Captain Obvious

Couple of thoughts. First off, yes... if the distance piece is too short, it will completely bind the bearings when tightened. So getting accurate measurements of all the parts in question would be the best thing to do. As Zed Head mentioned, I modified a pair of (accurate, but) disposable calipers to fit down into the bearing recess and measure the distances between the bearing seating surfaces to make sure everything was within spec. And on one of the cars I did, I found that one of the housings was narrower than the other and one of the distance pieces was slightly shorter than the other. So even though all of the parts were "within spec", I mixed and matched parts and used the shorter distance piece in the narrower hub just because I knew. Pics of the modified calipers are in one of those other threads. Next thought is that one thing I have seen cause problems are raised burrs on the hub machined surfaces caused by pressing a bearing in while not completely square and raising a bump. After that happened, the bump caused some misalignment in the bearings and resulted in rotational binding like you described. So, question would be... Did you have any troubles pressing the bearings in or did they go in smooth, even, and easy from the start? Or did they go in cocked to one side and eventually snap into alignment. Lastly, while a surface grinder *CAN* be a very accurate device for removing material, if someone had messed with the distance piece in the past and screwed up the squareness of the end cuts, slapping it down onto the mag chuck of the grinder and removing a little material won't fix the problem. It will just propagate the error to the new length.

Have you got some pics of what you're working with? And I'm not sure what you mean when you say "they are using the "B" series housing as a baseline." Are you doing the work yourself, or is someone doing it for you?

Dig around on the web for input on this. Engravers have been making indexing fixtures for this sort of thing forever. With a little creativity, I'm sure you can come up with a way to index either the stamp or the target less than the width of the punch shank.

Actually I don't like all the links in the OP's post. Links to a whole bunch of auction sites and pics nabbed from copart. Just joined. One and only one post. And hasn't even responded to all the input from other members about his original post. I'd like the OP to participate in the discussion he started and convince us that he isn't a spammer or a bot.

Haha!! I had to look up the Coffman reference, but it reminded me that it's fiddler crab season!

Boys, keep off the moors. Stick to the roads.

If the battery is tip-top charged, it should be able to run the EFI and ignition for quite some time even without an alternator.

The what? Did you say computer???

Yeah, but I'm not easy.

What he said. You might not have to replace ANY injectors. Have you verified that the issue is inside the injector itself and not something else?

You... Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Us... You know we can still see you, right?

The scammers will just put the scams into a different category instead. One that's still free. The thing that drives me nuts is the four pages of keywords to force ads to get picked up in searches when they shouldn't. People put "Ignore" and then a whole bunch of keywords. Sure... I can ignore them, but my search engine cannot. Effers.

Haha! Well a quick look on the web found the following: Normal Engine Operation At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 17" and 21" HG. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause vacuum to drop below 5" then rebound to 21" or more. http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html So I'm not sure. If a normal engine is supposed to be 18 in-Hg, and calculations indicate you're getting 4 in-Hg instead of 18? A massive intake manifold leak could maybe account for that, but it would be running way lean, not way rich. I'm hoping someone can chime in and show me that I screwed the calculations somehow.

OK... So the more important question. Does it make sense?

I had the video game. For the original Game Boy.

Well those numbers look a lot better than the measurements you were getting with the previous gauge. I'm less concerned with the absolute numbers than the fact that it seems to be reacting to manifold vacuum now. Just changing the gauge shouldn't have had any effect on that, but whatever.... Now it just looks like most other old 280Z's that are running either really rich or really lean because of a whole bunch of interrelated issues like dirty connectors, improperly placed connectors, and vacuum leaks. Back calculations from the pressure differential to calculate what the manifold vacuum is in psi... Do the numbers make sense? With the filler cap on and the engine struggling at 400-500 RPM... Decrease of 2 psi converts to 4 inches of mercury. With the cap off and the mixture more conducive to a smoother and higher idle... Decrease of 4 psi converts to about 8 inches of mercury. Did I do that right, and does it make sense?

LOL! You eeeeeeedddiot!!!

Anything look wrong? I think so. I don't like the looks of the clear silicone blob on the big gear at the 2:00 position. I suspect that blob was originally at the 11:00 position over by the locking screw (hidden by the big silver metal counterweight). If my suspicion is correct, then it looks like someone rotated that gear way leaner (looks like close to 20 teeth) than factory. An indication that they were fighting a severe rich condition and decided (incorrectly) that adjusting the AFM was the way to fix it. That black silicone that was holding the lid on is another indication that someone has been in there poking around. Of course, none of that explains why your fuel pressure is wrong, but it's something that you'll have to look into as well.

No. Not unless it's a three way valve and vent the regulator diaphragm to atmosphere when you move the switch to eliminate the vacuum. In other words, it's possible to do this, but not with your typical two port valve. However... You can use a longer piece of tubing with a curly-loop in it ("pig tail") to make it easier to get on and off for testing. I have found that you can bend the two metal nipples so they aren't pointing exactly at each other and fit a longer piece of tube in there temporarily.

Huh? Someone say cheesesteak??? I've been casually watching the thread, but didn't want to have too many cooks in the kitchen. But since someone promised cheesesteaks... My thoughts are that you guys are getting out in the weeds with the stuff like leaking EGR valves, bent AFM vanes and brake booster issues*. Of course, all that stuff could need some attention too, but I think you need to focus here first: The OP measured his fuel pressure and it was too high. Then he replaced his fuel pressure regulator with a brand new one and it was STILL too high. In fact, the new regulator behaved exactly like the old regulator. That's something that needs to be figured out first and it doesn't sound like it's the regulator. The 40 psi too high with the pump running and the engine off could easily just be gauge error. I'm not too concerned about the difference between 40 and 36 with the engine off, but the second sentence...... "Fuel pressure while idling is 40 psi as well"? The engine will drown at that pressure. So I would pose the question to the collective... Other than a problem with the regulator itself, what could cause the fuel pressure in the rail to be way too high while the engine is running? Return line plugged? Too much static pressure in the tank? *About the weeds... The brakes feel pretty much normal, so there may be some leaking at the booster, but it's not catastrophic. The EGR valve might be stuck open a little and leaking some exhaust past, but that would cause it to run lean, not rich. The AFM vane bent a little wouldn't cause the FPR to be non-responsive. And the water temp switch... The engine is designed to run relatively well with the switch in either position. Just with lower emissions on one position or another depending on the temperature.

Here's the datasheets that I translated earlier. FTX series: FLWX series (that is pretty much the same as the FTX with the exception of the color column:

The majority of info on the FLWX sheet was the same as the FTX so I didn't bother to duplicate the translation. Almost everything on the FLWX datasheet was the same as the FTX, so I didn't bother to do both. About the only thing that was different was the color column, so I did that one and didn't bother duplicating the effort on the rest of the info. Guess I should have made that clear and saved you the trouble. As for the amperage rating, the amperage that it can handle depends (among other things) on ambient temperature and the length of the link. My read on the situation is that datasheet isn't for fusible links. It's for wire designed to be turned into fusible links. That said, I agree... I think they could have specified a typical case based on a fixed length at a specific ambient temperature. Would have made a convenient column to include.

We know what you did last winter.

Well done!!