-
Wire identification
I've been inside a non-turbo 83 ECU, and it was, in fact, computer controlled. They were running a Hitachi 6801 embedded controller. And even though I've never personally been inside the turbo ECU, I am nearly 100 % confident that it would also contain a microcontroller as the turbo required much more control than the NA version. So yes, the later years were digital, and computer controlled. Don't know when they made the switch though.
-
Wire identification
Don't forget the "black box" or the "voodoo" part. "Dr. Bosch's Black Box of Analog Voodoo and Wizardry". That's what makes the engine go vroom. * "DBBBOVAW"
-
Distributor rotor identification
That's awesome. You totally nailed it!!
-
EGR relay, can i remove it?
Is your 260Z a manual, or an automatic transmission? On the manual cars, the EGR relay only controls the EGR system. But on the automatic trans cars, the EGR relay also controls the ignition timing by switching the ignition module to use either the retarded and advanced pickups from the distributor. So, if your car is a manual, then yes... The only implication of removing the relay (and it's associated wiring) is to the EGR system. But if your car is an automatic (or came from the factory originally as an automatic), then there will be implications to the ignition system as well.
-
Saving car #34464
Haha!! Very nice! I'll PM you! Thanks!!
-
Saving car #34464
Unless you're really worried about authenticity for your specific build date, I wouldn't worry about it. Basically, it appears there were two versions of that early master cylinder, but the only difference was how they marked the "F" and "R" output ports. Up until around August or September of 1970 the masters had the output port locations stamped with the letter "F" or "R". But then after that, they went to "cast-in" identification marks. I jokingly called them "early early", vs just "early". Haha! The bottom line is that the master cylinder you had rebuilt was used on cars before the fall of 1970, so it's "too early" for your build date. There was some discussion about the changes in the early style master cylinder here in this thread: Page 3 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65579-brake-master-cylinder-46010-e4602-up-to-91971/?page=3
-
Saving car #34464
A little pedantic and I'm not sure how detailed you're trying to be with the restoration, but neither of those master cylinders are the correct one for your car. The correct one is same shape as the one you had rebuilt by White Post, but the "F" and "R" circuit markings should be cast in instead of stamped in. The master you installed is for an earlier car than what you're working on. So out of curiosity, was White Post able to completely rebuild that master? I was trying to rebuild a cylinder like that but was unable to find a source for rebuild guts.
-
Saving car #34464
Haha!! I do!! I need one!
-
Choosing an SU Needle - If I have needle station info and real world AFR, can I use that to find the right needle?
Disconcerting that your AFM numbers went a little leaner when you tightened everything up. The tightening might be related, or it might be a red herring. But disconcerting either way. So did you ever try giving it a little bit of choke enrichment with the lever while you're driving? Does it react as expected and the numbers come down?
-
Jump to Last Post for Guest Users
Oh, and something else changed recently... Couple days ago, this thread was not visible to me unless I signed in. Maybe the whole sub-forum of "website questions" was hidden to guest users? But today it's not hidden. I was able to view this thread without signing in. Obviously not able to POST in it until I signed in, but I WAS able to read it. Not sure that's how you wanted things to work.
-
Jump to Last Post for Guest Users
When I visit the forum, I use the "Topics Last 24 Hours" option. And I poke around without signing in because it's faster, easier, simpler, and I can do it from pretty much any location or device without having to worry about any security concerns. So it's safer. When Zed Head checked, I may have been one of the 135 people viewing the forum without being signed in. This is the page I start with: https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/20/?&view=condensed When I'm not signed in and I click on the "1 hour ago" link, it takes me to the first post in an 18 reply thread. - Undesirable However if I DO sign in and click on the same "1 hour ago" link, it takes me to the post that was made 1 hour ago. - This is what I want But regardless if I'm signed in or not... if I go to the All Activity page here >> https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/ and click on the "1 hour ago" link, it doesn't matter whether I'm signed in or not... It always takes me the end of the thread. (Again, which is more desirable, at least to me (and Zed Head).) So @Mike , the code is clearly in there. Signed in or not.. Just figure out why the "all activity" page operates differently than the "last 24 hour" option. It shouldn't be a cookie thing since it would work the same way for all users. And all of this is clearly a different discussion than "unread since last visit"... THAT most certainly requires cookies, etc. But the links we're talking about should not be a cookie or sign in thing.. And as for menu at the top. I like the way you have it now. It's there if you need it, but off the top of the screen not taking up any unnecessary space if you don't.
-
Choosing an SU Needle - If I have needle station info and real world AFR, can I use that to find the right needle?
Yeah, even for just another data point, it would be interesting to re-enable the throttle opener system to see what it does to the numbers when you let off the pedal and coast. And as for the rich blip... I'm not sure I understand your thoughts on experimenting with a heavier oil in the dampers than what you already have in there. It appears that the rich blip is already showing the dampers are doing what they are supposed to do. If you want an even deeper rich blip, or a blip that last longer (wider), then you would run heavier oil. But do you really think you need that?
-
Choosing an SU Needle - If I have needle station info and real world AFR, can I use that to find the right needle?
Oh, and about that short rich spike when you blip the throttle on a downshift? I see that as your dampers working and doing exactly what they are designed to do... Provide a short term enriching of the mixture when the throttle plates are opened. Just like an accelerator pump would do.
-
Choosing an SU Needle - If I have needle station info and real world AFR, can I use that to find the right needle?
Carbs do unusual things (and typically unwanted things) fully closed at high manifold vacuum. The typical thing the SU's do is go very rich though, not very lean. So how about you put a vacuum gauge on it and drive around a little with it connected? Maybe you are looking for a vacuum leak. And... Do you have the throttle opener device installed, connected, and working? It's only job is to prevent the carbs from doing unwanted things at very high manifold vacuums.
-
Do you like the hybrid view or the traditional forum view?
I don't care for it. I think it was better at the top. But that's just me. I am thankful that the statistics panel at the right is gone. I assume that info is available by some "thread stats" button somewhere. So the aspiring young nerds who really like that kind of stuff can still find it if they want to.