Captain Obvious

Snuggles.

I was thinking the same thing when I was reading about the difficulties of getting that pin out. Seems like it should be a relatively simple matter of pushing that pin backwards using the shaft as the "anchor" for some kind of device to hook on*. In fact, if the large end of the pin (the non threaded end) is not proud of the surface on the fork casting, you wouldn't even need a recess for the pin to press through. Since it's tapered, all you need to do is break it free a little and it should move much easier after that. * Proof is left to the student?

I suspect it was the cussing. That sometimes works for me too.

LOL! The IC's have numbers on them, but there's no info (that I can find) anywhere about what's inside. My assumption is that they are parts made by Hitachi for use only inside Hitachi produced devices and they didn't publish datasheets for them outside their own business. So you put a lamp in place of one injector and it blinked. That tests one output transistor. Can you move the lamp around to the other injectors and make sure the second output transistor is "working" too? If the wiring harness hasn't been messed with, I believe the injectors are grouped 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. You can pull the ECU off the harness and Ohm out the wires to the main ECU connector if you have to. As for the altitude compensations and stuff like that... The cars that did not need that stuff (non CA?) simply did not have them installed. My assumption is that the ECU defaults to "normal" non-altitude corrected if the other stuff is just left as no-connects. In other words, I strongly assume that you can just leave all the altitude compensation pins unconnected and it should work like a 49 state version.

My build buddy hit the PCV screen holder screws with an impact and said they came out easy-peasy. Thanks for the info guys. On another topic, this was my experience pulling that troublesome rear main bearing cap. I made this little puller adapter contraption from a scrap parts I had laying around. Riddled with extra holes from previous fixturing and holding uses. Anyway, couple holes and some threaded rod: Put it on the rear main cap and run the three threaded parts down into the holes in the cap. The two smaller threaded parts get threaded into the oil pan mounting holes while the larger part goes into the other threaded hole in the cap. Put a couple washers under the puller as jacking points and then run the nuts down against the puller to lift the cap out. It's not pretty (or symmetric), but it's what I had laying around. When you run the nuts down, it pulls the cap out a little. Keep stacking washers and repeating the process until you have the cap off: The FSM uses just the one larger threaded hole, but I found the bearing cap tends to cokk sideways as you pull it. I found I could keep the cap even and pull much straighter out if I used the oil pan mounting bolts as well as just the traditional puller hole.

Hahaha!!! I saw that commercial a little while ago. Loved it.

Consider it done. I'll put a set aside for you.

And about that HybridZ page... "If I remember correctly... The pics are wrong. The resistor designations are non-existent. And there's talk of a lamda sensor. All that spells different ECU."

Electrically conductive coatings can be measured, but depending on the style of coating, it might not be as simple as sticking your generic VOM leads into it. If it's intended to be "static dissipative", it might be a high resistance. In the MegOhm range. And in that range, the resistance through your body might be enough to get a reading on the meter, so if you're touching the leads (or what you're measuring) with your fingers, you won't know if it's the coating, or you.

I've never seen a schematic for the entire ECU. I've reverse engineered a little bit of it (very little). One of the sections I DID do however, is the output transistor section. Pretty self explanatory. I'll see if I can dig that up.

I've got a spare set if you need one. I had zero, so I put out a request a little while ago that was generously answered by @240260280. Then shortly after his gift set arrived, I lucked into a second set in a box of misc Z parts off craigslist. So now I have two sets and would happily send a set your way with the next shipment headed your way. But if I know you, the new set is already on it's way to you.

Sorry... I've hear that the silver coating is ELECTRICALLY conductive. I believe the belief was static dissipative or spark prevention? Apologize for the confusion.

LOL!

It sounds like your A11-600.... unit has a problem. My first WAG would be a blown output transistor and you're running on three cylinders. You should be able to check those big TO-3 buggers in-situ. They're Darlingtons, but you should be able to check them with the ol' Simpson.

I've heard the belief that silver paint is special because it's conductive. Haven't done a lot of research though, but "I read it on the internet".

Cool. So you just verified that the ZX pick-up tube fits with the Z oil pan, right?

Thanks guys. I'll hit them with a little heat and try an impact driver. I haven't really put a lot of grunt into them yet because I was worried about fighting thread lock. Keep you posted! And in the meantime... Here's some catch-up pics. This was my experience popping that troublesome front expansion plug. I made this little adapter contraption for my slide hammer: Carefully drilled (making sure I did not drill too deep) and tapped a hole into the expansion plug to accept the adapter: Thread on the slide hammer and with a couple taps, out pops the plug: Don't know if it would work on all attempts, but so far, I'm batting 1000 at two for two.

So I've been slowly working on the two F54 blocks here and I've got a question, The two Phillips screws that hold the PCV vent baffle screen into the block... Mine aren't coming out easy and I'm wondering if they used thread lock on them. Anyone who has taken those out have trouble with them? Last thing I want to do is snap one of those off in a newly painted block @GGRIII 's in front and mine in the back: We used different paints on our blocks. I like mine better.

Well I know from holding the two of them in my hands that the stock ones for the ZX are different than the ones from the Z. The one for the ZX is a little longer and comes off at more of an angle towards the back of the engine (which makes sense since the sump is in the rear). There are pics on ebay of both styles, but without them side by side, it's really hard to see the differences. Looking at the oil pans though, the holes down into the sump look like they're pretty much in the same spots, so I don't know if you can actually get one style to fit into the pan that it wasn't designed for. That link to zcardepot seems to indicate that it's (at least possible) to share the same pickup tube on all years 70-83, but that may be an aftermarket difference from stock? In any event, if you've got the ZX pickup there, should be easy enough to bolt it on and see if the oil pan will fit into place.

I've done a little digging on the subject (because I'm in a similar situation), and my understanding is that any pan will bolt up to any block just fine. There are some issues however... First issue is fitment into the car. Either the original (middle sump) Z pan OR the rear sump ZX pan will work in the Z. But the converse is not true... The middle sump pan will not work in the ZX. But since you're putting the motor in a Z (and not a ZX), either pan would fit fine. Other issue is that I (believe) you need to use the correct sump pickup tube for the pan. In other words, if you're using a middle sump Z pan, you need the middle sump pickup. (And conversely, if you're using a rear sump ZX pan, you need to use the ZX pickup.

Yeah, if the pressure in that tank vent line gets about 2psi above the crankcase connection, it's supposed to burp the excess pressure off. If it has stuck in the past, I give strong money that it's stuck again. I've never opened one up, but from the pics and the description, it's just a couple springs and sealing balls inside.

You already bought the $649 machine, right? You're just looking to see if you can commend yourself on a worthwhile purchase, or need to kick yourself in the butt for buying an the expensive one when you could have bought one for a quarter the price that does the same thing? Well for making that decision, here's some fodder... The only thing fuzzy about that HF welder is the quality, and there's no invertor technology employed there. That HF welder is the big asss heavy lump of copper transformer that we talked about above. Works OK, but doesn't come with any of the adjustability that yours does. In fact, the only thing adjustable about that HF welder is weld pressure and the amount of time the power is applied (because you can let off the handle any time you want to). So it kinda all depends on what you're looking for... That HF welder is old bulletproof technology, but the results will be only as good as the guy using it. Your machine is programmable so you can get dependable consistent results from one weld to another even if you have no idea what you're doing. From what I've seen, in the small amount of poking around I've done for this thread, Telwin has a good reputation, and that spot welder seems to be well a respected portable unit. Not sure the same sentiment exists for the HF offering.

According to the label, that spot welder is made by Telwin. They are Italian (we already knew that). Web page here showing their products (prodotti) >> https://www.telwin.com/en/prodotti That welder is their Modular 230 (or an earlier version of the same), and if you dig down into that model, you can get to a datasheet. Here's some info from the datasheet that may help with the above academic discussion: Enjoy.

I don't think it's a typo. I think there's a way to interpret that spec that makes it "correct". The 2.5 Volt welding voltage is probably the open circuit voltage at the electrodes. Problem with converting that to a simple KVA rating, however, is that as soon as the electrodes are closed, you don't have 2.5 Volts anymore. You'll have something less. The 6000 Amp max welding current is probably a very short burst of current that occurs for a tiny instant of time when the electrodes are first connected. The "realistic" welding current is probably something much lower than that. The "rated power" is probably an averaged rating of how much power it draws under "normal circumstances". At 180 spots per hour, you're doing 3 per minute. If it takes ten seconds to position and ten seconds to weld, you've got a 50% duty cycle. My guess is you're drawing an ave of 2.3KW under those conditions. And something else thing to remember... The electronics inside the device consume power too. It's not all presented at the electrode tips. Some of the power consumed from the line cord goes into powering the device itself. It'll get hot inside and that power came from the same cord. So it may draw 500W quiescent power when just idling between welds. No idea.

Since you're not planning to use this in a professional every day heavy use application, my recommendation would be to use reviews instead of specs to compare. I suspect the big difference between welders is the duty cycle. And you probably won't be taxing the limits.