Captain Obvious

Yes, both sender analog, and an on-off for the fuel pump. I didn't look anything up in any manuals, but anecdotal data says the switch should close over 4 psi. Here's a page with some info about the sender units. Note that 87 and earlier is different than 88, but I think it's mechanical differences only. Electrical they are the same 84-88. http://web.archive.org/web/20151002182213/http://home.comcast.net/~fierocave/oilsender.htm

Do you think the plastic would hold up to powder coat temps? @wheee! had some pretty impressive results with the chrome powder coat. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=66&tab=comments#comment-535792 And for the outer black portion... I was messing with one of them today as well. Not as impressed with the results as I had hoped, but I have two more things to try tomorrow. If I'm lucky, I may have a good option for you then?

Wait... I got an idea. How about we get a monkey to sit in the driver's seat of one of those driverless cars? That would work, right? Can monkeys use smart phones?

Actual testing would be awesome. I'm just operating off anecdotal and uncontrolled data. When I get a chance, I'll try to whip up a sketch or two showing why I contend the CV carbs would be less finicky than other designs.

That part of the HVAC system was evolving and changing a lot through those years. I think factory installed A/C started in 74 with the 260, and in that year they had the fresh air floor vent pull knobs on both sides. They pulled the air in at the front of the fender frame channels through those plastic ducts on both sides. Sounds like 75 and early 76 had the accordion vent and fresh air floor vent on just the passenger side. They still pulled air in through the right side frame channel, but only the right side. For 77, they had redesigned much of the sheet metal, including the frame channels and the cowl area where the windshield wiper motor lives. So for 77, they went back to fresh air pull knobbies on both sides, but they pulled the air from inside the cowl area instead of through the frame channels. Just another reason why the 77 is the best year.

LOL! You guys are the best!

Sounds like my Sunday... Or was that Monday? Probably both! You ever seen the problem solving flow-chart? Good luck with the project. I don't remember... Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top? If they're all the way through, you could potentially get some penetrant onto the threads from the underside.

The Webers aren't constant velocity.. The venturi vacuum is all over the place with those depending on throttle position and air flow. With the SU carbs, you have constant-ish, predictable venturi vacuum, even at idle.

That pic threw me at first as well. But if you blow it up to full size and look carefully just to the right of injector connector #3, you can see the cut ends of the wires from the rear bank of three. The way they are laying in the pic makes it look like it's a full harness of six (as it was intended), but it's actually two smaller harnesses of three injectors each. And as for the AAR, that's probably red 5/8 heater hose. The original hose turned to rock and crumbled to dust, so they replaced it with some heater hose of similar size. Not that I've ever done such a thing....

This thread seems to indicate that it wasn't just the 77 and 78 cars that had that snorkel:: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60231-76-280z-complete-fuel-injection-sys-more/

I'm no carb expert, but that is my contention. I do not believe the absolute fuel level is as critical as many people believe it to be It is my contention that the majority of the pressure drop occurs at the needle restriction, and not much caused by the different height of the fuel. What is the psi reading at the bottom of a 2 mm tall column of fuel?

I've got one just like that. 2.0 stamped on the side, and the Hitachi logo. Just one in a box of assorted round top parts. I've got way more flat top parts than I do round top. Surprised?

LOL! I go off-line for a couple days and come back to this? I appreciate the accolades, but I fear you guys give me waaaaay too much credit! Blind squirrel and all that...

That doesn't look like it got wet to me. Just looks like old non-sealed electronics IMHO. And if it's dead, I wouldn't bother trying to troubleshoot. They're easy enough to find used still working, and failing that, there are aftermarket options. How's this for a litmus test... Even I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to fix one of those. And the reason your wipers work slow is probably a completely mechanical issue. Crud and rust in the linkage, especially where the wiper stalks poke out of the cowl area up to the glass.

I measured the overall height at about 21.5 inches (+/- .25 inch for parallax error). I uploaded a couple pics. Measuring the height: Here it is snug as a bug in the back of my 77: And (as embarrassing as it is...) here's a pic of it on the car when I did a short test run to make sure it actually worked:

Perfect. That's exactly what you're looking for. Good luck with the Toyota brakes. I don't know anything at all about them.

I agree with the above. Sad to see such an iconic Z looking like that. OK... Experiment over. Rust works in Canada. Now build yourself a bigger garage, eh?

I was (half) joking about it coming back again in the future. It's an old engineering adage taught to me by one of my mentors that if you have not positively confirmed the root cause of the failure, then it's likely to come back again. Here's to hoping that's not the case here!

Great! So you confirmed that leaving the distance piece out won't provide the proper bearing preload? About the grease seal rubbing, we did the same thing here with the first one. Didn't press it in far enough and it was rubbing some against the back of the yoke. Easy fix. So were you able to ever get confirming distance measurements off the second hub before you put it together? Or once you saw that everything was "B" length, you just went for it? In any event, I'm glad you got them together and feeling good. I bet you're happy that's over!

You are absolutely right!! I thought of it this afternoon while walking around at the junkyard, but couldn't post until now. Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Sex But Were Afraid To Ask Remember Tony Randall and Burt Reynolds in that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM3fglmaRrA

Here's the summary. Do any of you 280 guys who converted to triples or cable linkage have this part laying around left over? Here's a pic of the part needed. This part of the linkage off a 280Z:

My local Nissan dealer seems as though they couldn't care less whether I exist or not. At this point, I try to never go in there. No discount off full retail, and no understanding that I sometimes might even know what I'm talking about.

I think that is OSHA required safety gear while you are in the Orgasmatron:

If connected and working properly, the system is supposed to store the vapors in the can with the engine off, and then pull them out of the can and burn them when the engine is running. In theory, the carbon canister is supposed to be a temporary holding vessel and you are supposed to empty it ("purge") when you run the engine. However, I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the emptying process is never 100% complete and it could eventually saturate over the years. I haven't looked into it, but that wouldn't surprise me. Is that what happens?

@Patcon Over in this completely unrelated thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60181-cleaning-the-filter-on-the-carbon-canister/ The subject of activated carbon came up, and as a result, I found this on Wikipedia: "Industrial application: One major industrial application involves use of activated carbon in metal finishing for purification of electroplating solutions. For example, it is a main purification technique for removing organic impurities from bright nickel plating solutions. A variety of organic chemicals are added to plating solutions for improving their deposit qualities and for enhancing properties like brightness, smoothness, ductility, etc. Due to passage of direct current and electrolytic reactions of anodic oxidation and cathodic reduction, organic additives generate unwanted breakdown products in solution. Their excessive build up can adversely affect plating quality and physical properties of deposited metal. Activated carbon treatment removes such impurities and restores plating performance to the desired level." Here's the URL for the page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activated_carbon I never knew any of that, and filtering used solution through activated charcoal filter might help with what you're doing?