johnbell47

I did not paint. I did'nt see any need to, the car is rust free. I believe i would touch up any areas that had any rust or bare metal though if I were you. I used quietmat instead of Dynamat. It did help a bunch, but the high density foam pad I put under the headliner and rear carpet did more for noise. I used camper pad that I got from Walmart, cheap!

I see them in the diagram, I don't believe I have these in my car. I put it back together like I found it though, so they weren't in there to begin with. Are these rubber?? In the FSM I have it does not address rear struts, it just refers you to the FA section to service. Reckon that these spacers take the place of the strut bearing in the front strut? Same place, right? I think I'm gonna quit fooling with this damn thing and just go ahead and order these, some new KYB's and new strut mounts too. Won't be too bad if i just do the rear and then do the front a little later.

O.k, went to MSA and did not see the rubber part between the spring perch and the top insulator mount, went to the haynes manual and it ain't there either...? Are you sure there's another piece. I remember now using the Haynes manual due to the Datsun shop manual being so out of date..

As to the drive shaft alignment, I have the RT mount and have aligned with a laser on differential flange and on the rear of the T-5 transmission mount. yes, the nose of the diff had to come down 7/8 of an inch to get the lasers to match. That was a major issue on "Buzz". This is a different issue, its not as consistent as the drive shaft buzz, its more like a suspension related jiggle..(is that a word!) I don't remember any rubber parts other than the big rubber biscuit mount at the top with the three bolts and one in the center for the strut cartridge. I may be missing the rubber between the spring perch and the strut mount!! I have a factory manual, which is of absolutely no help due to not even mentioning strut cartridges anywhere, same with the Haynes manual. I guess I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can figure out what is missing or wrong. I'm gonna go look at the MSA catalog now!

I have nice centerline 15 inch wheels and Falken tires, they are bigger than stock but not by a whole lot. I know I pumped the tires up to 32 P.S.I. and the car rode like a log wagon. I think I have them at about 26 now and it is lots better, wonder what a good pressure would be? Tires do not look low at 26. As I said, the megaphone effect went away when I added the 1/2 inch Walmart Camper pad to the roof and rear deck, that really was a good cheap deal, the Quiet mat was not cheap and did not do the job. I have the care quiet enough, its just that niggling little vibration. I don't have bump stops. But they really don't come into play unless the suspension is bottomed out, do they? I was under the impression that if you used a strut cartridge instead of the stock rebuildable strut, you didn't need bump stops. Am I wrong? Anybody want to wade in on the KYB's??

I think I have the sound thing down, I quiet matted the entire bottom, doors, roof, etc. and added 1/2 camper pad foam to the headliner and the rear floor. that helped a lot! but still, my question is should I spend the 250.00 bucks on the mounts or not? I am leaning toward KYB G2's for the struts. If you have any better suggestions,,,please let me know!! thanks for the reply. By the way,,Were these cars quiet when they were new?? You would know, if you can remember that far back..I can say that since I'm 65 myself..I can afford this, I just have to justify it!!!

I am doing my dead level best to make my Early 260 into a boulevard cruiser. It is a hybrid, with a mild, 350-350 chev, I have queit matted, 4 mufflers, two glass paks up front and two turbos out the rear with 2 1/2 pipes and a X pipe. Drone is manageble. Driveshaft is aligned. (major good! vibe stopper) All wheel bearings disassembled and greased, with new parts as needed. new rubber (stock) suspension parts, No Urethane anywhere, and all parts replaced. New tie rod ends, ball joints, complete brakes with new rotors, shoes, etc. This car is pretty smooth. BUT! it still has an anoying vibration that you can primarily just feel in your arse, or through the seat. I pulled the struts out during the rebuild, I don't know what they are, but they were stamped "Made in Venezula", they felt good, so I put em back in. I was feeling kinda poor about then due to all the other parts, so I took a short cut. Anyway, I have decided to repalce all the struts with new. I am not going to shortcut this time, pulling struts is a pain in the arse and I ain't doin this again!! My question. Looks like strut mounts are at least 57.00 or so apiece, best price. Mine look good but they are 40 years old. Does the rubber go bad? Will it make a diff? Anybody been here before? What is the absolute best strut for a creamy smooth ride? Thanks!!!

These are from a 1995 Lexus 300 sedan. I cut a gasket out of some 1/4 inch rubber I had laying around and bolted them to the MSA brackets. These babies weigh about 3 pounds apiece and dang sho do not shake! I don't have the electric hooked up yet but I robbed the dash switch and do have a wiring diagram.

I'll sell you a set for 30 bucks plus postage. these are minus the brackets. They vibrate so much in my V-8 260 z that I can't use em. I've bought a lot of stuff from MSA and usually it's good, these are just so-so. I went with 1995 GS 300 Lexus mirrors. They pretty much fit the MSA brackets with hole relocation, they are power and they are quality to the bone.

It was the pinion angle. I used the lasers on it and it was out 7/8ths of a inch. All I had to do was rotate the nose of the diff down by modifying the Ron Tyler mount a little. Smooth as silk up to 100 now. Thanks for the suggestion, feel good about yourself for the rest of the day!!

I've read that thread, and will check the pinion angle. Since I replaced all of the suspension rubber, with new stock rubber I need to have the front and rear aligned anyway, I'll have all 4 balanced again,, with special attention paid. And yes, it does have nice 15 inch billet centerlines on it.

new tires, balanced twice, wheel bearings are original, but were disassembled, cleaned, regreased, smooth as silk. even the seals were still good.

I have an annoying buzz in the rear end. I have changed all the U joints, using AC delco made in the USA joints, changed all of the rubber suspension components, greased the half shafts, dissasembled the rear hubs and greased the bearings and everything else I can think of. At 65 or so, I get a buzz that shakes the mirrors, shakes my butt in the seat, etc This is high freq. I got under the rear of the car today and put a dial indicator on the half shafts and found that there was .006 on both at the differential end, and almost nothing at the hub end. then I happened to deflect the center of the shaft with the indicator on it, the damn thing bends in the middle about .0010. This car only has 54,000 on it and I can't imaging these shafts being worn completely out.. Anybody got any clue about how much flex in these shafts is o.k. Is this why follks want to go with CV joints, etc. BTW, I am running a stock R-180, with a 350 chev and a T-5. I also noticed that the passenger side yolk at the differential has some play too...Car is nice and smooth up to 65.

I put my rear wheels on ramps, put the car in top gear and crawled under, I rocked the car back and forth, then had a helper rock the crap out of it and finally saw the slack was int he moustache bar bolts on the back of the diff. I pulled them, loctited em and torqued the bejeezus out of em. Tried again and found that the other end of the moustache bar had movement and clunk also. Fixed that and no more clunk. I don't guess I need to tell you to not let the dang car fall off the ramps and smush you, do I?

I found it. It was the light feed to the console. I unplugged C-3 and jumpered one pin at a time till i found the one that sparked. I had hooked an old ammeter in place of the fuse, so I could see when it pegged. I cut the wire and killed the short. That wire goes to the light in the ashtray in the console. I'll run a new wire over there, fixed.

I have been blowing park light fuses at random for a year, sometimes will be o.k. for a month, sometimes a day. I have done Dave's parking light upgrade and my own headlight relay upgrade. Everything worked good after the upgrades, but now, two months later we are back to blowing the fuse. The good thing is now I have a hard short and can't hold the fuse at all. This is the wierd part: If I unplug The C-3 (black) firewall connector the fuse will hold. If I leave this one plugged in (C-3) and unplug the C-1 and C-5 (green both) lighting connectors it still blows the dang fuse..Any Ideas?

Man, that is purdy!! Been doing the same thing, but mine does not look as good as yours..Inspires me to be more anal..

Assuming that you have removed the 4 bolts that hold them together. Clamp the old rotor in a vise, large chisel in the joint between the rotor and hub. Beat the crap out of it!

Had I seen these before, I might have considered them. I did not. I did want to lower the nose of the diff in order to improve my drive shaft angles..I have a hybrid with a T-5.

This is a lot tougher than it should be, I have read a bazillion threads and I guess I did not realze what I was getting in to..First, new U joints on the half shafts, one was brinnelled and the bolts at the hub end were loose, and I thought Ah haa..well nope did'nt fix it. Then I built a Ron Tyler mount....did'nt do it..then I tried the brand new bolts on the drive shaft that has nylock nuts,,,loose! what, also they were 5/16 SAE, should've been 8 mm X 30's..replaced them...Nope!! then ordered moustache bar bushings and while I was waiting one them I crawled under the car with it in Low gear and yanked the wheels around..guess what! The dang rear studs were loose on the rear diff mount...I replaced the bushings any way...Got it!!!! I know all of you have heard all of this before..Check it all...do it at one time and tighten the pooey out of every nut and bolt..use locktite...heck use red locktite..your clunk can be clunked!!:classic:

any way I could borrow your bush flaring tool, I live in north texas and would be more than happy to pay shipping both ways..thanks john bell

Where do you get this stuff, how much does it cost, what does it fit? Thanks, my early 260 is leaking like a sieve!!