Captain Obvious

Well if you just put in almost an thousand miles in a road-trip and the only thing that went wrong was that your condensate drain leaked, I'd say you're doing pretty good! RCB, the drain tube is right below the HVAC assembly. A little left of center, like below the temperature control slider. There's a piece of rubber tubing attached to the evaporator box, and there's supposed to be a grommet in the transmission tunnel. The tube fits snug into the grommet and directs the water to the ground instead of the interior of the car.

Gotcha. Sorry, but I don't have anything other than that. Good luck on the hunt. Out of curiosity... Do you still have your original 73? If so, you could use that one as an example of what to do?

Mark, I'm not sure what document you're looking for, but this one has some fuel rail insulation instructions in it. Is this what you're looking for? http://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/60-fuel-system-modification-plus-73-74/

Some Z trivia for ya... Depends on the year. They changed how those vents worked on the later cars and they don't use that channel as an air duct anymore. 77 on, they pulled the fresh air from the cowl area instead of using those channels.

No... I'm sure the car has at least 30K smiles. I've got over 100K and I'm still smiling.

Oh, and in the later speedos, the space available for a 100K digit is taken up by the wire that detects the ten mph threshold for things like the BCDD. Prior to 73 or so, there wasn't anything there, but after that, I don't think that space is as available as it was on the earlier units.

Yup. They're all like that. Even through the ZX. I suspect they ported major portions of the design from an earlier application that didn't have a trip odometer and they didn't want to mess with the design, so they just left the tenths digit in there. And then they were worried about synchronization between the tenths digit of the trip odo and the tenths digit of the main odometer. They didn't want all the service calls asking "Why don't the two of them agree?"

Yeah, the rockers that Hoover posted are definitely cast. You can see the mold part line and everything. Although, in my search travels I did turn up some pics of some carved versions (that were supposedly made by the same guy). Found those here: http://www.datsunparts.com/1162 My plan was to tempt Blue just enough that he couldn't resist anymore and found the motherlode of the cast versions.

I did a quick fresh search and came up with the following (unverified) tidbits: From https://www.ishcc.org/VA/Charlottesville/malvern-racing-inc: Malvern Racing Inc Phone: (434) 971-9668 271 Malvern Farm Dr Charlottesville, VA 22903-7440 From http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0906-this-guys-garage/ Dave Weber Martinsville, VA From http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24873-need-cam-springs-valves-and-rockers/ Yeah - Malvern Racing >> Dave Weber was a great engine builder/fabricator/machinist in rural Virginia south of DC. He was well known among east coast Datsun/Nissan racers and was a prolific cam grinder. Dave died several years ago, so anything Malvern is NLA. Get it while ya can! So I'm guessing that's the guy, but it also seems that the prospect of finding more of those rockers is out of the question unless someone who bought them a while ago is selling them off.

There's a town near me named Malvern, and when I first saw these rockers, I dug around a little trying to find out more about their origin. Unfortunately I came up blank. So I don't even know if the "Malvern" they reference is the town near me, or something or somewhere else. Your google-foo is strong... You can't find more info than that? It wasn't that long ago.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I was guessing that they just couldn't expect the metal to stretch enough to make them in one shot, and the tooling would have been too complicated anyway, so they split up the assembly into multiple parts.

Wrong parts in the box... Glad it was that easy. I saw my notes on this swap go by the other day and I'll go back and have another look. I do know that the charge light should work. And, more importantly, the current through the bulb should be providing the bootstrap current for the internally regulated alternator to work. Most times it'll still work without it, but there is the slim possibility that it won't. I'll refresh my memory on the details.

Nice work on the cabinet! So do you think the results are different than straight up glass bead blasting?

If I ever get my car painted, I'm going to weld the sugar scoops to the fenders to make them one piece. I've seen a couple people do that and I really like it.

Rebuild, right? They probably forgot to put the piston seal in. Don't laugh... I've seen it. Not on a Z, but I've seen it.

Good luck, and I hope its that simple. I'm thinking there should be a pretty low resistance measured across the two horn wires coming out of the assy. I bet the working horn is a pretty low, and the non-working one is open circuit for some reason. Could be those contacts, or it could be elsewhere.

Wow... Look at the time. I need to head to the beer fridge now! Mine draws 3.2 AAC.

Well I've never held an early tach with my own two hands, so this is mostly engineering speculation, but I would go something like this... The early tachs ran the coil current to the tach. And (now that I've seen that picture), I would surmise that they used an inductive pickup for the tach to sense the ignition pulses. Just like the inductive pickup on your timing light. It senses current that flows through a wire, and just like your timing light, it does that by wrapping a "sensor" around the wire your interested in. Also the same as your clamp-on ammeter you use for house wiring to measure the current being drawn by your beer fridge. So that thing on the back of the tach is the inductive pickup, and the white wire running through it is the one being sensed. So now the real guessing starts... I'm guessing that the inductive pickup on the back of the tach is relatively cheap and prone to crosstalk and/or wave shape. I'm thinking that there may have been some crosstalk from the portion of the wire NOT looped through the sensor that was messing with the sensing of the wire that WAS looped trough the pickup. So by moving the loop of wire farther away from the pickup, it reduced the crosstalk or changed the wave shape just enough that the tach likes is better. Kinda hard to do that kind of analysis with no parts like that here though. Could be totally off, but until someone has something better......

And just because those contacts LOOK closed, are you sure you're getting electrical contact across them? Maybe drag a piece or paper between them to clean up the contacts a little?

I haven't been inside one of those, but I bet there should be no gap and those contacts should be closed. I'm assuming those contacts will open and close rapidly when power is applied to the horn and the oscillation of those contacts is what makes it BEEP. Or at least that's how it's supposed to work. The pressure on the contacts is what is controlled by the pitch adjustment screw and determines how hard those contacts are pressed together. That pressure will change the frequency at which they open and close, and that changes the pitch of the horn. If you have an Ohmmeter... What resistance do you get across the horn? And how about the other one (that works).

Haha! I bet they were pina colada or mango flavor too! So was it shaved ice, or popsicles? So this thread... It's a beautiful car up on wood stands, and we've spend almost the entire page talking about the stands. "Send pic of boat and motor." or "Yeah, but a talking frog is cool.” How about "Good choice. The clothes probably wouldn't have fit."

I would just use stock-style rotors. I believe you can get them from Rockauto.

Within reason*, I don't think the weight load really matters. As implemented above, the wood is all strictly in compression. So as long as the planks are larger than the jack stand feet (with margin above that for side-to side stability), the dimensions of the wood are pretty much immaterial. As long as you can draw a line straight down from the jack stand feet to the concrete and never pass through any air, those stacks should all be in compression. And for reference, I believe what's used in those pics is 2x6's (1.5 x 5.5). All that said, be safe and don't try this with a stack of 10,000 popsicle sticks. *Assuming you aren't putting enough compression load on it to explode the wood out the sides. Like tons and tons.

Yeah, that could be a problem. As drawn, it is entirely possible that resistance(s) of the filaments is so low that they may pass enough current to actuate your relay sometimes when you don't want it to actuate. Namely, when the headlights are off. When the headlights are turned on, what you have drawn will work fine. But when the headlights are turned OFF and your driving light switch is turned ON, you may pull enough relay current through the headlight filaments to actuate your relay. I don't think it would be enough current to be visible in the form of even a dim glow at the headlights, but it would probably be enough to close your relay. The way to combat that would be to connect the high side of your actuation switch to the switched headlight power instead of directly to the battery. If you connected the right side (as drawn in your sketch) of your driving light switch to either the Red or Red/Yellow (either one will work) wires heading out to the headlights, then that will take care of that issue. Or you could use it as a "feature" to be able to turn the driving lights on without the headlights. Even though it's not the way things are supposed to work.

Agreed. That's better and should work fine.