CW240Z

Looks like a good solid starting point. Keep us updated on the progress! Chase

After thinking about this and considering what many of you have suggested, I'm going to build some "beefier" brackets and bolt them where the bumper brackets bolt to. Ill post pics of my final setup this weekend. Chase

I'm taking the car with me out of town for a few days so $65+ a day can get expensive. Plus, I need to transport it and another Z from a shop a and back few times so you can see where having my own would be more affordable. Let me clarify my intents, I was planing on building brackets that use the same bolt holes as the original tow hooks were mounted with, not using the hooks them self Just want to make sure everyone is on the same page. Beermanpete, I have seen it done the way you explained, I might end up going that route. Chase

Hmmmm I have used U-Haul before and it was great and painless, my problem is that i will be towing quite a few trips so the price per day would be more than I want to pay. Are those holes that the tow hooks mount into the frame rails strong enough to be used for towing? I have a CNC Plasma cam and other tools at my disposal and I am trying to build custom brackets that I can bolt to the car to tow with.

I've done a little research, but have not come across an answer. Where is the best place to tow my 240z from the front? I have seen it done from the bumper brackets, but that is some pretty thin metal that the brackets bolt to. I did notice that I have two tow hooks below the valance. According to this forum they are not supposed to be there and were intended to be removed by the dealer. I'm using a tow bar and any insight would be greatly appreciated. Chase

2-3k is a realistic range for resale. This summer I bought a 72 Z almost identical to yours. Same color, originality, had all the books/manuals, etc. Rust wasnt so bad on mine since it had been in dry storage since 1986. In the world of selling and buying cars for a living, just giving the car a thorough detailing and cleaning would give it more appeal and possibly a higher price. Like everyone has mentioned, take some more detail pics of it since not everyone can see it in person. By the way, what's the story of that red firebird in the background? Chase

I had this same problem with the SUs on my 72. I had a completely new fuel system, new cap, rotor, and good plugs. Carbs and dizzy were dialed in correctly and timing was perfect. However, under load the car felt bogged down when I quickly accelerated, but ran great when in neutral or slower acceleration. After ruling out all options, I pulled the plugs for the heck of it to check them. Turns out I had a bunch of fouled plugs which were causing poor accelerating. After putting in new plugs the car smoked the back tires off and accelerated like a dream. It's probably a dumb suggestion, but check the plugs, I didn't see that you mentioned anything about them in your description. Chase

Not to cause an argument , but I have to disagree with that. A car that has been sitting since 88, in my eyes, means that it is most likely a low millage car, and retains a lot of original parts (like mine did). The car doesn't look to be modified or altered very much, so you won't have to solve or go through someone else's "rigging up" or cheap fixes to get it running. Like bobc said, seals and rubber parts will have to be replaced as you go, but that is something that any Z would need regardless of how long it sat. If you are considering your sons safety in the car, buy it, fix it up so he can learn how to work on cars, and sell it for a safer car like a 300zx as mentioned by bobc. At 1300, there's plenty of room for profit. Chase

That spoiler is a bit excessive... Looks like a great starting point for a father and son project car. That car would be gone in a heartbeat down here for 1300. Chase

Pictures would also help too....

Welcome to the forum Jim! Both cars sound like great deals, I think it all depends on how much of the work you can do yourself. i bought a 72 Z with the same description as the one you are looking at. It was parked in 86, and had not ran till I got it. IMO, the 240z looks better, is a little bit easier to work on w/o all the late 70s EFI, and are worth a little more. I love the 280z though. A/C can be an expensive thing to get, especially one that actually works good. Your son might have to bite the bullet and not have air for awhile. It has not costed me very much to get my Z to a road worthy condition since I did everything myself. The car was in average shape and rust free. For $1300, pick the 240z. You could have a budget of $2600 and make a dependable car. Chase

Looks like you got yourself a good starting point. as long as you are happy with it $1300 isn't a bad price. Keep us updated on the progress! Chase

Zedyone, just want to say THANK YOU SO MUCH for doing this. You have put a lot of time into this, and I can't wait for it to happen. Looking forward to getting a shirt and meeting you guys in person. Chase

Mine is correct. Chase

Maybe a neon green? Kinda one with a yellowish hue? Maybe a little to flashy....... Anyways whatever is is I can't wait to get one. Chase

Could be a sticky rocker arm. Mine on cylinder 5 ticks when the car starts up, but quiets down a bit after it has warmed up and oil has been pumped through the system.

If only that was in Texas...

Zedyone, if you are still planning on making shirts I could come up with a few designs in Photoshop if you haven't already made one. Chase

Sounds like a plan, count me in.

I will most likely be able to swing by the Austin C&C on my way back to Dallas. What time would we need to leave Fredericksburg Sunday? Chase

Last night I decided to do something productive and cleaned the side of the engine up. Sorry about the poor quality pics. Chase

Booked my room this morning. I won't be there till Saturday morning around 11 am. Chase

Koalia, did you get the glove box liner from Black Dragon? Just wondering, my died too while I was trying to remove my clock the other day and I'm needing a new one. Chase

That sounds about right, mine is a 72, built in April of 71. The PD# is somewhere in that range. Chase

Arne Were you ever able to make a sound clip of your exhaust system? Just curious to what that Magnaflow sounds like on there compared to the one sold in the MSA Dynomax kit. Chase