Captain Obvious

Isn't Haltech all hashed out? Are you doing something strange that they've never run into before?

On the main EFI harness, the black wires go to the temp sensor and the green ones go to the thermotime. ON THE MAIN HARNESS. As for the little stub harnesses that connect to the main harness and convert from bullet to EFI style connectors, I'm not positive of the wire colors*. One wiring diagram I have indicates that those same wire colors were continued all the way to the thermostat housing (pair of blacks to the temp sensor and pair of greens to the thermotime), but another FSM diagram I have indicates everything past the bullet connectors is black. So as for the stubs... I'm not so sure. But of course, since they're just a foot long, you can easily verify the connections just by tracing the stubs back to the main harness. * And I can't check my 77 as my stubs have been remade and aren't original colors anymore.

THANK you!!! I was beginning to think that nobody got that at all!!

I made (surprised?) my own extractor tools for those connectors. I'll take a pic and post next time I'm in the shop. You think the male pins are difficult? Just wait till you try to take one of the female receptacles out! And you're also trying to mate new parts with those? If so, there's nothing from Molex or Tyco that is going to work. Everything is the wrong size. You're going to have to spring for the Yazaki originals. I got mine from CycleTerminal >>> http://www.cycleterminal.com/yazaki-ypc.html And note that they have extractor tools for those contacts... Just $58 for the set! I believe Eastern Beaver has these too, but I didn't have enough of an order to warrant overseas shipping. If you're going to put an order in (from either place), let me know and maybe I can add on a little bit. Since you're working with headlights... Are you looking for the big contact too, or just the small one (like the ones you pictured above)?

She's a Beauty!!

And as you mentioned, you might pass smog the way it is. I don't know the details.

Hmmm.... On the fuel injected cars, the only thing that is really split 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 is the ECU. Everything else is pretty much shared evenly between all the cylinders. If you really think you've got an issue that is split like that, you could try swapping a couple of the injector wires. I think some of the wires have enough slack in them that you can move them around. I'm thinking you could swap the wires going to 3 and 4 to see what happens. If you swap 3 - 4 and then find that your sooty plug follows the injector connector, then you might want to look into a different ECU. Clean up those plugs, swap the wires, and drive around for a little bit and then pull the plugs again to see what they look like?

Glad to help. And of course, but some of the potential culprits may depend on the year you're working on. For example, (quick look at some of the wiring diagrams indicate that) 75 and 76 have a connector (C-2) between the fuse and the multifunction switch, while 77 and 78 do not. So if you're working on a 75 or 76, that connector may be corroded as well. But basically... Yeah. I would first start by putting a meter on both sides of the fuse and see what happens when you turn the switch on. Both sides should be solid battery voltage regardless of the switch position. And then work your way downstream from there if the problem isn't the fuse itself. Also, I'm assuming the fusible link and wiring to the "high side" of all the fuses is good or you would have mentioned a whole host of other electrical issues. I'm assuming this problem is relatively isolated to the lights. I mean, if you had a problem with the fusible link, it would show up in a whoooooole bunch of other areas as well. If everything else pretty much works, you ought to be able to start at the fuse box and work your way down from there.

Excellent. Not that it really matters, but I'm unclear on what Jeff meant by "it was the wires in the distributor", but like I said, doesn't really matter. I'm just glad you're fixed. And looking forward.... I'm gonna be no help whatsoever on any paint questions. Man's got to know his limitations.

First of all, I got no problem whatsoever with this: License plate bulbs (two), the remaining marker light, bunch of dash lights, glove box, cigarette lighter, ash tray.... Probably others. All in parallel? I got no problem with a couple Ohms to ground on the G/W. As for the readings you're seeing on the switch... I'm thinking you've got a high impedance connection somewhere upstream in that G/L wire. When the switch is in the OFF position and there is nothing connected to drag the G/L wire down, it floats up to battery voltage and looks good. But as soon as you turn the switch on, all those filaments in parallel will drag that high impedance source to ground. I'm guaranteeing that there IS current flowing. Just not enough for your home wiring style clamp-on meter to detect. So I'm thinking that's the issue. Finding it is a different story. Fuse that looks good, but isn't really? Barely holding on by a tiny sliver of metal inside? End caps that have been overheated and mostly de-soldered themselves? Corrosion on the fuse clips? Corrosion in the headlight switch? (Unlikely because you would have probably seen that while you were messing with the switch). Solder joint on the back of the switch that looks good, but really isn't. (I've never seen you solder. LOL) Anyway, happy hunting.

Glad you got it sorted! Enjoy the ride!

The only function of that arm on the front is for anchoring one end of the return spring? Seems like they could have put that somewhere else. Is there a center support tower? If there is, maybe on the rear side of that? Maybe at the back between the rearmost tower and the flange for connecting to the shepherd's hook? Does that use a custom adjustable length shepherd's hook?

Sure do! And I apologize they are still sitting there like that!!

Thanks. I was thinking about doing just that (after I saw your post on your 510 thread). "Test" out the amount of drop before I permanently committed to it. But I still need a pair of struts!

What do you mean when you say the pendulum slowly stops? Does the clock seem to work fine for a couple seconds in the normal position, but then over time the pendulum seems to lose amplitude and eventually comes to a stop? Pendulum won't start by itself, but seems to work OK for a little while if you give it a kick-start? I've seen that before. Any chance you can post a video? I'm with Dave... I suspect some long term drift of electrical components.

I'm not exactly sure what you're thinking is deformed, but if it's the bent looking "teeth" on the white pendulum gear, then there's no problem with that. They are supposed to look like that. That's what changes the "back-and-forth" motion of the pendulum into a unidirectional rotation of the next gear in the gear-train (the pink-ish colored gear). In other words, the pendulum gear changes direction as it swings back and forth, but the next gear in the system always rotates in the same direction. Those bent looking teeth are the clutch that allows that to happen.

Thanks for checking! And even if you do find the mate for the 240 version, that won't work for me. They need to be 260 or later. Here's to hoping I can turn something up. Kicking myself for not grabbing a set before the pandemic started. I had a couple options for a pair for under a hundred bucks and didn't get to it.

I suspect it's just designed too close to the hairy edge of working (or not working). The one or two prototypes probably worked great on the bench, but now that there are more of them out in the field, the parts tolerances variability and operating environment are having unforeseen results. Not that I've ever had that happen to me or anything........

That would be great. Let me know what you find!

Got it!

@Patcon, if you have a pair, that would be fantastic. I was hoping for a complete pair (with springs) so I wouldn't have to transfer everything over from the pair currently on the car. Best thing would be something with springs and hubs. I guess I don't care about rotors unless you've got something in really good shape. I was expecting to replace the rotors and strut inserts. I've got some feelers out for a pair. I've sent a couple messages to FB marketplace sellers and have gotten just one response from any of them. I'm not a FB guy at all, and I'm assuming I'm doing something wrong. I've also got a possibility on a pair from a guy here on the forum who will be getting a parts car soon. But at this point, it sounds like this project needs to pick up a little speed.

I don't have one of those clocks and have never seen the insides of one before your pics. So my only source of info is your pictures. That said... The resistor is a 200 Ohm, 1 Watt resistor. And the diode is a Zener diode, which is a little special compared to a normal diode. The important parameter of the diode would be it's "Zener voltage", and I cannot tell what that voltage is simply from the pictures. However, from the way it's used in the circuit, I would expect that it's zener voltage is between 5 Volts and 8 Volts. I doubt there is anything wrong with either of those components, but if you really really want to know more about the Zener, I can talk you through how to measure the voltage in question. And from what I've seen, you do a great job. Sometimes, you will go too far over your skis. Hopefully it's recoverable.

So it sounds to me like the answer to the question is "Use the coldest plug you can that stays clean." Would that be accurate?

Embarrassingly... No. I have spring perches which have been removed from a pair of scrap front strut tubes, but I never procured a set of front struts on which to transplant the donor perches. I'm not confident in the success of this project to just go ahead and modify the struts that are currently on my car. I want another spare set to cut up. In any event, here's where I am now: I have recently started a couple different avenues to get my hands on a pair of front struts to finish this project, but haven't had anything delivered yet. And no... I didn't start trying again because you prompted me. I really did start a couple weeks ago. So, is anyone parting out a 260 or 280 that has a pair of front struts available?

That capacitor is just used as a filter for a local derived power supply to drive the clock. The diode and resistor are a simple voltage regulator to knock the battery voltage down to a lower level. And the cap is there to make sure the clock circuitry has a nice clean voltage from which to operate. It would be very unlikely for it to affect the operation of the clock, especially on the bench. Enjoy the extra horsepower. Haha! You talk like you don't know what you're doing most of the time, but I think, in reality you got skills. Well done!