Captain Obvious

Sounds like textbook fuel percolation.

Yes, that's a correct interpretation. It's just a suggestion for an easy method to determine the difference between 1) a faulty pressure regulator and 2) a regulator that works fine but simply cannot deal with the aftermarket pump is currently paired with (as chickenman suggested). Of course the validity of any of this is dependent on the accuracy of your test equipment (as Zed Head suggested).

I think you should add more detail about what the pressure settles at when you stop the fuel pump. I understand that it'll droop overnight to zero, but the number I'm looking for is five seconds after you stop the pump. Why? Because you said you have 42 psi engine off while the pump is spinning. That's too high. But it's important to see what the pressure does right after the fuel pump stops spinning. If it stays at 42 even with the pump off, then you have a regulator issue. If the pressure snaps down to 36 and holds there when the pump stops, then you're overwhelming the regulator. In other words, the regulator works, but can't handle the volume. It's trying to bleed excess pressure back to the tank, but it can only do that up to a certain volume. Above which, it's full open and can't bleed any more fast enough. That's the issue Chknman suggested. Not sure I said any of that right... Does that make sense?

What does the fuel pressure do when you let go of the key? Does it drop to zero, or does it stay up? And if it does maintain pressure, what pressure does it maintain? Answers to those questions could help determine if the FPR is being overwhelmed or if something else is going on.

Excellent. Glad it was that simple. Don't forget about an alignment before you call it "done".

Wow. An offer to refund without even any prompting whatsoever. Now that's customer service. I wish some of the people who had sold me unusable parts would have done that. Most of them just disappear after I have expressed displeasure. I hope good karma shines brightly on you both.

Haha! I like it!

So you had mentioned before that agitating the liquid in the tanks was advantageous as well. Are you going to circulate the fluid through the filter at the same time you are plating a workpiece? Or clean the tanks first and then plate a batch?

Also, I don't believe you ever mentioned the year of the car, but I'm guessing 73 or 74 and it appears to have had a flat-top to round-top modification. And with that in mind, your throttle linkage between the two round top carbs is not correct and does not fit right. It's too short. Note how the ball is almost completely slipping out of the rear carb linkage in your pic. That's because the linkage between the two carbs is too short.

I figured out what's the deal with the damper stalks. The "normal looking" one is from your typical 240 round top carb. The other "top hat shaped" one (with the protuberance) is from a 73or 74 flat top carb that your PO has "repurposed" to use in one of your round tops. Problem with this plan however, is the damper stalks or the flat top carbs are longer than the ones for the round tops and will bottom out if you try to do this. So your PO punched the damper rod out the top of the cap to shorten the effective length and be able to use it on the round top carb. Then it appears he applied epoxy to attempt to seal the rod and lock it in place. So, the cap has been punched through, but what I said before about it happening accidently was incorrect. It appears to be an INTENTIONAL misuse. Mother of invention and all that... Also explains the different fill level markings.

Funky different caps. Is the lower one glued together from multiple pieces? Are they both plastic?

I don't have a lot of input that would be valuable, but want to wish you luck with this project. I don't think I ever even tested my defroster, but I assume it doesn't work. My relay clicks. but I assume all or most of my traces have gone open circuit. Anyway, about the only thing I could add is I have worked quite a bit with membrane keyboards in the past (as a user) and they use lots of silver conductive ink keyboard applications. Silkscreened and cured (either heat or UV cured) after screening. It's durable enough that the keyboards don't smear the material around in the contact area.

It's a plan!

Calibrated builder's eyes!

That's a cool idea. I remember we talked about activated charcoal and it's application in the plating realm, but I never thought it could be a simple as a fridge filter!

I have some input. First, a little more detail about the PCV tube... One of the PCV valve's jobs is to meter the amount of air being pulled out of the crankcase, so it's not unmetered. It's reversed direction from the way it came from the factory, but only time will tell if that's acceptable or not. The wire tie on the throttle linkage is necessary because a PO has removed the "throttle opener" device. It's an emissions thing that reduces emissions during deceleration by holding the throttle open a tiny amount. With that device removed, the linkage connection point for it is loose and flopping around on the linkage. That wire just keeps it from flopping loose. It's ugly, but doesn't really cause a problem. The "right" way to fix it would be to reinstall a throttle opener system. As for the rod sticking out of the damper knob on the front carb? My guess is that's the end of the rod that is supposed to be pressed into the plastic on the underside of the cap. I suspect it has punctured all the way through and is now sticking out the top of the plastic cap. "How does such a thing happen?" You might ask... It can happen with a front fire rapidly causing a high pressure inside the intake manifold (probably caused by a lean running condition). That high pressure burst tries to rapidly push the suction piston up, but (just like they're supposed to do) the jiggly bits on the damper stalk try to slow the piston's upward rise. However, in this case, the explosion wins, the damper can't get out of the way fast enough, and the stalk blows out the top of the plastic cap.

Cool! The valve looks great. Don't forget to do a safety margin pull test on it. And can I borrow that fixture when you're done with it?

I was just into this area of my 77 (same as 78), and after being in there... I would say "Yes, but I think it will be a pain in the butt". Getting to the hardware is possible, but finicky. And I worry about damaging the springy horn contact. With pulling the steering wheel being so easy, I would just remove it. It's just so much easier.

And don't forget... Speaking of cars, of course:

Hi Kats, Does the plastic reservoir bottle accept the same kind of cap? I saw pictures with a white plastic cap, but I didn't see anything with a metal pressure relief cap installed on the plastic bottle. And also, have you confirmed that the plastic reservoir bottle was designed to contain the pressure involved?

CO2 is a clear colorless gas.

Wait... Nothing stupid?? Nothing? Am I supposed to live in a plastic bubble of good judgment for the next month?? I was supposed to go for a run with scissors today. Well that narrows it down some. I put Fiero seats in mine and it wasn't easy. I didn't have to bash the hump on the floor (BTW - it's for the catalytic converter on such equipped models), but I had all the same mounting issues. Not an easy project.

Looking forward to it greatly!!! Can't wait Bud!

Of course, that was when he let me get into his car and took me on a tour of the local brewpubs...

I've personally witnessed questionable judgment on his part.