a thicker coating since it is like a syrup. It sticks to anything and can't peel off so I feel its more durable. These are just my personal experiences with using both products, since I am the only one with bad experiences with POR-15, it must of been human error in the failing process. Chase

Yes, yes it was. I think I spent quite a while pulling strands out and re-cleaning the even bigger mess . The muriatic acid washes are a key part in the whole process with POR-15, you can never be too clean with it. Chase

I purchased the POR-15 tank sealing kit a year ago for my 72 Z. A few months after the coating was applied, I had a car starving for fuel and lacking any acceleration. Turns out the coating had peeled off like cheap wallpaper and clogged all my lines/filters, even though I had followed the instructions given. I have seen mixed reviews for this stuff, the tank must be absolutely spotless for the POR-15 to work correctly. If you go the DIY way and prep the tank yourself, I'd recommend using Red-Kote. This stuff is idiot proof and is not as finicky or expensive as the POR-15 kit that requires all the chemicals. Chase