Captain Obvious

Agreed. (Without the suction piston installed) Put the cover on and put the three screws in but leave them loose enough that the cover can still rotate around the one existing cone nub. See how much play there is. Might be such that with the tolerance of the mounting screws combined with the single nub there might be very little play to worry about. But if you do get energetic... I think all you would need is a steel rod with one end turned to be a precision fit into the hole through the suction piston cover, and the other end turned to be a precision fit into the carb body where the nozzle is installed. Remove the nozzle and then slip the rod into place and then put the chamnber cover on. The precision rod will align all the holes on the same centerline. Put the three screws loosely into place and then use a small syringe to inject epoxy into the alignment nub cavity to cast a new pin in place. I wasn't there at the factory, but I've got a high degree of confidence they did something like that at the factory. You can even see the bubbles in the epoxy material in some of the pins where they didn't get all the air out. That looks like what happened to the intact pin on this body. Looks like a big air inclusion in the epoxy cone: And I wish I could point you in the right direction for that green coating. I've never looked into it. But with as common as it is, I'm sure there's info out there to be dug up.

Well to be clear... Your alignment nub has cracked in half and only HALF the nub is stuck in the chamber cover. The other half is usually still stuck in the carb body, but in your case, it has fallen out somewhere along the way and years. Unfortunate, but not insurmountable. Those two cones provide very accurate alignment of the chamber cover with respect to the center bore where the piston slides up and down and where the needle slides into the nozzle. If that cover is out of alignment, the needle will rub the side of the nozzle hole and wear something (needle, nozzle, or both). You can usually get it aligned relatively well just by feel, especially since you still have one good nubbin. But if you were insane and had too much time on your hands, you would make an alignment tool that would be used to fixture everything in proper alignment and use some epoxy to cast a new alignment nub to replace the broken one. A feat I have not yet needed to resort to. And that green coating? I don't know what it is, but it was commonly used. I last saw that on a late nineties Sentra throttle shaft. At least it looked like the same stuff. Last time I was messing around with the throttle shafts, I took a different route and did this:

Oh, it could absolutely still be bad! Are you confident in one (or more) of the 240 tachs? Why don't you try hooking one of them up to the Goon just to see if you can get the needle to move. In theory, it should work regardless if it's connected to a 510 or a 240.

Agreed. The -2 carbs are certainly better. I don't think they ever got the bugs worked out of the -1 and just bailed. It's hard to come up with a post-mortem engineering analysis as to what happened with the progression from -1 to -2, but if I had to guess it was something like "Ooops! We better change that, and quick!" Couple other comments. First, don't throw away your old float bowl seals. The new ones have a tendency to swell significantly when they come in contact with gasoline (stupid, right?), and you may find yourself wanting to resort back to the old ones and a smear of fuel resistant sealer. So try to carefully pick the old ones out of the grooves without tearing them. Also, don't give up on the throttle shaft bushings just yet... Just because the hole is off center doesn't necessarily mean that it is oval worn. In fact, the bushing in your pic clearly has more steel on one side than the other, but I suspect they were pressed into the body and then line bored and reamed as a final step to assure alignment between the two bushings. And because of that, they may have ended being machined in such a way that the center hole is not concentric with the outside of the bushing. That doesn't matter... All that matters is that the two of them are in alignment with eachother and are in the center of the carb throat. I would expect that even if something is worn some, the steel shaft would wear a whole lot faster than the steel bushing. So if you stick a 10mm rod into the bushing, is it all sloppy like, or is it still a good fit? And about that green coating? I suspect it's a lubricant. So they don't have the sticky brass of the shaft riding on the steel bushing. I wasn't there when they designed it, but I suspect it's meant to be slippy. (That's a mechanical engineering term, isn't it?) And last... Too bad about the broken alignment cone on the suction piston cover below. Is that a test piece just for clean-up and polish, or is that one that you were going to use on the final product?

Nice!! Haha!!

I'm not sure what you're asking here... If you're asking simply how you are supposed to remove the float pin, then you unscrew the cap covering the end of the pin, grab the pin lightly with a pair of needle nose pliers, and slide the pin out of the carb body. If you're asking "I got the cap off the carb body and can SEE the end tip of the float pin, but it's stuck and won't come out. What do I do?" - Then the answer may be found in this recent thread where we were discussing just such an event: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60828-so-were-doing-a-73-restoration-project/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-560533

Well of course there's no guarantee that it would be the same, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was. Have you turned up a schematic of the tach circuitry? I've not looked for such a thing.

Out of curiosity... Why would you go through that effort? What's the advantage?

Love the pic of the NOS nozzle.

Well with nothing similar to compare it to, 40mA (.040A) sounds completely reasonable to me. I've lost the details. Was there a tach installed before? Or are you putting one in where there previously was none? Point is... Do you have a second tach that you could compare against the one from the Goon? Or (being of the same inductive pickup concept and from same manufacturer and close to the same age....) Is there an early 240 tach that you could run the same test on for comparison?

My pleasure. Glad to help. And thanks for the great pictures of how your mirrors work in traffic!

Hi Kats, I'll try my hand at a translation. "Downfalls" means "drawbacks" or "undesirable properties" or "weaknesses". The questioner was trying to determine if there were any problems with mounting the mirrors on the fenders when compared to mounting them on the doors.

I thought the two-part isocyanate activated paints were "urethanes" and different than "epoxy". My (admittedly shallow) understanding is that epoxy paints (while they are also two-part mixes) were different and not nearly as dangerous because they didn't contain isocyanates like the urethanes did. I mean, you don't want to breathe a bunch of any of them but I thought the isocyanates are the real nasty shite that can cause the allergic reaction (asthma).

You're talking about the fuel nozzles: I would not take those out unless there is an indicated reason to do so. Inspect in place... Make sure they are in good shape (not worn or corroded). Make sure they are at the proper depth setting and haven't been messed with in the past. If they are in good shape and are at the proper mixture setting, then I would leave them installed. I wouldn't pull them just to pull them. (However.... If you do decide you need to remove them, let me know as I've got some special tools that makes it easy-peasy. )

Nice work on the flat tops. I'm sure you already know this, but just in case... Make sure whatever cleaning method you employ on the carb bodies does not destroy the original epoxy alignment cone nubbins for the suction piston cover (the "flat" in flat-top). And make sure you keep each carb body, suction piston, and piston cover (the "flat" in flat-top) together as a matched set. They are aligned together using those formed in place epoxy cones and need to be kept together as a trio. And hopefully they haven't been mixed and matched in the past!

Love it!!

Or maybe frying a robot bee! Point is... It shouldn't start and stop as the wire burns back so far that it breaks the arc until it contacts again and starts. It should be a nice steady sizzle. Like frying that bee. This is making me both hungry and wanting to weld something. Is that wrong?

Carnegie Hall is just around the corner. I'm no welder, but one anecdotal piece of advice to me that helped me.... While you're laying down a bead with a MIG, it should sound like frying bacon.

That's right... You guys got hammered in this last storm, didn't you? We got nothing other than a couple clouds. One of those rare storms that goes south of PA and is still cold enough to snow. How does that Bimmer handle in the snow? My basic curiosity question about the seam work your guy is intending to do is... "Is he welding, or is he brazing?" If he whips out a torch (either an O-A rig or a TIG setup) then he's brazing. But if he loads a spool of that silicon bronze wire onto a MIG machine, then I'm not sure what he's doing. He'll know though. In any event, pics or it didn't happen.

That first short run out on the road is a blast isn't it? I remember the first time I took the 260 around the big country block after it had been sitting for so many years. Half ecstatic, and half terrified. Good work on the project so far and hope it continues to come together!

Well don't get me wrong. I'm not questioning any of the decisions about the planned process and it sounds very interesting. I just don't understand it completely. Pics of the process would be cool. (Not that you like to take pics of the work in process or anything! )

What he said. The higher the gauge number, the thinner the metal. If you're having troubles with 16-18 ga, then 20 gauge is going to be even more difficult. Love the practice sheet. I think everyone who ever messed with a welder has one just like that! Out of curiosity... Is that MIG, or flux core?

Thanks for the additional input guys. I will definitely update on experiences when I pull the trigger.

Haha!!

LOL! Yeah, that wire is to run through a MIG. I've never used it, but that's what it's designed for. What isn't clear to me though is exactly the application. I was aware of the process of using silicon bronze being used as a brazing filler, but I never knew it was also used in a welding operation... Especially MIG. (My rudimentary understanding being the basic difference being in brazing, you do not melt the parent materials, but in welding you do melt the parent material.) So in the few cycles of web searching that I did, I saw that silicon bronze MIG wire being used as welding filler when welding copper alloys together. I did not, however, see it being used to "weld" two steel pieces together. So in the end I really don't know what the guy doing the work on five&dime's car is really intending to do on the car, but that's not important as long as he knows. If forced to guess, I was thinking he was going to whip out the torch and braze some silicon bronze into the previously spot welded seams on the chassis and then grind them smoother. The tight seams should encourage a good wick of the brazing material to be sucked into the gap and provide the strength needed to allow reduce the thickness of the materials with the grinder. But that's all speculation on my part. For all I know, he's going to hit it with the MIG with a spool of that bronze wire in it. I'm way beyond my area of expertise.